Extensive Margaret River Tasting

I was delighted to visit the Margaret River region in May on a mission to concentrate on chardonnay and cabernet/blends. The first thing I quickly realised was the abundance of the Gingin clone which originated from the Côte d’Or, France and is the backbone of all most every WA Chardonnay.

The Gingin clone was the first Chardonnay planted in the Margaret River region in 1975. International fame followed when Decanter Magazine gave its highest recommendation to the Leeuwin Estate 1981 “Art Series” Chardonnay made by prominent winemaker Bob Cartwright. The nose expresses pronounced aromas of tropical fruit, citrus, and toasted almond. The mouthfeel is rich and textured yet fresh at the same time. This expression was evident in most of the chardonnays I tasted particularly at the top end.

Conversely it is the Houghton clone which dominates most WA Cabernets. This originated from the Houghton vineyard in the Swan Valley in about 1968. It often displays lower vigour vines, lower yields and smaller berries which give it that wonderful flavour and great intensity. It generally displays less herbaceous characters and a lovely density with classic, blackcurrant and cassis characters and certainly demonstrates that ‘power and elegance’ are not necessarily mutually exclusive.

With those thoughts in mind lets get on with the job.

Evoi

Nigel Ludlow, the winemaker started Evoi Wines in 2007 with 2 barrels of Chardonnay and now makes 14 different styles – probably too many – and he does very much everything. His standouts were a 2018 Reserve Malbec, 2018 Reserve Cabernet and 2014, a blend of Cab/Petit Verdot/Malbec all 89/100. all $69. Due to the elevation of a block of Cabernet he is ripping it out and will replace it with Chardonnay.

Voyager Estate

This huge estate is dominated by a Dutch inspired mansion, similar to those found in Stellenbosch  SA. I was told they planted 60,000 trees throughout the property.

Formed in 1978 this certified organic producer had two outstanding wines.

The 2022 Coastal Chardonnay had layers of lemon, grapefruit, citrus and gentle toastiness with a refreshing finish. 93/100. VALUE. $30.

However the 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon with just 65% Merlot was one of the best I tried during my 4 day visit. Black currant and chocolate on the nose and a palate of elegance, balance complexity and fruit power. 96/100. $95. Wonderful.

Worth a visit to stroll around the vast estate and look at the kitchen garden.

Fermoy Estate

One of the up and coming wineries in the region with a wide selection of sparkling, whites and reds.  I did not try them all but a Sparkling Brut Rose, a 2022 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc blend, a 2021 Reserve Chardonnay and a 2021 Estate Shiraz full of plum and pepper were enjoyable.

Claire on cellar door duty was great and recommended the 2022 Estate Chardonnay 90/100 VALUE $27. Peach, citrus and salted cashew. Yum. Also the 2018 Estate Cabernet loaded with mulberry and chocolate. 90/100 $50. The 2018 Reserve Cabernet was closed and needs more time to come together. There is also a gourmet shop adjacent which showcased local produce

Marq Wines

Renowned local winemaker Mark Warren (pictured below), embraces  lesser-known varietals such as  Gamay, Fino, Sparking Vermentino, Appassimento and Gros Manseng to Chardonnay and Cabernet, the Margaret River classics. The stand out was the 2022 Verdelho.Visit : Marq Wines 90/100. VALUE $25  A young,  refreshing wine with abundant flavour and a creamy texture. There is a distinct chalky minerality to the palate which displays flavours of citrus, fig, nectarine gooseberry and lemonade with notes of brioche and passionfruit. Winery not to be discarded when in the region.

Leeuwin Estate

Another glorious vista as you enter this expansive estate with a classy cellar door tasting room and an upmarket art gallery. Then you can ponder the quality and extraordinary high prices of the Art Series range. I am not saying that they are not worth it but when you have an elevated pedigree and a reputation with consumers why not?

Kerry Clift, the Cellar Door Manager was quite happy to pour all the range for tasting including the Art Series. Let’s start with those. The 2020 Art Series Chardonnay 96/100. $152 and 2019 Art Series Cabernet 95/100. $96. Both class acts with the Cabernet a reasonable price for the elevated perfumed and fragrant nose, backed up with cherries and black currant. More in my price range was the Prelude range with 2021 Chardonnay 92/100. $39. the pick. Cut lime and pear dominate the nose with evidence of grapefruit, lime and lemon finishing things off.

Mr Barval

I was keen to go there due to Robert Gherardi, a 3rd generation Italian has been around the traps – Mosswood, Brown Hill, Cullen and Elio Altare in Barolo in various wine making roles. He bought the distresed winery 2 years ago after it was run down with an objective of producing world class wines.

Kelly hosted and boy was she enthusiastic in promoting the wines particularly the Nebbiolo ($40) which Robert fell in love with during his 2 years in Barolo. Alas, his objective of recreating a Piemonte classic has much work ahead of it. The Cabernet had a vegetable nose, was green but an undertow of mixed fruit and was overpriced at $90.

Deep Woods

One of the 11 wineries owned by the Fogarty Group. Interesting portfolio of wines here ranging from a very light, drink now Cabernet Franc $40, to a Grand Selection Yallingup Cabernet $130. The first that caught my attention was the 2021 Single Vineyard Chardonnay.92/100 $50. It had a nutty and lifted peach aroma with juicy lemon lime palate finishing long and tangy.

The other was the 2020 Single Vineyard G2 Cabernet. 92/100. $55. Inky dark in colour, with bright crimson and purple hues. Powerful and long through the palate reflecting 40 year old vines and from the estate Gibb Road block. I reckon a drink window of only 5- 8 years which suits me fine.

The Cab/Malbec $45 is recommended too.

Driftwood Estate

Winemaker Kane Grove oversees 13 different varieties but overall reflected the regions staple of Chardonnay and Cabernet’s. The best was the 2020 Single Site Chardonnay 95/100. $80 but if you are a member of Costco it is available for $50! This is a beauty. Elegant with aromas of nectarine, citrus and vanilla. French oak give subtle finish to a creamy and stone fruit length. A buy.The other I recommend is the Artefacts Shiraz/Petit Verdot/Malbec/Cabernet blend. 90/100. VALUE $35. Rich berry fruits combine with soft tannins, crisp acidity and hints of pepper. The Heritage $35 classic blend of Petit Verdot/Malbec/Cabernet finished quite dry and a little short.

Wills Domain

Great wines from  – in my view – an understated vineyard. The premium wines of the Paladin Hill range really stood out. Wonderful. Loved the range. Let’s start with 2020 Paladin Hill Matrix  Cabernet Blend. 95/100. $100. Vibrant purple colour, perfumed, with lifted black currants on the nose finishing with a big chewy palate and soft lingering tannins. The French oak is beautifully integrated.

Another cracker was the 2021 Paladin Chardonnay. 95/100. $80. Hand picked, whole bunched pressed directly to barrels and 25% malolactic fermentation. 10% new oak and 9 months in barrel. Bottled in February this year. Pronounced limes with some lemon up front and a palate creamy and savoury. Finishes with pure lingering acidity. An outstanding Chardonnay.

Another two wines to include on your visit are the 2020 Eightfold Chardonnay with slight buttery malolactic fermentation and 2020 Cabernet, years ahead of it, both at $45.

 

What is Malolactic fermentation? (MLF).

You will have noticed we talk about malolactic fermintation, so let me explain. Nearly all red wines and some white wines (such as Chardonnay and Viognier) undergo malolactic fermentation. One way to recognize MLF in a wine is to note if it has a creamy, oily mid-palate texture. This can indicate malo. Another easy way to identify the malo is to see if the wine was aged in oak since MLF typically occurs while wines age in oak barrels.

It’s not uncommon for white wines to let only a small percentage of the wine have the malolactic conversion. This is a clever way of adding texture and body to the wine without losing too much of the positive floral and citrus aromas that waft off when white wines age in oak.

Clairault Streicker wines

Clairault Streicker has blocks in three of the Margaret River sub-regions – Yallingup, Wilyabrup and Karridale. The wines reflect each area. At the top end in the Ironstone range the old block chardonnay $50 and old block Cabernet $50 were agreeable.

The entry wines 2019 Chardonnay $28 and a 2018 Cabernet Merlot $22 (11% merlot) represent good value.

Domain NaturalisteDomaine Naturaliste Restaurant - Wilyabrup, , AU-WA | OpenTable

One of the highlights of the Margaret River visit. Winemaker Bruce Dukes turned on all his best Chardonnay and cabernets for the tasting. 2018 Flagship Morus Cabernet. 96/100. $87. Decorated by many reviewers. Aromas of violets and blueberries, ripe cassis black fruit, rich with a lovely balanced. 2021 Flagship Artus Chardonnay 97/100, VALUE $56. Gingin clone. Grapefruit and nectarine, highly textured with a beautiful finish. Yum. 2021  Flagship Purus Chardonnay. 97/100, VALUE $56. Bruce gives this a 4-8 drinking window. Suits me fine at my age. 2021 Floris Chardonnay.95/100. VALUE $36. Again lovely nectarine and floral notes. 2019 Rebus Cabernet. 95/100. VALUE $36. The same theme of black currents and hints of tobacco medium bodied and smooth all the way through the palate. Throw in the Cabernet Franc blend and you have the complete package from this vineyard.

Amelia Park

A winery I had not heard of before but certainly had a majestic cellar door. Jeremy Gordon, the winemaker has received numerous awards throughout his career including the Jimmy Watson Memorial Trophy and the James Halliday Chardonnay Challenge. Along with these awards, he has won multiple trophies at high calibre wine shows such as Decanter World Wine Awards, National Wine Show of Australia, and the Margaret River Wine Show.

He was not available to host so Mike and Bree stepped up to the plate. They make 350,000 cases a year and on tasting were 24 wines covering 13 varieties.  Prices ranged from $18 – to one at $50. All were in the $20 – $35 range. I was told elsewhere that the prime market is mostly pubs, cafes and bistros. I may be wrong.

Fraser Gallop

The Fraser Gallop Estate suite of wines comprises Estate, Parterre and Palladian ranges. The winery was established in 1999 with the impressive cellar door added in 2008. Clive Otto the Chief winemaker, started his career in the West spending 16 years with Vasse Felix, so he knows his stuff. The 2021 Estate Cabernet with 13% Petit Verdot 92/100. VALUE $35 had a very attractive bouquet of red fruits, raspberry, redcurrant, cassis and cherries. Fresh, long, succulent and good length. Worth seeking out. The 2019 Parterre Cabernet. 89/100. $60 was overpriced compared to many Cabernets found elsewhere. In the top Palladian range the pick was the 2021 Chardonnay 95/100. $140. Dig deep for this one but you will be rewarded with a lemon focus and a citrus zing. Toasty oak is slightly present but not overdone. Great balance. Another expensive offering is the 2019 Palladian Cabernet. 88/100. $140. I had heard that this was outstanding but for me was green and stalky. May have been opened for a couple of days. Pity.

Mosswood

Always a delight to be in the hands of one of the regions elite vineyards. Here’s why. Maya, a French student who is studying a business degree in wine, traveled the 3 hours from Perth on a Sunday to open the cellar where all the tasting are conducted on a small table amongst the barrels and also the shed where the wines are packed and sent all over the world. You cannot just rock up as it is appointment only.

The popularity of Moss wood Cabernet holds no bounds. All flag ship Cabernets were sold out – usually within 6 weeks of release so get on the mailing list. Instead Maya showed tank samples of the 2023 Semillon and barrel samples of 2022 Chardonnay release Sept 2023, 2022 Pinot Noir release 2024 (grubby, harsh and unusual length), 2021 Cabernet release 2024.

What was available was the second tier Ribbon Vale range. Two stood out. 2020 Ribbon Vale Merlot 93/100. $76. Ripe plum and red rose lead to cassis, cherry/berry flavours with a backbone of ripe tannins and refreshing acidity. Needs a couple of years to blossom.  2020 Ribbon Vale Cabernet. 93/100. $76. Black fruit, dark chocolate and coffee. Medium to full-bodied, with chocolate and cedar.  Probably a 5-8 year window.

Pierro

Another vineyard with great outstanding  examples of Margaret River Chardonnay and Cabernets. Maria hosting on the cellar door explained that winemaker Mike Peterkin was not completely satisfied with the first three vintages of Chardonnay(1983-85), made using standard Australian winemaking practices, so he decided to make some radical changes and the Pierro Chardonnay style was born in the 1986 vintage. 

Today there are three distinct blocks of chardonnay on the property. About 95% of the Pierro Chardonnay is the Gingin clone, which, as explained at the top of the Blog produces the best quality wine in the region. I was not disappointed with the flagship. 

2019 Vintage Reserve Chardonnay. 96/100. $120. Worth every dollar. Peterkin holds back this wine for release in 2 years which shows how the wine can benefit from extra time in the bottle. this wine is now showing toasty butterscotch character with a lift of lemon and grapefruit finishing a minerally acidity. 10 year max drinking. The 2022 Fire Gully Chardonnay. 90/100. $36. Showed a sweet but fragrant nose more evidence of oak but was all butterscotch, pineapple and lemon. Of the reds the 2020 Fire Gully Cabernet Reserve. 96/100. VALUE $48, was lovely. Rich, long, medium drink now body, with layers of tobacco and olives.Finished long and lingering. Don’t pass the 2020 Cabernet/Merlot by either at $39.

Woodlands

I just adore wines from this producer and I was not disappointed. Sarah who hosted, was happy to show the whole range including the top end expensive Chardonnay and Cabernets.

Established in 1973, the vineyard specialises in Bordeaux blends and uses the same first plantings in 1973. I noticed that they are on Langton’s Classification of Fine Wines – if you believe in that stuff. The Houghton (see at top of Bloclone dominates the red wines.

There is no doubt the 2018 Margaret Blend 80% Cab/10% Merlot/10% Malbec. 96/100. VALUE $59 was great. Deep colour with blackberry prominent on the nose followed by a palate that was powerful exhibiting more blackberry but a long and velvety finish. The classy 2018 Ruby Jane Cabernet is $169 and the 2016 Clementine Eloise Cabernet $189 are for those who want to impress.

To save on the rack price you must be a Wine Club member. Now be warned, there are so many options to become a club member that it was confusing with all sorts of different categories and entry price points. It was a heavy sales spiel accompanied by an equally confusing colour brochure.

I hope you are still with me!

Woody Nook.

Woody Nook Wines (Margaret River): All You Need to Know An old fashion style cellar door, not like the flash modern tasting facilities which dominate the region.  I popped in here for a very generous platter lunch and to reacquaint myself the 2018 Gallagher’s Choice Cabernet 94/100. $55. which I purchase most years. Hand picked from 30+ year old vines, this is a classic, full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon. It is vibrant and complex comprising blackcurrant, eucalypt  and well integrated French oak.   They also have an ‘Adopt a Vine’ program.  And 13 wines to suit all tastes.

Thompson Estate

Winemaker Peter Thompson was in Adelaide but took the time to conduct a tasting by video from his car! Brilliant innovation.

Two wines from a stable of 16 stood out. the 2022 Specialist Chardonnay 89/100. $38, minimum oak treatment  showed big early development while the 2018 (that year again) Estate Cabernet 90/100 VALUE $44 had all the hallmarks of the region. Another, the 2019 Specialist Cabernet 95/100. $76 deep crimson red and here comes that black current, jucicy flavours again  topped with chocolate.

This wine has won 6 gold medals from various Australian wine she and was the best cabernet at the 2021 Royal Melbourne Show.

Vasse Felix

I am told Vasse Felix contributes just 3% to Australia’s total wine production, however commands over 20% of the premium market. It has four sites around the region from which the range of Icon, Premier, Filius and Classic are made. Vasse Felix is Margaret River’s founding wine estate first planted in 1967.

A friend of mine organised vertical tasting of  8 wines in The Vault, an underground cellar with a flash, well decorated tasting room opposite. So let’s check out some of the wines.

2021 Icon Heytesbury Chardonnay, 90/100 $88. Only 6000 bottles made. Pronounced slight oak nose but carries the fruit right through the palate and will go for 15 years. 2021 Premier Chardonnay. 92/100. VALUE $36. 

Immediately crisp, and clean with bright acidity and a nice fruit line with a dry finish. Five year window, drink now. 2022 Filius Chardonnay. 89/100. $24. Bottled in January this year so has some development to go. Gingin clone, 36% new oak, friendly wine without too much length. 89/100. $24.

2019 Icon Tom Cullity.95/100.$160. 78% Cabernet, 22% Malbec. 56 year vines. Beautifully balanced, fruit explosion of black currant, chocolate and sweet aromatic oak finish which lingers. Needs time to open. Plus 10 years. If only I had the money. 2020 Premium Cabernet. 87/100. $44. 13% Malbec. Finishes very dry, and length drops away quickly. 2020 Filius Cabernet 87/100. $24. 5% Malbec. Made for a price point. Bright colour and fruity.

Juniper

Mark Messenger the winemaker has a stable of 27 wines across 6 ranges. Naturally I concentrated on the top ranges of Cornerstone and Heritage. 2016 Cornerstone Wiyabrup Cabernet. 87/100. $68. Full of chocolate and liquorice, too big and tannic. 2018 Heritage Aquitaine Cabernet Blend. 92/100. VALUE $34. Dense purple red in colour. Rich, ripe aromas of dark chocolate, with cherries lead into a medium-bodied palate. Plenty of cellaring potential. 2018 Karridale Cabernet. 93/100. $53. Deep red in colour, showing, vanilla, spice and cedar. Medium-bodied with dense blackberry and tremendous length. The 2021 Cornerstone Wilyabrup Chardonnay $45 was clean but dry and the 2020 Karridale Chardonnay had a slight barn yard nose. Very obliging cellar door who readily agreed to ship my assorted wines back to Melbourne.

 Summary

There is no doubt that this is the place for great Chardonnay and Cabernet. 2018 was one of the greatest years in Margaret River so always look out for wines of that year. Beware, almost all cellars charge a tasting fee per head – some $15, but refundable on purchase. Almost all will encourage you to join their Wine Club which does make the unit price per bottle much cheaper. That is of course you if don’t mind being bombarded with emails and telemarketers trying to sell you ‘specials’. Some of the Club membership offers were confusing such as the Woodlands experience so tread carefully. Vineyard of the trip goes to Domain Naturalist for quality and price.

Let me know what you think by responding in the comments section of the page. 

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Wine grumblings into 2023

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Royal Adelaide Wine Show winners announced

Boutique wine producers have taken home many of the gongs at South Australia’s annual wine show with a small Clare Valley winery, established less than 20 years ago, claiming one of the most prestigious trophies.

Naked Run Wines won the Gramp, Hardy, Hill Smith Prize for National White Wine of Provenance for the 2022, 2015 and 2012 vintages of The First Riesling, made from single vineyard fruit grown at Sevenhill.

The Max Schubert AM Trophy for Most Outstanding Red Wine in Show was won by another boutique producer, Sutton Grange Winery from Central Victoria, for their Sutton Grange Estate Syrah 2019. They also won the Best Shiraz and Best Shiraz 2019 and Older trophies.

The Red Wine of Provenance trophy was won by wine industry legend, Hardy’s, for the 2020, 2014 and 2008 vintages of their Eileen Hardy Shiraz.

The George Fairbrother Memorial Trophy for Most Outstanding White Wine in Show was won by Penfold’s for their Penfold’s Bin A Chardonnay 2021. They also took home the Governor’s Trophy for Best South Australian White Wine in Show and Best Chardonnay in Show.

Hentley Farm won the Governor’s Trophy for Best South Australian Red Wine in Show with their The Stray Grenache Shiraz 2021, as well as the Best Other Red Blend in Show title.

For gin drinkers The Champion Spirit of Show trophy was won by Prohibition Liquor Co for their Juniperus Gin.

The full list of winning wines

THE GOVERNOR’S TROPHY for BEST SOUTH AUSTRALIAN WHITE WINE IN SHOW
Won by – Penfolds Wines – Bin A Chardonnay 2021

THE GOVERNOR’S TROPHY for BEST SOUTH AUSTRALIAN RED WINE IN SHOW
Won by – Hentley Farm – The Stray Grenache Shiraz 2021

THE TAFE SA TROPHY for CHAMPION SPIRIT OF SHOW
Won by – Prohibition Liquor Co Juniperus Gin

THE GEORGE FAIRBROTHER MEMORIAL TROPHY for MOST OUTSTANDING WHITE WINE IN SHOW
Won by – Penfolds Wines – Bin A Chardonnay 2021

THE MAX SCHUBERT AM TROPHY for MOST OUTSTANDING RED WINE IN SHOW
Won by – Sutton Grange Winery – Sutton Grange Estate Syrah 2019

THE GRAMP, HARDY, HILL SMITH PRIZE for NATIONAL WHITE WINE OF PROVENANCE
Won By – Naked Run Wines – The First Riesling 2022, 2015, 2012

THE GRAMP, HARDY, HILL SMITH PRIZE for NATIONAL RED WINE OF PROVENANCE
Won By – Hardys Eileen Hardy Shiraz 2020, 2014, 2008

The 2022 Royal Adelaide Wine Show Trophy Results

THE AFFINITY LABS TROPHY for BEST RIESLING IN SHOW
Won by – Grant Burge – The Vigneron Reserve Riesling 2017

THE SEGUIN MOREAU TROPHY for BEST CHARDONNAY IN SHOW
Won by – Penfolds Wines – Bin A Chardonnay 2021

THE FINLAYSONS TROPHY for BEST SEMILLON IN SHOW
Won by – Tyrrells Vineyards – Vat 1 Semillon 2013

THE BDO TROPHY for BEST DRY WHITE BLEND IN SHOW
Won by – Robert Oatley Vineyard – Robert Oatley Signature Series Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2022

THE ARKABA CELLARS TROPHY for BEST SAUVIGNON BLANC IN SHOW
Won by – Dural Wines – Saint & Scholar Sauvignon Blanc 2022

THE PROGRAMMED PROPERTY SERVICES TROPHY for BEST OTHER VARIETAL WHITE IN SHOW –  Won by  Tomfoolery Wines – Fox Whistle Pinot Gris 2022

THE BRAUD AUSTRALIA TROPHY for BEST SWEET WHITE TABLE WINE IN SHOW
Won by – De Bortoli Wines – Noble One Semillon 2020

THE PIPER ALDERMAN TROPHY for BEST ROSE IN SHOW
Won by – Paulett Wines – Sangiovese Rose 2022

THE HURTLE & NORMAN WALKER TROPHY for BEST SPARKLING WINE IN SHOW
Won by – Golding Wines – Marjorie Blanc De Blancs Chardonnay 2016

THE LALLEMAND TROPHY for BEST PINOT NOIR IN SHOW
Won by – Coles Liquor – James Busby ‘Vineyard Series’ Tasmania Pinot Noir 2021

THE TILBROOK RASHEED TROPHY for BEST GRENACHE IN SHOW
Won by – Seppeltsfield Wines – Barossa Grenache 2022

THE RADOUX AUSTRALIA TROPHY for BEST OTHER RED BLEND IN SHOW
Won by – Hentley Farm – The Stray Grenache Shiraz 2021

THE WINE COMMUNICATORS OF AUSTRALIA, SA CHAPTER TROPHY for BEST SHIRAZ IN SHOW
Won by – Sutton Grange Winery – Sutton Grange Estate Syrah 2019

THE PROFESSOR A.J. PERKINS TROPHY for BEST CABERNET SAUVIGNON IN SHOW
Won by – Xanadu Wines – Cabernet Sauvignon 2020

THE KARL SEPPELT AO TROPHY for BEST OTHER VARIETAL RED IN SHOW- Won by Peter Lehmann Wines – Hill & Valley Tempranillo 2021

THE ORORA CLOSURES TROPHY for BEST SHIRAZ 2019 VINTAGE AND OLDER
Won by – Sutton Grange Winery – Sutton Grange Estate Syrah 2019

THE DOREAU AUSTRALIA TROPHY for BEST SHIRAZ 2020 VINTAGE AND YOUNGER
Won by – Pinnacle Drinks – Barebones Great Western Shiraz 2021

THE DR RAY BECKWITH OAM MEMORIAL TROPHY for BEST TRADITIONAL AUSTRALIAN RED BLEND IN SHOW
Won by – Majella Wines – The Musician Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2021

THE JOHN FORNACHON MEMORIAL TROPHY for BEST APERA, TOPAQUE, MUSCAT OR SWEET WHITE IN SHOW
Won by – Morris Wines – Old Premium Muscat

THE IN DAILY TROPHY for BEST AUSTRALIAN VINTAGE, TAWNY OR RUBY IN SHOW
Won by – Morris Wines – Old Premium Tawny

Thanks to Daily Wine news
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Tahbilk 13 vintages reviewed

I was privileged to join a group of connoisseurs at Melbourne’s elite Wine Table, hosted recently at the Danish Club. The objective was to review 14 vintages of Chateau Tahbilk shiraz.

First though, some background and history of the winery which is quite interesting. Established in 1860, makes Tahbilk the oldest winery in Victoria and the fifth oldest in Australia. It’s wines have been created by of five generations of the Purbrick family, who purchased the property in 1925.

There are around 200 hectares of vineyard on their 1,214 hectare property, which includes 11 kilometres of Goulburn River frontage and eight kilometres of frontage to the Goulburn’s permanent backwaters, wetlands and creeks. Ideal sub soils for producing consistent varieties and also their world renown marsanne.

The first vines – 65 acres – were planted in 1860 by the Goulburn Vineyard Investment Company and the cottages, sheds, stables and blacksmith shop seen on the property today were all constructed between 1860 and 1865.

Throughout the 1870s, with the takeover of the Bear family and the employment of winemaker François Coueslant, more vineyards were planted, wine production boomed and an underground cellar was built. In a twist of fate, the contract for this was awarded to Escott James Purbrick, second-cousin once removed of Reginald Purbrick, who would later purchase the winery.

Success continued until the mid-1880s, when a series of setbacks hit. The vine louse phylloxera decimated the vineyards of Victoria in the late 1800s and economic and political factors saw a sudden decline in the fortunes of the Victorian wine industry in the first decade of the 21st century.

However, in June 1925, Reginald Purbrick purchased the property and the new era of Château Tahbilk began. While Reginald had intended to remove the vines and divide the land into dairy farms, he was persuaded the winery was viable and offered it to his son Eric. Arriving in 1931 from England, where he’d studied law at Cambridge, Eric assumed the role of winemaker the same year. With the help of friends, local winemakers and industry legend Francois de Castella, Eric learnt as much about winemaking and marketing as possible while restoring the cellars and planting phylloxera-resistant vines.

In the late 1970s, John’s son, Alister, having recently graduated from Roseworthy Agricultural College, and with several vintages at Mildara under his belt, took over winemaking duties from George Comi and became General Manager in 1978.

Under his guidance, the quality of the wines soared. While Alister remains CEO his daughter Hayley, the 5th generation of the Purbrick family continues the tradition.

Now we have that out of the way let’s look at my thumbnail tasting notes of each shiraz vintage.

1995 holding up beautifully, soft through palate. 88/100

2001 excellent, well balanced, eucalyptus, mulberries 95

2002 sappy, cardboard, volatile 85

2003 past, slightly oxidised, cork disintegrated 

2004 soft, nice tannins, savory, drink now 92

2005 colour fading, soft the palate, but fruit dies quickly 89

2006 dark, rich, full bodied, juicy,  blackberry, olives 93

2007 holding well,  long on palate, chewy tannins, balanced, 15%, 94

2008 cork, wonderful plums and blackberries dominate, good length 95

2009 cork magnum. cherries, spice, liquorice drinking well now 95

2010 dark colour, big full stewed fruit, yet to come together + 3-5 years 93

2011 unavailable , not made

2012 barnyard nose, soft throughout, no weight 93

2013 big, long full with mulberries, chocolate and sweet up front 95

2014 dark, full flavour with liquorice, pepper, long and balanced +5 years 96

So there you have it. I must mention we had a 2000 Tahbilk marsanne which was almost orange in colour but absolutely delightful. Retaining all the hall marks of marsanne – citrus, lemon, lime, honey hits of peach, pears and apricots. 99/100 

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Wine Spectator top 100 wines 2021

 

Each year since 1988, the influential and prestigious US Wine Spectator magazine has released its Top 100 list, where the editors select the most exciting wines from the more than 12,500 they reviewed during 2021. Pictured left is the number one wine from the Napa Valley.

Its influence is substantial; many wines that feature highly in the list sell quickly in the following months, often at increased prices. (The selection prioritises quality (based on score), value (based on price) and availability. These criteria are applied to the wines that rated outstanding (90 points or higher on Wine Spectator’s 100-point scale) to determine the Top 100 for the year.

Our lives continue to be affected by COVID-19, yet 2021 has been an exciting year for wine. Restaurants are reopening for business, wine retail sales continue to outperform pre-pandemic levels, and demand from wine lovers was strong during lock downs.

But, many blue chip Australasian wines did not get a gong on this years list – the worst ever! Think Grange Hermitage (has previously been no 1 twice!), Henschke Hill of Grace, Te Mata Coleraine Cabernet (NZ) or Torbreck, The Laird from the Barossa.

Instead coming in at number 18 is a Central Otago dark horse, the 2018 Burn Cottage Pinot noir ($65) – the top wine from this part of the world. Three other local wines also featured. At no. 23 the 2019 John Duval Shiraz ($40) from the Barossa, at 49 2018 Hickinbotham Shiraz  ($75) from McLaren Vale and 2018 Thompson Estate  Cabernet from Margaret River ($30) at 74. The John Duval is a ripper and still available. Off you go….

Of course wine is very subjective so to many of you the list is purely academic.

 

Rank
Wine
Vintage
Score
Price
1
Dominus Estate Napa Valley +
2018 97 $269
2
Château Pichon Longueville Lalande Pauillac +
2018 98 $198
3
Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Martha’s Vineyard +
2016 95 $250
4
Merum Priorati Priorat Destí +
2018 95 $49
5
Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino +
2016 98 $99
6
Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne +
2018 95 $200
7
Château Léoville Poyferré St.-Julien +
2018 97 $104
8
Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis +
2016 95 $90
9
Salvestrin Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena Dr. Crane Vineyard +
2018 95 $80
10
Château de Nalys Châteauneuf-du-Pape +
2018 95 $105
11
Aubert Chardonnay Russian River Valley Eastside +
2019 97 $85
12
Poggio Landi Brunello di Montalcino +
2016 97 $59
13
Château Carbonnieux Pessac-Léognan White +
2018 94 $44
14
Alexana Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Revana Vineyard +
2018 94 $55
15
Giuseppe Nada Barbaresco Casot +
2017 95 $43
16
Calcareous Syrah Paso Robles Devil’s Canyon +
2018 94 $56
17
Talenti Brunello di Montalcino +
2016 95 $50
18
Burn Cottage Pinot Noir Central Otago Burn Cottage Vineyard +
2018 95 $65
19
Cayuse Syrah Walla Walla Valley Cailloux Vineyard +
2018 96 $92
20
Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico +
2018 93 $22
21
Luca Malbec Uco Valley Old Vine +
2019 93 $35
22
Arterberry Maresh Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Old Vines +
2018 93 $39
23
John Duval Shiraz Barossa Entity +
2019 94 $40
24
Ridge Geyserville Alexander Valley +
2019 93 $45
25
Wittmann Riesling Trocken Rheinhessen Westhofener +
2019 94 $36
26
Salcheto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva +
2016 94 $36
27
Evening Land Chardonnay Eola-Amity Hills Seven Springs +
2018 93 $35
28
Three Sticks Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Price Family Estates +
2019 95 $65
29
Sparkman Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley Holler +
2018 93 $32
30
Cantina del Pino Barbaresco +
2016 94 $45
31
Filipa Pato Bairrada White Nossa Calcário +
2019 93 $29
32
Massican Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley +
2020 93 $32
33
Ant Moore Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Estate Series +
2020 92 $17
34
Zena Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills Slope +
2017 95 $75
35
Château de Vaudieu Châteauneuf-du-Pape +
2019 94 $49
36
Bodegas Beronia Rioja Gran Reserva +
2012 92 $30
37
Rochioli Pinot Noir Russian River Valley +
2019 94 $64
38
Pio Cesare Barbera d’Alba +
2019 92 $27
39
Vermillion Sierra Foothills-Sonoma County +
2017 92 $35
40
Mauro Molino Barolo +
2016 92 $30
41
Rapaura Springs Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Classic +
2020 91 $13
42
Chateau Ste. Michelle-Dr. Loosen Riesling Columbia Valley Eroica +
2019 91 $20
43
Carol Shelton Zinfandel Mendocino County Wild Thing Old Vine +
2018 91 $19
44
Tenute Sella & Mosca Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva +
2018 90 $18
45
Quinta do Noval Vintage Port +
2018 97 $100
46
Rocca di Montegrossi Chianti Classico San Marcellino Gran Selezione +
2016 95 $75
47
MacDonald Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville +
2018 98 $185
48
Domaine de Villaine Bouzeron +
2018 92 $42
49
Hickinbotham Shiraz McLaren Vale Brooks Road +
2018 95 $75
50
Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling Kamptal Schlosskellerei +
2019 91 $19
51
Alois Lageder Pinot Grigio Vigneti delle Dolomiti Terra Alpina +
2019 90 $16
52
Snowden Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Brothers Vineyard +
2018 95 $90
53
Clos de los Siete Uco Valley +
2018 90 $20
54
Schloss Lieser Riesling Kabinett Mosel Juffer +
2019 95 $31
55
Philippe Viallet Vin de Savoie +
2020 90 $14
56
Tedeschi Amarone della Valpolicella Marne 180 +
2017 93 $60
57
Bodegas Pazo de Barrantes Albariño Rias Baixas +
2019 91 $21
58
Chehalem Chardonnay Willamette Valley Inox Unoaked +
2020 91 $20
59
Monte del Frà Custoza Superiore Cà del Magro +
2019 90 $22
60
Force Majeure Syrah Red Mountain +
2018 95 $85
61
Ben Haines Syrah Grampians +
2020 94 $35
62
Stéphane Ogier Côtes du Rhône Le Temps Est Venu +
2019 91 $23
63
G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero +
2016 97 $100
64
Concha y Toro Syrah Buin Gravas del Maipo +
2018 94 $70
65
Bodegas Ateca Garnacha Calatayud Atteca Armas Old Vines +
2017 93 $45
66
De Martino Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley Legado Reserva +
2019 91 $20
67
Bastianich Friulano Friuli Colli Orientali Vini Orsone +
2018 90 $18
68
Etxaniz Txakolina Getariako Txakolina Rosado Txomin Etxaniz +
2020 90 $20
69
Domaine du Clos du Fief Juliénas Tradition +
2018 91 $25
70
Domaine Chandon Brut Rosé California +
NV 90 $19
71
Feudo Montoni Nero d’Avola Sicilia Lagnusa +
2017 90 $22
72
Rivers-Marie Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena Panek Vineyard +
2018 95 $110
73
55 Malbec Cabernet Sauvignon Paraje Altamira Zaha Toko Vineyard +
2018 91 $25
74
Thompson Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River Four Chambers +
2019 91 $30
75
Salvatore Molettieri Taurasi Vigna Cinque Querce +
2013 94 $51
76
Louis Roederer Brut Champagne Collection 242 +
NV 92 $63
77
Marcassin Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Marcassin Vineyard +
2014 95 $150
78
Bodega Matarromera Ribera del Duero Crianza +
2018 91 $35
79
Saxon Brown Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Durell Vineyard +
2017 94 $60
80
Alta Vista Atemporal Albaneve Vineyard Uco Valley +
2018 90 $22
81
Brandlin Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder +
2018 93 $90
82
Masottina Extra Dry Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore RDO Rive di Ogliano +
2019 90 $28
83
Graeme & Julie Bott St.-Joseph White +
2019 93 $65
84
Chalk Hill Chardonnay Sonoma Coast +
2019 91 $26
85
Louis Jadot Beaune Clos des Ursules Domaine des Héritiers +
2018 93 $95
86
Boundary Breaks Riesling Finger Lakes Dry No. 239 +
2019 90 $20
87
Château Pradeaux Côtes de Provence Rosé +
2020 91 $24
88
Kinsman Eades Cabernet Sauvignon Calistoga La Voleuse du Chagrin +
2018 96 $195
89
Luis Seabra Douro Xisto Ilimitado +
2018 91 $27
90
Graci Etna +
2018 91 $33
91
Bodegas Emilio Moro Godello Bierzo El Zarzal +
2018 92 $28
92
De Wetshof Chardonnay Robertson Bon Vallon +
2020 91 $24
93
Guido Berlucchi Brut Rosé Franciacorta ’61 +
NV 91 $36
94
Château Berliquet St.-Emilion +
2018 92 $65
95
Colli di Lapio Fiano di Avellino +
2019 91 $28
96
Detert Cabernet Franc Oakville +
2018 92 $95
97
Domaine Guiberteau Saumur White +
2018 91 $27
98
Faust Cabernet Sauvignon Coombsville The Pact +
2018 93 $125
99
Krug Brut Champagne +
2008 99 $309
100
Kamen Cabernet Sauvignon Moon Mountain District Lava Block +
Acknowledgement
to Wine Spectator
Edited 
2018 94 $155
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