TheWineCommander

The  Wine Table, founded in 1927, meets every Wednesday in the upstairs Mural Room  at Melbourne restaurant institution Grossi Florentino. On 5 December it celebrated it’s 4000th lunch. Putting it into prospective members have consumed more than 37,000 bottles of red wine from all over the world! It is believed to be the longest running wine group in the world spanning 91 years.

Immediate Past President and notable historian Jed White foreground with curent President Graham Alderman

The Wine Table was formed in 1927 at Cafe Denat which became Cafe Florintino and then meandered to Luccattini Restaurant, La Maschera, The Kingston Hotel before returning to Grossi Florintino in 2010.
Jed White who is The Table’s historian was the only current member to attend the 3000th meeting in March 1999 recalls a 1982 Chateau La Lagune, 1991 D’Arenberg Ironstone pressings Shiraz, a 1996 Rymill Shiraz and vintage port of course among others. Since 1983 Jed has recorded every wine consumed.
President Graham Alderman meticulously emails the 20 plus members each week with the theme for the following Wednesday based on a pre-determined quarterly list. Members attend with a masked bottle and then over lunch they individually try each others bottle, discuss and assess it’s grape variety, age and origin before its revealed. 
Membership is by personal invitation by existing members and I am privileged to have been invited by Jed.

So lets get down to business and look at some of the favorite wines bought by members for this special occasion.

2003 Mt Pleasant Elizabeth Semillon
Deep golden, hints of lemon, aniseed and tropical fruit, still vibrant with hints of toast. beautiful. 95/100
2009 Rockford Basket press Shiraz. Magnum.
Expansive nose, hot sweet red fruit,  rich and textured palate but finished dry on back palate, Not sure if decanting would have helped, drink+5 yrs, 90/100,

2010 Mt Mary Cabernet Quintet
Fruit well integrated with  cherry and blackberries on the nose. Well balanced with hints of tobacco, fine tannins and  good length.  95/100
1992 Mt Mary Cabernet Quintet
Showed age with fading colour, stewed fruit overtones, fruit just hanging in, but short on length and balance. 85/100
2005 Wild Duck Creek Shiraz – magnum
Intense nose of licorice and sweet fruits. Great palate rich, long and sweet almost not unlike port. Would have benefited with decanting though. Outstanding. drink +10. 96/100
2012 Chateau La Fleur-Petrus, Pomerol
Dark and dense chocolate, mint, nose of  black cherry, lingers on the palate, I loved this wine with long smooth length and beautiful balance, drink +20, 97/100
2008 Bremerton Old Adam Shiraz
Brick color, big and full lush dark intense fruits, subtle oak leads to sweet long finish. Drink +10. 94/100
1998 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
Every serious cellar has Bin 389 and this was in an era when it was affordable. Browning colour with residual purple at the core. A ripe nose loaded with dark fruits, blackberry and plum. Beautiful balanced full bodied palate driven from the back palate. The length was fantastic. Kept changing in the glass. Built to last another 10 yrs. 96/100
2000 Cyril Henschke Cabernet/Merlot/Franc
Ruby colour. Nose of blueberry and raspberries. Palate very clean and balanced with soft tannins. Great length. Loved it! Drink + 3 yrs. 96/100
2007 Balnaves The Tally Reserve Cabernet
Deep consistent colour to the rim. Nose dominated by mint and plums. Loads of fruit but a little thin but constant fruit rhythm throughout on the palate. Lovely drinking and still time. Drink + 5 yrs. 96/100
1998 Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvigon
Sensational! This was first made in 1982 by winemaker John Wade. It cost $12 per bottle but bare in mind Black Label was $5.50. Now Black Label sells for $28 and John Riddoch $150!
Classic Coonawarra, with lovely aromas of sweet cassis. tobacco and eucalyptus leaping out. Deep constant colour, full rich fruit with spice, eucalyptus and plums. Lingering finish. and balanced along the palate. Tasting highlight. Try again 2020. 97/100
2012  Houghton C W Ferguson Cabernet Malbec, Swan Valley
Overloaded with blackberry and blackcurrant on the nose which showed through with hints of plum dominating the palate. Lovely balance and quality oak influence. Long and still youthful. Most of you probably do not know this quality Swan Valley blend from Houghton but worth seeking out. Drink to 2022. (96/100.
 1976 Redman Cabernet Sauvigon Magnum
Browned off. Stewed stale fruit, well over. Flag job
1974 Grange Hermitage
One of the most difficult vintages in memory for Max Schubert. Rigorous grape selection saw one of the smallest Grange yields on record – only 2300 cases.
I think this example suffered from poor cellaring as the Grange characteristics were sadly missing. Was thin and disjointed slight layer of coffee. Pity for a gem from a difficult year.
1999 Grange Hermitage
As expected one of the highlights of this special day. Colour was dense ruby/purple to the edge, with a bouquet of blackberries, mulberries and floral-like aromas. Medium to full body with plenty of  punch,  also wonderful dark fruit and rich extract. Elegant and nicely balanced. Yum. Is it worth $800 plus? Connoisseurs will say yes! 98/100
1975 Chateau Coutet Barsac 1st Growth cru Sauternes
A blend of Sémillon (75 5%), Sauvignon Blanc (23%) and Muscadelle (2%). The wine showed aromas of citrus, tropical fruits, and honey. But I found it high in residual sugar. The palate provided orange overtones and grape fruit. Finish was enjoyable and lingering with the citrus overtones. Drink +3yrs. 96/100

It was getting late in the afternoon and as there were two tables of 10 I did not get to try these other gems.
2009 Katnook Estate Prodigy Shiraz
A 2010 Bordeaux Grand Cru
2012 Penfolds St Henri
2001 Jamiesons Run Rothwell Cabernet Sauvignon
2013 Clonakilla Shiraz Voignier
1995 McWilliams Eileen Hardy Shiraz Magnum

So there you are. I will make every effort to make the 5000th tasting!

Hi Blog subscribers

Thank you for the many esquires as to when you will receive more news, tasting notes and features on what is happening in the world of wine.
My apologies for not keeping in touch but I have been indisposed and unable to access my computer.
However that is about to end and thank you for your patience.
The next feature will (among others) focus on a 4000th consecutive Wednesday lunch club which will be held in early December. The Wine Table started in 1927 and has been going strong every Wednesday since then. Each member has been asked to bring a special bottle for the celebration lunch so lets see what they come up with!

In the meantime you may wish to access articles such as:

A six part feature on Wynns Coonawarra and  tasting notes on every Black Label Cabernet 1954 – 2016.

The 2018 MW exam paper revealed

Spotlight on Central Otago pinot noir
…..and lots more.

Simply go to www.winecommander.net to read all the features.

Thank you for waiting

Cheers for now
The Wine Commander

In part 5 of this series, the tasting notes of vintages between 1976 – 1996 were posted. In this final segment I hope you have a vintage between 1998 – 2015. If so, this and previous  tasting notes in part’ s 4 and 5 will be an invaluable guide when to drink. (scores are out of 100).

Look for years you have in your cellar.

1998
What a wine!  Beautifully perfumed, florals, mint/choc notes.  Black cherries.  Balanced, complex, supple, and seamless. This is a complete wine that is drinking exquisitely at the moment but has a long future ahead of it.  Endless finesse. What a cracker! 97

1999
After such a stunner, the ’99 had much to live up to.  It did well but was not in the same class.  A little more advanced than the ’98, offering truffles and a smoky note.  Tobacco leaf and dark fruits.  A little more forward than perhaps expected, but drinking well at the moment. 93

2000
At first glance, this does seem a little more of a low-key style, but it has everything you’d want.  Some complexity, with its animal skin, dark berry, and warm earth tones.  Fungal and beef-stock characters emerge on the palate.  Seemed more advanced than many of the 90’s.  Good length, though it could possibly benefit from a fraction more intensity on the finish.   Overall one to enjoy.  92

2001
Florals and a little leafiness.  Cassis, spices, and tobacco leaf.   A classic Cabernet profile.  Are we moving away from the 90’s here with fuller-bodied and more powerful wines?  If so, it’s a direction that suits Coonawarra Cabernet.  More elegant, and a lovely flick of aniseed on the end.  93

2002
A very cool vintage saw the return of that leafiness but some black-olive and cocoa notes too.  Quite austere, and it did fade quite quickly.  Attractive but unable fully to overcome the vintage. 88

2003
Another vintage where a little more could have been expected.  Riper, but it lacks the definition of the best.  Some black jellybean notes.  Soft and supple tannins, quite fine.  Dark berries and those appealing cocoa flavors as well.  It faded a little, which came as a bit of a surprise.  88

2004
This was the first wine that gave the impressions of youth.  A hint of blackberries and animal-skin notes.  The move to more medium-bodied, elegant wines does seem to have allowed some of that dry herb character to emerge, but it is kept well in check here.  Good complexity and balance.  Fine tannins and, the pick of the decade so far.  An exciting future.  95

2005
A more approachable and easy-to-drink style than many at this stage.  Soft and slightly broader on the opening.  Not the formal structure offered by the better wines; it might not be classical in style, but it is drinking nicely.  Silky tannins.  With time in the glass, more of the herbal notes emerged, and the finish became a little harder.  89

2006
This really did give the impression of being a young wine, notwithstanding having a decade under its belt.  Lovely black-cherry notes and some fresh kid leather.  Seamless and finely balanced. but one kept coming back to the impeccable balance.  Really good length and a future as exciting as any.  Stunning stuff, one of the best of all.  97

2007
A surprise.  It was the supple texture of this wine that made one sit up and take notice.  Leather and herbs, but black fruits dominate. Think of really rich chocolate icing on a chocolate mud cake.  Good acidity. A wine that lingers well.  92

2008
A fantastic vintage. An array of flavors, notably dark fruits, but there is a whiff of raspberries swirling around in there as well.  Oak is evident, but it is integrating very well.  Cigar-box and mulberry notes.  Lots of tannins, but they melt away.  Balance and impressive length, with coiled power underneath. One for the future,  96

2009
A meaty note here, with a slightly dry, dusty character.  Mulberries and cherries.  Some aniseed.  Fine tannins, this is mid-length at best, and in the glass it faded a little earlier than expected.  88

2010
Another magic vintage; another magic wine.  Hints of purple.  It is still, not surprisingly, a little backward and closed but powerful, intense and one for the ages.  The flavors are all black!  Blackberries, black cherries, and black jellybeans.  Some leather and dry herbs and oak still evident.  The purity of the fruit is compelling.  Silky tannins and a very, very long finish.  96

2011
In decades past, there probably wouldn’t have been a Black Label, but a little was made this year.  Much lighter and more dilute, with some raspberry, spice and soy evident.  Pokey acidity and a little firm on the finish, but better than it had had any right to be. Avoid.  88

2012
The even years do it again.  Another stellar vintage and a wine to match.  Reds and purples in the color.  Very expressive nose.  Beautifully aromatic.  Cassis and cedar, dark chocolate and old leather.  Good acidity, all components well balanced.  A powerful Cabernet, set for a long and thrilling life.  95

2013
Color is again full of reds and purples.  Flavors roll through plums, chocolate cake, leather and dark berries.  Still plenty of oak evident.  Deceptive amount of tannins. Needs a lot of time and a wine that, while showing considerable promise, one would expect to show even better in 10 years time. 95

2014
Color of purples and blacks.  Bright fruit aroma, with mulberries to the fore.  Black cherries and chocolate. An exuberant style that is still extremely youthful.  A seamless supple texture and those silky tannins that are such a hallmark of the better Black Labels.  Very fine, very long.  This promises greatness.  95

2015
A world-class bargain.  Black fruits here, chocolate, blackberries, and violets.  Still very young.  It is not as expressive as the 2014, still tight and coiled, but it is seamless, and the oak is already showing considerable integration.  Very fine tannins and striking length.  Lingers nicely. Will be a star.  95

2016
Medium deep crimson. Beautiful blackcurrant, black plum aromas with violet, dark cherry aromas and underlying toasty oak nuances. Superb cassis, black plum flavours, inky textures., vanilla oak complexity and vinosity. A brilliant wine with all the hallmarks of a great vintage and reflecting the Coonawarra terroir at its best. says  Andrew Caillard MW. 96

I hope you enjoyed this special 6 part series on Coonawarra and Wynns Coonawarra Black label Cabernet. My grateful thanks to Ken Gargett, the  Wine Spectator and Wynns tasting panels.

DO YOU HAVE A YEAR THAT YOU WANT TO TELL OUR BLOG FOLLOWERS ABOUT?

Leave a comment please.

In Part 4 of this series on Wynns Coonawarra Black Label Cabernet we reviewed the tasting notes of vintages between 1954 – 1975.

Look for years you have in your cellar.

Now how did the vintages 1976 -1996 stack up? Refer to the notes of vintages you have in your cellar. Scores are out of 100.

1976
Coonarwarra’s first Jimmy Watson Trophy and hence wine of considerable renown.  The nose is perfumed, with floral and lavender bath salt hints.  The palate follows with more fleshy, cedary, truffley notes. Very soft tannins, reasonable length.  Good acidity behind it.  Another wine that continued to improve in the glass. 95

1977
The one disappointing vintage from the back half of the decade.  The first time those green, herbaceous, capsicum characters dominated, Also a little earthiness.  Not a happy wine.  Some oak poking through, no great length, and a sour-nettle note on the finish.  Past

1978
A vintage, like a few that follow, that should have been ideal, but sadly had that was green, lean, and mean. It is a wine that must surely have had more promise than it has achieved.  Some noticeable oak elbows through, along with hints of chocolate, coffee, and cedar.  Fine tannins, but no real length. One could expect a little more from a 40-year-old Coonawarra Cab from a good year. Past

1979
Welcome to the Green Machine.  Herbaceous, lean capsicum notes, tomato leaf.  No real complexity or length.  Fades away. A wine of its time.  Past

1980
A horrible nose: green peas, herbaceous notes, asparagus, but it is a wine in a holding pattern and seems likely to remain so for many years. One feels that there might be some attractive characters underneath that are attempting to emerge but have little chance of doing so.  An abrupt, hard finish. Past 

1981
Some dry herbals, and certainly it offers less of that extreme green of the previous few wines.  A little lean and un forthcoming.  Some dark fruits as well.  It is a little hollow in the middle and a bit grippy on the finish.  Tannins do protrude.  Nicest thing one can say is that this is better than the 1980.  86

1982
This is the New World, and we have left the green doldrums in our wake.  So much more attractive.  Cassis, chocolate, hints of mint, classic Coonawarra.  A little tomato- bush note, but it does no more than add complexity. A supple, creamy texture.  Excellent balance and intensity. A lovely wine that got better in the glass. 95

1983
The dreaded ”biblical vintage”: fires, floods, tornadoes and general pestilence,  A wine,   that should never have been as good as it is.  A slightly austere and unforgiving style, with a firm texture, dark fruits, and an oyster-shell character, grippy tannins, indeed, a little too firm all around.One feels that it will exist in this state for many more years.  It is drinkable, but not in the pleasure-giving style of the 1982.  88

1984
This, is the return of the herbals.  Just when you thought it was safe to go back to your glass…Asparagus, vegetal, and green notes. Possibly some more pleasurable flavors within, but why bother trying to find them?  Too difficult.  Disappointing lack of length.  This could have, should have, been so much better. Past  

1985
An immediate impression of mild chocolate, followed by raisin, prune and Christmas cake.  Plenty of expressive dark fruits on the nose.  Focus and length.  The acidity has become slightly pokey, but overall not bad for a 30-year-old wine. 90

1986
A wine from a much-lauded vintage. There was lots to like. Some herbal, nettle characters came through early.  It still had bags of life and was quite fresh, with generosity and weight.  Cedar, choc, truffle notes, but just a little too much of the herbals had taken over.  Fine acidity, a little grip, and decent length, though perhaps not the extent it once offered, and it fell away.  A little mint crept in at the finish.  Certainly a very good and thoroughly enjoyable wine.  92

1987
An ordinary year and a wine I really disliked.  Oxidation?  VA?  Some dark berry and earthy, cedary notes but a sour, horrible, and hard palate. Excessive mint notes. Past

1988
After a couple of disappointments, this was one of the great wines. An absolute cracker.  Dark berries, black cherries.  Choc-mint notes, cassis, truffles.  Seamless, elegant, intensive, and with great length.  Impressive complexity and fine balance, the finish lingering with intent.  96

1989
If any wine of this decade (along with the ’83) had a right to struggle, this was it.  A very poor year, yet the wine far surpasses the vintage.  Black olives, cloves, blood-pudding notes, spices, some oak, but it is all neatly tied up.  There is plenty of acidity, and one wonders if it will retain balance. 90 

1990
If any decade should have sent the blood rushing, this must surely be it.  Many famous vintages throughout, perhaps none more so than this one.  The decade also features two “doubles “ – 1990 and 1991, 1998 and 1999, and there has always been much debate about which of each pair was the superior year. This had some gamey animal-hide notes, a little mint lingering, oriental spices, cloves, black olives and dark chocolate.  Quite dense.  Powerful.  Very fine tannins and neatly balanced.  A beautiful, elegant Cabernet. 94 

1991
As mentioned, the best of this extensive tasting.  Coffee bean, mint chocolate, soy sauce.  Elegance personified.  Perfumed, seamless, intense, balanced, and complex.  The silkiest of tannins and good acidity.  A complete wine.  Very, very long finish.  Immaculately  placed for future glory.  Surely one of the great Coonawarra Cabernets.  98

1992
How do you follow that pair?  Sadly, with a cold and unhappy vintage.  Licorice, herbal notes, furry skin characters.  A burly, slightly clunky style, without much length and not really in balance.  Pleasant flavors but not enough to save it.  87

1993
Dry herbs, florals, a foresty note, but a pleasing ripeness.  Notable acidity here.  Firm tannins.  It has a foursquare structure, though it seems to have yielded a little in the time between events.  A solid effort that will be around for many years.  One we probably have not seen the best of yet.  89

1994
Black fruits, dark chocolate notes. Firm, solid, with good intensity.  Some oak.  A mid-length wine.  A good, not great, Black Label, but it appears to have time ahead.  The winemaking team noted that it had been a favorite in its youth, but it was not showing quite so well these days.  88

1995
With coffee and liquorice, it looks poised for a long life.  A slightly smoky note and perhaps a little much emphasis on the oak.  Fine now and should last,  drunk fairly soon.  91

1996 (bottle and magnum)
A near-legendary vintage.  Conventional wisdom suggests that after 20 years the magnum should be the preferred option.  It was a fascinating comparison.  The bottle opened nicely, with lovely aromas, not as deep and brooding as some of the preceding wines and with more red fruit than many others.  Florals and spices emerged in a beautifully balanced wine.  Silky tannins, fine acidity, and serous complexity.  A cracker.  96

The magnum was far more muted initially.  Dry herbs and seemingly a little more rustic.  Built for the long haul.  Naturally, very similar to the bottle, but not as generous or approachable today.  Time in the glass helped, and one feels that in another decade, it will be the superior format.  94

How many of theses are in your cellar. Tell us about them.

We conclude this special 6 part series on Wynns Coonawarra and its Black label Cabernet in the next post with the tasting notes between 1997 – 2015.