Pinotage Odyssey in Stellenbosch

Pinotage became a unique South African grape variety when a Professor of viticulture at Stellenbosch University crossed the varieties of Pinot and cinsault (Shiraz). But it took until 1941 until the first Pinotage wine was made. Some international acclaim was made in 1959 and because of that vast plantings were made but alas most struggled with the variety. Two British MW’s visited the Cape in 1976 and declared the variety had no future, so many producers uprooted large plantings of exisiting vines while only a few struggled on. With this brief introduction lets see what I discovered.

Constantia 

Our first stop. Constantia is a well-known wine-producing area and one of the oldest in the southern hemisphere. It is home to at least ten vineyards known locally as farms. Groot vineyard was planted in (yes) 1685 but as was explained the terrior is not really suited to Pinotage. However I did taste the 2022  Pinotage which was thin, with sharp tannins and a smelly strawberry taste. no score. My disappointment was noted so a 2012 was opened which was a revelation. Deep red in colour, slightly smokey and still forward with plum and vanilla, spice on the palate and smooth finish. 94/100. A$n/a. 2023 Sauvignon Blanc. As you know I generally can’t stand this style but what a surprise! Unlike the grassy versions from down under this showed gooseberries, peach and kiwi fruit. It was rich with crisp, fresh acidity. Absolutely delightful.93/100. A21.00.

Stark-Conde. 

A local friend and  sommelier recommended this vineyard as the best producer of Cabernet in the Cape. This organic high altitude vineyard nestled beside a picturesque lake showed their Cabernet Sauvignon range inside an island tasting cabin. Nice start. (apologies for the brochure photo). South African Cabernet Sauvignon show the typical

profile flavours of black currant, cherry, a dust of pepper with hints of cedar and tobacco. The two standouts were 2022 Tree Pines Cabernet. Beautifully textured with a smooth silky structure and floral finish.95/100. A55.00. 2022 Oude Nektar Cabernet. From Stellenbosch’s highest (550m)vineyard. Beautiful aromas cassis, violets and orange. Robust with big gripping tannins, black fruit enhances the length. Not for the faint hearted. 97/100. $67.00

Neil Ellis

Neil Ellis began sourcing grapes in 1984 and now selects from 4 regions, Piekenierskloof, Groenekloof, Stellenbosch and Elgin. Big show with 15 wines for tasting and picking the eyes out was hard.

2020 Bottelary Pinotage. Was totally different to Constantia. Dark plum. young red berries, sharp. But is this pinotage? 88/100.  $40.00.  2020 Stellenbosch Cabernet. Another cabernet of intense flavour of black berries, cedar and liquorice. Built to last and needs decanting. 92/100. A28.00. (Bargain). The 2022 Whitehall Chardonnay green fresh apples with cream went down well. 90/00. A35.00

Rustenberg Wines

Its first vintage was in 1781 and now make 20 different wines split into three distinct ranges. I just had to try the 2023 Stellenbosch Chenin Blanc – after all the Cape is renown for this variety. Distinct pineapple and pear finishing quite crisp and fresh. Nondescript. 89/100. A$12.00. 2021 Peter Barlow Cabernet from the Rustenberg site. Outstanding balance of oak which enhanced the fruit aromas and nice weight. Lovely. 90/100. A$68.00.2022  Stellenbosch John X Merriman from the flagship range. A Bordeaux blend predominantly Cabernet and Merlot. I found plenty of cigar and tobacco through the palate and sour cherry overtones. Lingered and full mouth flavour and was nicely balanced. I was told to wait 15 years for this to blossom. Sorry can’t wait that long. 92/100. A$30.00. Bargain.

L’Avenir Estate

Headed here as it is renowned for its Pinotage and Chenin Blanc. Located on the slopes of the Simonsberg mountains. It is a big show with wine interests worldwide, located beside a lake with plenty of space and facilities for functions.

2022 Provenance Chenin Blanc. A blend from its 3 premium vineyards, straw in colour, peach and melon and crisp citrus finish. Nice. 92/100. A$16.00. 2021 Single Block Chenin Blanc. Generous in flavour that hangs around. Enjoy the toasty overtones if you dare but most agreeable. 91/100. A$45.00. 2022 Provenance Pinotage. Light in colour, dominated with cherries and soft everywhere. 88/100. A$18.00. 2022 Horizon Pinotage. Vines are trellised very low to the ground to develop thicker skins. Those cherries (again) dominated in a dusty, bitter flavour. 87/100. A$22.00. 2020 Single Block Pinotage. Deep colour. full of flavour, excellent balance through the palate. Nice oak and hints of spice. Loved it. 94/100. A$70.00. I must also say the 2023 Single Block Glenrose had Provence all over it. Brown onion skin colour,  strawberries and raspberries made this a great Rose. 92/100. A$30.00.

Lanzerac Wine Estate

Home of the first bottled Pinotage in the world and combines a hotel with a wine estate.  Spread over expansive grounds with magnificent vista, this is another big show – well most are. In 2017 a fire burnt down the main operations but is now bigger with a spa, hotel, restaurant and deli. But what of the wines?

 2023 Pinotage Rose. Free run juice with pronounced perfume, rose petals and crushed strawberries. Not my bag. 89/100. $11.00. 2021 Pinotage. Deep colour and rich chocolate, with caramel and was juicy. Again a different slant on Pinotage. 90/100.S24.00. 2o20 Cabernet Sauvignon had hints of cocoa, but was also big, bold and spicy. Drink now style. 90/100. A$24.00.

 Ernie Els Wines

Worth the visit just for the panoramic views of Cape Town and Table Mountain to the left, Stellenbosch and Helderberg mountains to the right plus a top class restaurant for lunch on the open deck. Only got to try two wines with lunch – the 2023 Big Easy Chenin Blanc a light and crisp, apple, pears, refreshing  and uncomplicated. 92/100. A$14.50. And the 2022 Major Series Cabernet Sauvignon. Plenty of plum lurking with nice tannins with cassis and blackcurrant. Big and bold. 94/100. A$30.00.

Winemaker Elsa du Plessis shows her Pinotage.

Beyerskloof

The Queen of Pinotage generously showed me 5 wines, the best, from 4 ranges. 2022 Beyerskloof Pinotage. Deep ruby red with strong red berries and plum notes. Drinking well but not complex. 89/100. AS12.00.  2022 Reserve Pinotage. Dark red, toasty with excellent balance and a nice juicy after taste. 93/100. A$22.00. Bargain. 2022 Winemakers Reserve Pinotage. Complex, soft on the palate, nice balance and after taste gentle cherries and plum. 94/100. A$35.00. 2022 Kriekbult Pinotage. Nice aromas of red berries. Another with fine balance and lingering mouth feel. 90/100. A$50.00. 2022 Traildust Cape Blend of 33% Pinot Noir. 34% Pinotage and 33% Cinsaut. Again the trend of cherries and plum continue but this had a commercial feel about it being nondescript. 89/100. A$22.00. Chatting to Elsa there is no doubt she is passionate about Pinotage and its future having a consistent profile.

Kanonkop Wine Estate

Known in the Cape as the first growth wineyard. 2021 Paul Sauer Blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Full bodied as the  depth of flavour offered by these 3 grapes shines through. Spent 24 months in new French oak before 12 months in the bottle before release. Black current notes and cigar box result in firm tannins and a lingering finish. Delicious. 95/100. A$90.00 and worth it. They heavily promote magnums all the way to Salmanazar (9 litres). Refer to pix.

Photo of macaroons

Blaauwklippen 

Located at the foothills of the Stellenbosch mountains the estate covers 115 acres. You can find accomodation, a market, bike path, gym and vineyards and wine. Twelve varieties in fact which have been planted since 1682. A Sauvignon Blanc 86/100 was cut grass, a Rose 84/100 tannic, lacked fruit, Zinfandel 86/100 sulphur, Cabernet 89/100 very sweet berries and finished dry. 2018 DBK Bordeaux Blend. Classic Bordeaux blend, full bodied, cigar box, plum and chocolate and excellent length but was green on the finish which spoilt the experience. 88/100. A$31.00. 2024 Chenin Blanc. Peach and lemon and even pineapple gave a tasty finish. 90/100. A$13.00. Reverted to a selection of 2 gins which with local tonic water made up for the visit.

Conclusion

I found the Pinotage a very mixed bag and lacked consistency in profile which made it hard to determine’ what is pinotage’? Conversely Chenin Blanc which is the most widely grown grape in SA basically varied between sweet and dry and could all be distinguished with its flavours of Granny Smith apple, pear and tropical fruit.

The Cape Dutch architecture and history of many of the winery estates  was interesting in itself and the visas from them breathtaking and to the equal of any region in the world.

I recommend this destination for any bucket list.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Retropective Wynns Black Label tasting

The annual release of Wynns Coonawarra wines known as Wynnsday is officially Wednesday 5th June, 2024. However I was privileged to a preview of three of their icon wines with Wynns Senior Winemaker, Sue Hodder (left) as part of a retrospective Black Label tasting arranged by Melbourne’s Wine Table at the Danish Club recently.

Sue said that, “the 2022 vintage was a high-quality year without any obvious climate change impacts, so this presented a fabulous opportunity for my team to truly bring our creative winemaking style to the fore”.

She explained that the 2024 Wynnsday Collection is one of the best range of wines that have been released in her time at Wynns. “In over three decades at Wynns, I have seen some very fine wines produced, but this year’s release are well and truly amongst the best” she said in presenting three of the new release wines.

Wynns Messenger Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2021  A classically styled single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, refined and brooding, with beautifully loaded  blackcurrant, mint and perfumed aromas with a firm backbone of French oak. The palate is long with   fine tannins underpinning the fruit which shows superb length through the palate. 97/100. $80

Wynns Black Label ‘Old Vines’ Shiraz 2022

Calm, elegant, restrained and assured nose. Black and green olive nuances edge to spiced licorice. Thick swathes of dark berry and plum fruit. Creamy oak and a little dried peel. Full, yet structured and elegant. Cool climate dark fruit with savoury etching. Acid is refreshing and cleansing while the tannins exquisitely knit. Oak spice like a deft touch of seasoning. Superb now, with a fine track record of ageing so well. 91/100. $45

Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 

Wynns Black Label Cabernet is a true icon of Australian wine. First produced in 1954, it has a reputation for ageing gracefully and displaying excellent varietal and regional characteristics. Sue said that the wine is produced from only the top quality 20 to 25% of Cabernet Sauvignon fruit grown in their terra rossa vineyards. It is a favourite in auction circles and is one of Australia’s most collectable wines.

The tasting retrospectively then started. Please bear in mind these wines with the exception of the 2022 came from private cellars. The to be released 2022 was deep purple, clean, loaded with fruit dominated with plum and blackberry aromas and a hint of mint and chocolate. Frankly don’t bother drinking this now as it will need 6 – 8 yers to integrate. 10 years plus. 95/100. $45.

 1990  Black Label. Developed complex nose of dried fruit, blood red in colour, dry finish, soft through the palate, still drinking well but finished short as you would expect. Drink now. 90/100.  1998 Black Label. Nice deep dark purple colour. Still going strong with slightly closed nose, good length, rich complex palate of cassis, vanilla, and hints of dark berries and savoury. Retains good length too. Outstanding. 98/100. The 1999 Black label vintage was touted to be better than 98 but this bottle disappointed. The nose was volatile.

It may have benefited with a couple of hours in a decanter but initially it lacked palate depth and the tell tale signs of blackberry and eucalyptus were missing. There are better examples of the 99 out there. 88/100.

2006 Black label. Sue explained this was the beginning of a new era of Wynns winemaking. A cooler year, the nose was slightly closed but fruit was well structured in the classic Wynns style. Concentrated dark fruits and mint, it was smooth, long and well balanced. A ripper. Plus 3 years.  97/100. 2010 Black label. Sue said this was a bad year.but was a lovely deep colour. Plum and red berries on the nose. Good weight through the middle although this drifted away. Great drinking now.95/100. 2012 Black label. Full complex nose of blackberries and liquorice which descended through the palate. Big bold and robust red, drinking well now but will continue over the next 5 years. A wonderful example of this consistently great linage of Black Labels. 95/100. 2013 Black label. “This was wine that disappeared under the radar’, Sue explained. “It was a late bloomer and needs plenty of time to open out”, she said. This bottle was rich with dark fruits and a hint of toffee, well balanced and nice acidity up front. Loved it. 95/100.

2015 Black label. Perfumed nose with deep blood red colour. Full flavour black current, plum and liquorice. Nice long finish. Plus 6. 94/100. 2016 Black Label. From a dry drought year. Has plenty of work to peak in front of it Big, bold and complex ripe fruit with obvious tannin and a hint of aniseed. Chewy. Loved it plus 10. 97/100. 2019 Black label. Dense colour of vivid purple hue. Bursting with rich. chewy fruit. Complex and full and developing beautifully. Outstanding. 98/100.

In Conclusion.

There is no doubt Wynns flagship ‘peoples’ Cabernet rightly deserves its place as the most popular and consistent in its stable. The messenger was absolutely delightful and the best in this line up were the 1998, 2006, 2016 and 2019 Black label. Enjoy.

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Extensive Margaret River Tasting

I was delighted to visit the Margaret River region in May on a mission to concentrate on chardonnay and cabernet/blends. The first thing I quickly realised was the abundance of the Gingin clone which originated from the Côte d’Or, France and is the backbone of all most every WA Chardonnay.

The Gingin clone was the first Chardonnay planted in the Margaret River region in 1975. International fame followed when Decanter Magazine gave its highest recommendation to the Leeuwin Estate 1981 “Art Series” Chardonnay made by prominent winemaker Bob Cartwright. The nose expresses pronounced aromas of tropical fruit, citrus, and toasted almond. The mouthfeel is rich and textured yet fresh at the same time. This expression was evident in most of the chardonnays I tasted particularly at the top end.

Conversely it is the Houghton clone which dominates most WA Cabernets. This originated from the Houghton vineyard in the Swan Valley in about 1968. It often displays lower vigour vines, lower yields and smaller berries which give it that wonderful flavour and great intensity. It generally displays less herbaceous characters and a lovely density with classic, blackcurrant and cassis characters and certainly demonstrates that ‘power and elegance’ are not necessarily mutually exclusive.

With those thoughts in mind lets get on with the job.

Evoi

Nigel Ludlow, the winemaker started Evoi Wines in 2007 with 2 barrels of Chardonnay and now makes 14 different styles – probably too many – and he does very much everything. His standouts were a 2018 Reserve Malbec, 2018 Reserve Cabernet and 2014, a blend of Cab/Petit Verdot/Malbec all 89/100. all $69. Due to the elevation of a block of Cabernet he is ripping it out and will replace it with Chardonnay.

Voyager Estate

This huge estate is dominated by a Dutch inspired mansion, similar to those found in Stellenbosch  SA. I was told they planted 60,000 trees throughout the property.

Formed in 1978 this certified organic producer had two outstanding wines.

The 2022 Coastal Chardonnay had layers of lemon, grapefruit, citrus and gentle toastiness with a refreshing finish. 93/100. VALUE. $30.

However the 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon with just 65% Merlot was one of the best I tried during my 4 day visit. Black currant and chocolate on the nose and a palate of elegance, balance complexity and fruit power. 96/100. $95. Wonderful.

Worth a visit to stroll around the vast estate and look at the kitchen garden.

Fermoy Estate

One of the up and coming wineries in the region with a wide selection of sparkling, whites and reds.  I did not try them all but a Sparkling Brut Rose, a 2022 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc blend, a 2021 Reserve Chardonnay and a 2021 Estate Shiraz full of plum and pepper were enjoyable.

Claire on cellar door duty was great and recommended the 2022 Estate Chardonnay 90/100 VALUE $27. Peach, citrus and salted cashew. Yum. Also the 2018 Estate Cabernet loaded with mulberry and chocolate. 90/100 $50. The 2018 Reserve Cabernet was closed and needs more time to come together. There is also a gourmet shop adjacent which showcased local produce

Marq Wines

Renowned local winemaker Mark Warren (pictured below), embraces  lesser-known varietals such as  Gamay, Fino, Sparking Vermentino, Appassimento and Gros Manseng to Chardonnay and Cabernet, the Margaret River classics. The stand out was the 2022 Verdelho.Visit : Marq Wines 90/100. VALUE $25  A young,  refreshing wine with abundant flavour and a creamy texture. There is a distinct chalky minerality to the palate which displays flavours of citrus, fig, nectarine gooseberry and lemonade with notes of brioche and passionfruit. Winery not to be discarded when in the region.

Leeuwin Estate

Another glorious vista as you enter this expansive estate with a classy cellar door tasting room and an upmarket art gallery. Then you can ponder the quality and extraordinary high prices of the Art Series range. I am not saying that they are not worth it but when you have an elevated pedigree and a reputation with consumers why not?

Kerry Clift, the Cellar Door Manager was quite happy to pour all the range for tasting including the Art Series. Let’s start with those. The 2020 Art Series Chardonnay 96/100. $152 and 2019 Art Series Cabernet 95/100. $96. Both class acts with the Cabernet a reasonable price for the elevated perfumed and fragrant nose, backed up with cherries and black currant. More in my price range was the Prelude range with 2021 Chardonnay 92/100. $39. the pick. Cut lime and pear dominate the nose with evidence of grapefruit, lime and lemon finishing things off.

Mr Barval

I was keen to go there due to Robert Gherardi, a 3rd generation Italian has been around the traps – Mosswood, Brown Hill, Cullen and Elio Altare in Barolo in various wine making roles. He bought the distresed winery 2 years ago after it was run down with an objective of producing world class wines.

Kelly hosted and boy was she enthusiastic in promoting the wines particularly the Nebbiolo ($40) which Robert fell in love with during his 2 years in Barolo. Alas, his objective of recreating a Piemonte classic has much work ahead of it. The Cabernet had a vegetable nose, was green but an undertow of mixed fruit and was overpriced at $90.

Deep Woods

One of the 11 wineries owned by the Fogarty Group. Interesting portfolio of wines here ranging from a very light, drink now Cabernet Franc $40, to a Grand Selection Yallingup Cabernet $130. The first that caught my attention was the 2021 Single Vineyard Chardonnay.92/100 $50. It had a nutty and lifted peach aroma with juicy lemon lime palate finishing long and tangy.

The other was the 2020 Single Vineyard G2 Cabernet. 92/100. $55. Inky dark in colour, with bright crimson and purple hues. Powerful and long through the palate reflecting 40 year old vines and from the estate Gibb Road block. I reckon a drink window of only 5- 8 years which suits me fine.

The Cab/Malbec $45 is recommended too.

Driftwood Estate

Winemaker Kane Grove oversees 13 different varieties but overall reflected the regions staple of Chardonnay and Cabernet’s. The best was the 2020 Single Site Chardonnay 95/100. $80 but if you are a member of Costco it is available for $50! This is a beauty. Elegant with aromas of nectarine, citrus and vanilla. French oak give subtle finish to a creamy and stone fruit length. A buy.The other I recommend is the Artefacts Shiraz/Petit Verdot/Malbec/Cabernet blend. 90/100. VALUE $35. Rich berry fruits combine with soft tannins, crisp acidity and hints of pepper. The Heritage $35 classic blend of Petit Verdot/Malbec/Cabernet finished quite dry and a little short.

Wills Domain

Great wines from  – in my view – an understated vineyard. The premium wines of the Paladin Hill range really stood out. Wonderful. Loved the range. Let’s start with 2020 Paladin Hill Matrix  Cabernet Blend. 95/100. $100. Vibrant purple colour, perfumed, with lifted black currants on the nose finishing with a big chewy palate and soft lingering tannins. The French oak is beautifully integrated.

Another cracker was the 2021 Paladin Chardonnay. 95/100. $80. Hand picked, whole bunched pressed directly to barrels and 25% malolactic fermentation. 10% new oak and 9 months in barrel. Bottled in February this year. Pronounced limes with some lemon up front and a palate creamy and savoury. Finishes with pure lingering acidity. An outstanding Chardonnay.

Another two wines to include on your visit are the 2020 Eightfold Chardonnay with slight buttery malolactic fermentation and 2020 Cabernet, years ahead of it, both at $45.

 

What is Malolactic fermentation? (MLF).

You will have noticed we talk about malolactic fermintation, so let me explain. Nearly all red wines and some white wines (such as Chardonnay and Viognier) undergo malolactic fermentation. One way to recognize MLF in a wine is to note if it has a creamy, oily mid-palate texture. This can indicate malo. Another easy way to identify the malo is to see if the wine was aged in oak since MLF typically occurs while wines age in oak barrels.

It’s not uncommon for white wines to let only a small percentage of the wine have the malolactic conversion. This is a clever way of adding texture and body to the wine without losing too much of the positive floral and citrus aromas that waft off when white wines age in oak.

Clairault Streicker wines

Clairault Streicker has blocks in three of the Margaret River sub-regions – Yallingup, Wilyabrup and Karridale. The wines reflect each area. At the top end in the Ironstone range the old block chardonnay $50 and old block Cabernet $50 were agreeable.

The entry wines 2019 Chardonnay $28 and a 2018 Cabernet Merlot $22 (11% merlot) represent good value.

Domain NaturalisteDomaine Naturaliste Restaurant - Wilyabrup, , AU-WA | OpenTable

One of the highlights of the Margaret River visit. Winemaker Bruce Dukes turned on all his best Chardonnay and cabernets for the tasting. 2018 Flagship Morus Cabernet. 96/100. $87. Decorated by many reviewers. Aromas of violets and blueberries, ripe cassis black fruit, rich with a lovely balanced. 2021 Flagship Artus Chardonnay 97/100, VALUE $56. Gingin clone. Grapefruit and nectarine, highly textured with a beautiful finish. Yum. 2021  Flagship Purus Chardonnay. 97/100, VALUE $56. Bruce gives this a 4-8 drinking window. Suits me fine at my age. 2021 Floris Chardonnay.95/100. VALUE $36. Again lovely nectarine and floral notes. 2019 Rebus Cabernet. 95/100. VALUE $36. The same theme of black currents and hints of tobacco medium bodied and smooth all the way through the palate. Throw in the Cabernet Franc blend and you have the complete package from this vineyard.

Amelia Park

A winery I had not heard of before but certainly had a majestic cellar door. Jeremy Gordon, the winemaker has received numerous awards throughout his career including the Jimmy Watson Memorial Trophy and the James Halliday Chardonnay Challenge. Along with these awards, he has won multiple trophies at high calibre wine shows such as Decanter World Wine Awards, National Wine Show of Australia, and the Margaret River Wine Show.

He was not available to host so Mike and Bree stepped up to the plate. They make 350,000 cases a year and on tasting were 24 wines covering 13 varieties.  Prices ranged from $18 – to one at $50. All were in the $20 – $35 range. I was told elsewhere that the prime market is mostly pubs, cafes and bistros. I may be wrong.

Fraser Gallop

The Fraser Gallop Estate suite of wines comprises Estate, Parterre and Palladian ranges. The winery was established in 1999 with the impressive cellar door added in 2008. Clive Otto the Chief winemaker, started his career in the West spending 16 years with Vasse Felix, so he knows his stuff. The 2021 Estate Cabernet with 13% Petit Verdot 92/100. VALUE $35 had a very attractive bouquet of red fruits, raspberry, redcurrant, cassis and cherries. Fresh, long, succulent and good length. Worth seeking out. The 2019 Parterre Cabernet. 89/100. $60 was overpriced compared to many Cabernets found elsewhere. In the top Palladian range the pick was the 2021 Chardonnay 95/100. $140. Dig deep for this one but you will be rewarded with a lemon focus and a citrus zing. Toasty oak is slightly present but not overdone. Great balance. Another expensive offering is the 2019 Palladian Cabernet. 88/100. $140. I had heard that this was outstanding but for me was green and stalky. May have been opened for a couple of days. Pity.

Mosswood

Always a delight to be in the hands of one of the regions elite vineyards. Here’s why. Maya, a French student who is studying a business degree in wine, traveled the 3 hours from Perth on a Sunday to open the cellar where all the tasting are conducted on a small table amongst the barrels and also the shed where the wines are packed and sent all over the world. You cannot just rock up as it is appointment only.

The popularity of Moss wood Cabernet holds no bounds. All flag ship Cabernets were sold out – usually within 6 weeks of release so get on the mailing list. Instead Maya showed tank samples of the 2023 Semillon and barrel samples of 2022 Chardonnay release Sept 2023, 2022 Pinot Noir release 2024 (grubby, harsh and unusual length), 2021 Cabernet release 2024.

What was available was the second tier Ribbon Vale range. Two stood out. 2020 Ribbon Vale Merlot 93/100. $76. Ripe plum and red rose lead to cassis, cherry/berry flavours with a backbone of ripe tannins and refreshing acidity. Needs a couple of years to blossom.  2020 Ribbon Vale Cabernet. 93/100. $76. Black fruit, dark chocolate and coffee. Medium to full-bodied, with chocolate and cedar.  Probably a 5-8 year window.

Pierro

Another vineyard with great outstanding  examples of Margaret River Chardonnay and Cabernets. Maria hosting on the cellar door explained that winemaker Mike Peterkin was not completely satisfied with the first three vintages of Chardonnay(1983-85), made using standard Australian winemaking practices, so he decided to make some radical changes and the Pierro Chardonnay style was born in the 1986 vintage. 

Today there are three distinct blocks of chardonnay on the property. About 95% of the Pierro Chardonnay is the Gingin clone, which, as explained at the top of the Blog produces the best quality wine in the region. I was not disappointed with the flagship. 

2019 Vintage Reserve Chardonnay. 96/100. $120. Worth every dollar. Peterkin holds back this wine for release in 2 years which shows how the wine can benefit from extra time in the bottle. this wine is now showing toasty butterscotch character with a lift of lemon and grapefruit finishing a minerally acidity. 10 year max drinking. The 2022 Fire Gully Chardonnay. 90/100. $36. Showed a sweet but fragrant nose more evidence of oak but was all butterscotch, pineapple and lemon. Of the reds the 2020 Fire Gully Cabernet Reserve. 96/100. VALUE $48, was lovely. Rich, long, medium drink now body, with layers of tobacco and olives.Finished long and lingering. Don’t pass the 2020 Cabernet/Merlot by either at $39.

Woodlands

I just adore wines from this producer and I was not disappointed. Sarah who hosted, was happy to show the whole range including the top end expensive Chardonnay and Cabernets.

Established in 1973, the vineyard specialises in Bordeaux blends and uses the same first plantings in 1973. I noticed that they are on Langton’s Classification of Fine Wines – if you believe in that stuff. The Houghton (see at top of Bloclone dominates the red wines.

There is no doubt the 2018 Margaret Blend 80% Cab/10% Merlot/10% Malbec. 96/100. VALUE $59 was great. Deep colour with blackberry prominent on the nose followed by a palate that was powerful exhibiting more blackberry but a long and velvety finish. The classy 2018 Ruby Jane Cabernet is $169 and the 2016 Clementine Eloise Cabernet $189 are for those who want to impress.

To save on the rack price you must be a Wine Club member. Now be warned, there are so many options to become a club member that it was confusing with all sorts of different categories and entry price points. It was a heavy sales spiel accompanied by an equally confusing colour brochure.

I hope you are still with me!

Woody Nook.

Woody Nook Wines (Margaret River): All You Need to Know An old fashion style cellar door, not like the flash modern tasting facilities which dominate the region.  I popped in here for a very generous platter lunch and to reacquaint myself the 2018 Gallagher’s Choice Cabernet 94/100. $55. which I purchase most years. Hand picked from 30+ year old vines, this is a classic, full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon. It is vibrant and complex comprising blackcurrant, eucalypt  and well integrated French oak.   They also have an ‘Adopt a Vine’ program.  And 13 wines to suit all tastes.

Thompson Estate

Winemaker Peter Thompson was in Adelaide but took the time to conduct a tasting by video from his car! Brilliant innovation.

Two wines from a stable of 16 stood out. the 2022 Specialist Chardonnay 89/100. $38, minimum oak treatment  showed big early development while the 2018 (that year again) Estate Cabernet 90/100 VALUE $44 had all the hallmarks of the region. Another, the 2019 Specialist Cabernet 95/100. $76 deep crimson red and here comes that black current, jucicy flavours again  topped with chocolate.

This wine has won 6 gold medals from various Australian wine she and was the best cabernet at the 2021 Royal Melbourne Show.

Vasse Felix

I am told Vasse Felix contributes just 3% to Australia’s total wine production, however commands over 20% of the premium market. It has four sites around the region from which the range of Icon, Premier, Filius and Classic are made. Vasse Felix is Margaret River’s founding wine estate first planted in 1967.

A friend of mine organised vertical tasting of  8 wines in The Vault, an underground cellar with a flash, well decorated tasting room opposite. So let’s check out some of the wines.

2021 Icon Heytesbury Chardonnay, 90/100 $88. Only 6000 bottles made. Pronounced slight oak nose but carries the fruit right through the palate and will go for 15 years. 2021 Premier Chardonnay. 92/100. VALUE $36. 

Immediately crisp, and clean with bright acidity and a nice fruit line with a dry finish. Five year window, drink now. 2022 Filius Chardonnay. 89/100. $24. Bottled in January this year so has some development to go. Gingin clone, 36% new oak, friendly wine without too much length. 89/100. $24.

2019 Icon Tom Cullity.95/100.$160. 78% Cabernet, 22% Malbec. 56 year vines. Beautifully balanced, fruit explosion of black currant, chocolate and sweet aromatic oak finish which lingers. Needs time to open. Plus 10 years. If only I had the money. 2020 Premium Cabernet. 87/100. $44. 13% Malbec. Finishes very dry, and length drops away quickly. 2020 Filius Cabernet 87/100. $24. 5% Malbec. Made for a price point. Bright colour and fruity.

Juniper

Mark Messenger the winemaker has a stable of 27 wines across 6 ranges. Naturally I concentrated on the top ranges of Cornerstone and Heritage. 2016 Cornerstone Wiyabrup Cabernet. 87/100. $68. Full of chocolate and liquorice, too big and tannic. 2018 Heritage Aquitaine Cabernet Blend. 92/100. VALUE $34. Dense purple red in colour. Rich, ripe aromas of dark chocolate, with cherries lead into a medium-bodied palate. Plenty of cellaring potential. 2018 Karridale Cabernet. 93/100. $53. Deep red in colour, showing, vanilla, spice and cedar. Medium-bodied with dense blackberry and tremendous length. The 2021 Cornerstone Wilyabrup Chardonnay $45 was clean but dry and the 2020 Karridale Chardonnay had a slight barn yard nose. Very obliging cellar door who readily agreed to ship my assorted wines back to Melbourne.

 Summary

There is no doubt that this is the place for great Chardonnay and Cabernet. 2018 was one of the greatest years in Margaret River so always look out for wines of that year. Beware, almost all cellars charge a tasting fee per head – some $15, but refundable on purchase. Almost all will encourage you to join their Wine Club which does make the unit price per bottle much cheaper. That is of course you if don’t mind being bombarded with emails and telemarketers trying to sell you ‘specials’. Some of the Club membership offers were confusing such as the Woodlands experience so tread carefully. Vineyard of the trip goes to Domain Naturalist for quality and price.

Let me know what you think by responding in the comments section of the page. 

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Wine grumblings into 2023

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Royal Adelaide Wine Show winners announced

Boutique wine producers have taken home many of the gongs at South Australia’s annual wine show with a small Clare Valley winery, established less than 20 years ago, claiming one of the most prestigious trophies.

Naked Run Wines won the Gramp, Hardy, Hill Smith Prize for National White Wine of Provenance for the 2022, 2015 and 2012 vintages of The First Riesling, made from single vineyard fruit grown at Sevenhill.

The Max Schubert AM Trophy for Most Outstanding Red Wine in Show was won by another boutique producer, Sutton Grange Winery from Central Victoria, for their Sutton Grange Estate Syrah 2019. They also won the Best Shiraz and Best Shiraz 2019 and Older trophies.

The Red Wine of Provenance trophy was won by wine industry legend, Hardy’s, for the 2020, 2014 and 2008 vintages of their Eileen Hardy Shiraz.

The George Fairbrother Memorial Trophy for Most Outstanding White Wine in Show was won by Penfold’s for their Penfold’s Bin A Chardonnay 2021. They also took home the Governor’s Trophy for Best South Australian White Wine in Show and Best Chardonnay in Show.

Hentley Farm won the Governor’s Trophy for Best South Australian Red Wine in Show with their The Stray Grenache Shiraz 2021, as well as the Best Other Red Blend in Show title.

For gin drinkers The Champion Spirit of Show trophy was won by Prohibition Liquor Co for their Juniperus Gin.

The full list of winning wines

THE GOVERNOR’S TROPHY for BEST SOUTH AUSTRALIAN WHITE WINE IN SHOW
Won by – Penfolds Wines – Bin A Chardonnay 2021

THE GOVERNOR’S TROPHY for BEST SOUTH AUSTRALIAN RED WINE IN SHOW
Won by – Hentley Farm – The Stray Grenache Shiraz 2021

THE TAFE SA TROPHY for CHAMPION SPIRIT OF SHOW
Won by – Prohibition Liquor Co Juniperus Gin

THE GEORGE FAIRBROTHER MEMORIAL TROPHY for MOST OUTSTANDING WHITE WINE IN SHOW
Won by – Penfolds Wines – Bin A Chardonnay 2021

THE MAX SCHUBERT AM TROPHY for MOST OUTSTANDING RED WINE IN SHOW
Won by – Sutton Grange Winery – Sutton Grange Estate Syrah 2019

THE GRAMP, HARDY, HILL SMITH PRIZE for NATIONAL WHITE WINE OF PROVENANCE
Won By – Naked Run Wines – The First Riesling 2022, 2015, 2012

THE GRAMP, HARDY, HILL SMITH PRIZE for NATIONAL RED WINE OF PROVENANCE
Won By – Hardys Eileen Hardy Shiraz 2020, 2014, 2008

The 2022 Royal Adelaide Wine Show Trophy Results

THE AFFINITY LABS TROPHY for BEST RIESLING IN SHOW
Won by – Grant Burge – The Vigneron Reserve Riesling 2017

THE SEGUIN MOREAU TROPHY for BEST CHARDONNAY IN SHOW
Won by – Penfolds Wines – Bin A Chardonnay 2021

THE FINLAYSONS TROPHY for BEST SEMILLON IN SHOW
Won by – Tyrrells Vineyards – Vat 1 Semillon 2013

THE BDO TROPHY for BEST DRY WHITE BLEND IN SHOW
Won by – Robert Oatley Vineyard – Robert Oatley Signature Series Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2022

THE ARKABA CELLARS TROPHY for BEST SAUVIGNON BLANC IN SHOW
Won by – Dural Wines – Saint & Scholar Sauvignon Blanc 2022

THE PROGRAMMED PROPERTY SERVICES TROPHY for BEST OTHER VARIETAL WHITE IN SHOW –  Won by  Tomfoolery Wines – Fox Whistle Pinot Gris 2022

THE BRAUD AUSTRALIA TROPHY for BEST SWEET WHITE TABLE WINE IN SHOW
Won by – De Bortoli Wines – Noble One Semillon 2020

THE PIPER ALDERMAN TROPHY for BEST ROSE IN SHOW
Won by – Paulett Wines – Sangiovese Rose 2022

THE HURTLE & NORMAN WALKER TROPHY for BEST SPARKLING WINE IN SHOW
Won by – Golding Wines – Marjorie Blanc De Blancs Chardonnay 2016

THE LALLEMAND TROPHY for BEST PINOT NOIR IN SHOW
Won by – Coles Liquor – James Busby ‘Vineyard Series’ Tasmania Pinot Noir 2021

THE TILBROOK RASHEED TROPHY for BEST GRENACHE IN SHOW
Won by – Seppeltsfield Wines – Barossa Grenache 2022

THE RADOUX AUSTRALIA TROPHY for BEST OTHER RED BLEND IN SHOW
Won by – Hentley Farm – The Stray Grenache Shiraz 2021

THE WINE COMMUNICATORS OF AUSTRALIA, SA CHAPTER TROPHY for BEST SHIRAZ IN SHOW
Won by – Sutton Grange Winery – Sutton Grange Estate Syrah 2019

THE PROFESSOR A.J. PERKINS TROPHY for BEST CABERNET SAUVIGNON IN SHOW
Won by – Xanadu Wines – Cabernet Sauvignon 2020

THE KARL SEPPELT AO TROPHY for BEST OTHER VARIETAL RED IN SHOW- Won by Peter Lehmann Wines – Hill & Valley Tempranillo 2021

THE ORORA CLOSURES TROPHY for BEST SHIRAZ 2019 VINTAGE AND OLDER
Won by – Sutton Grange Winery – Sutton Grange Estate Syrah 2019

THE DOREAU AUSTRALIA TROPHY for BEST SHIRAZ 2020 VINTAGE AND YOUNGER
Won by – Pinnacle Drinks – Barebones Great Western Shiraz 2021

THE DR RAY BECKWITH OAM MEMORIAL TROPHY for BEST TRADITIONAL AUSTRALIAN RED BLEND IN SHOW
Won by – Majella Wines – The Musician Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2021

THE JOHN FORNACHON MEMORIAL TROPHY for BEST APERA, TOPAQUE, MUSCAT OR SWEET WHITE IN SHOW
Won by – Morris Wines – Old Premium Muscat

THE IN DAILY TROPHY for BEST AUSTRALIAN VINTAGE, TAWNY OR RUBY IN SHOW
Won by – Morris Wines – Old Premium Tawny

Thanks to Daily Wine news
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