REVIEW. The wines of the Granite Belt

Posted on September 14, 2026 by The Wine Commander

The Granite Belt wine region is one of Australia’s most interesting and distinctive wine regions centred around Stanthorpe and Ballandean about 2.5 hours south west of Brisbane and 4.5 hours from the Sunshine Coast. It is one of Australia’s highest cool wine regions up to 1000 metres above sea level giving it a cooler climate than the rest of Queensland and as such blessed or dogged with 4 distinctive seasons.

Warm sunny days and cool nights are combined with granite derived soils which are often sandy and well drained. That combination allows grapes to ripen while retaining good natural acidity. What makes it more interesting is producers make quite a few alternative varieties that you do not find grouped elsewhere in Australia. There are 52 wineries and 151 vineyards. It is very rural with many of the cellar doors at the end of dirt roads with old fashioned cellar doors to host.

And now to the wines.

VIEW WINE ( by Sancerre Estate)

Named due to the great vista over the vineyard and rolling hills in the distance. Great comfortable accommodation consisting two cottages with ensuite  and a house which sleeps six people. It’s  location allows easy access to other vineyards. Recommended.

2024 Alvarinho.
First cuttings of this variety was in 2015. Deep lemon colour soft palette slightly acidic with overtones of pineapple. Really enjoyed this. BARGAIN. $36.00. 90/100.

2022 Reserve Gros Manseng. Nose a bit pungent and finished sweet, complex, overtones grapefruit and nectarine which overpowered through the palate and finished rich and oily. $36.00. 86/100.

2024 Sauvignon Blanc. Barrel fermented but pleasing to taste no cut grass or granny Smith overtones. Quite pleasant.  Butterscotch and vanilla flavour.$36.00. 89/100

2024 Shiraz.These vines  were planted in the late 80s. Owners Brad and Stacey Allen took over the vineyard in 2018. This example had distinct pepper overtones on the back palate with hints of blueberry and plum but finished just a little short. Nice purple colour and matured in 50% French and 40% American oak $45.00. 89/100. 2024 Merlot Stewed fruit finish. Acidic up front and short through the palate. Hard to find the licorice and blackcurrant $38.00. 87/100 points.

CLEVER KID WINES (Formally Just Reds)

A very small boutique winery specialising exclusively in red wines. This tasting punched above its weight for a planting of just 7.5 acres of which 3.5 are under Shiraz. Luke Jordon, the winemaker said  he was about to plant 6 white wine varieties. Mind you Nathan, the other owner are together known in the region as “the Clever Kids” hence the name. Good luck fellas on the venture, breaking away from what you are good at!

2024 Shiraz. Nicely balanced, rich and spicy hints of pepper showing a delicate expression of cool climate Shiraz. BARGAIN. $28.00. 90/100. 2024 Merlot. Smooth, well balanced and showing cherry characteristics leading to a smooth lingering finish. BARGAIN. $25.00.91/100.  2024 Tannat. Deep dark colour. Big, bold and strong mouth drying tannins featuring rich blackberry and dark plums. Some spice too. Food wine, plus 7 years. Yum. BARGAIN. $32.00. 93/100.

SYMPHONY HILLS WINES

What makes this vineyard particularly interesting is their willingness to experiment. They initially planted more than 40 grape varieties instead of mainstream varieties. The first vintage was in 2002. If you like unusual varieties this is your sort of cellar door. Winemaker Abraham de Klerk previously worked in Italy and Bordeaux. They also make an Amphora range in hand made terracotta vessels. They were quick to mention Barack Obama and the British royal couple tasted their wines while in Queensland.

2025 Fino. Clear colour with slight peach, but that’s all. $45.00. 88/100. 2023 Shiraz had deep purpling colour, fresh, clean, nice plum, spice and hints of pepper. This vintage was blended with Barossa fruit and it shows.  BARGAIN. $45.00. 94/100. 2023 Durif. Yes, they do make this variety in the region. This had distinct violets on the nose but sharp though the palate and finished extremely dry. $45.00. 85/100. 2023 Reserve Pinot Noir. This probably reflects how difficult it is to make Pinot in this region, more suitable to white varieties. Pink colour, thin, light style loaded with strawberries. $95.00. 88/100.

BALANCING HEART VINEYARD

One of the more interesting visits because if you like alternative grape varieties then this is your bag. It is what distinguishes this vineyard from others. Winemaker Mike Hayes was has a 40 year long history in wine and grew up in the area. There were 15 wines to choose from. As you enter you are greeted by a large lake which makes this an ideal venue of picnics and the kids. On the food side my pizza has a thick and doughy base. Avoid.

Pick of the bunch were 2022 Verdejo a Spanish  variety. Nice deep yellow in colour, full of flavour, rich with citrus and stone fruits, balanced palate. $44.00. 92/100.

2024 Pecorino. A white wine variety from the Marche region of Central Italy. Smooth, distinct fresh apples, pears, was mouth watering loaded with flavour. BARGAIN. $45.00. 93/10

 

2023 Rock shiraz was slightly bitter, finished short and dry $44.00 but the 2022 Carmenere was a delight. Deep colour with layers of dark fruits, hint of licorice and palate that lingers.$95.00. 95/100.

 

PYRAMIDS ROAD WINES

Winemaker Warren and wife Sue have been enjoying a labour of love for 27 years on this small 3 hector vineyard. They handle every aspect themselves from growing the grapes, making the wine, bottling, labelling and managing the cellar door. The 8 wines on show are in limited quantities of 190 cases or less. Warren buys much of his production from other growers. Very well priced and there were some gems among the tasting.

2025 Mourvedre from local cuttings has loads of savoury spice, soft approachable tannins, full long flavours, was juicy and will develop well. BARGAIN. $45.00. 94/100.

2024 Bernies Blend of Shiraz, Cabernet and Merlot was picked late and had juicy flavoursome fruit through the palate. The grapes were co fermented with 10% of the grapes added as whole bunches. $50.00. 92/100.

2023 Merlot. Made from 3 rows of fruit and Warren says it was his best ever Merlot year. Full of cherries and plum. Nice. $30.00. 92/100.

SAVINA LANE

Now this is a classy modern cellar door with well made estate grown and structured wines among a portfolio of 8 varieties. The whites were delicious, almost made to a commercial palate but were distinctive in profile. Best to join the Inner Circle Members Club for a reduced price and quarterly delivery.

A 2024 Fiano had ripe pear, with hints of sone fruit and ginger. Restained nose and was fresh and clean. $44.00. 90/100. 2023 Manseng Petit Mignon ( variety originated from the Pyrenees region of SW France) had butterscotch leaping out and finished with crisp acidity. $45.00. 89/100.

2023 Graciano Lady of Spain. Indigenous to Spains Rioja region and beautifully made showing spice, black pepper and integrated soft tannins which left a slightly dry finish. $58.00. 91/100.

2018 Old Vine Shiraz was the highlight of the tasting and indeed the BEST wine tasted on my 3 day trip. Made from 70 year old vines, it consisted dark chocolate, cinnamon, spice and raspberries. Alcohol 14%. Finished with a long and balanced palate. Now this wine would stand high against the best from other States. You need to ask for it from under the counter at the cellar door. Well worth the purchase. $99.00. 98/100.

 

BALLANDEAN ESTATE 

A huge portfolio of 24 wines with grape varieties of fermented fiano, malvasia, miscuglio, semillon,  sweet white wines, even  malbec and durif among the selection. Two wines excelled. 2024 Opera Block Shiraz. Was deep black in colour, with plum and spice, an intense complex wine with a palate of red fruits and pepper. $44.00. 89/100.

However the standout was  2024 Saperav. Colour, dark centre with purpling to the edges, an intense nose, rich, with lovely flavour and balance but a little bitter on the finish. It will take time for this to develop.$65.00. 88/100. Too much perfume on the 2024 Nebbiolo and the 2024 Durif 13.5%, was loaded with chocolate and needs heaps of time. Both $44.00. 88/100.

GOLDEN GROVE

Began as a fruit growing property in 1946 by Jan and Ray Costanzo’s parents. Jan and Ray are passionate and proud of their well priced wines. And so they should be, as across the selection they are very, good. Of particular interest were the reds.

2025 Nero d’Avola, from 20 year vines and a trophy winner at the Royal Q’land Wine Show. Very purple colour with a palate of delicious flavours of ripe cherries and raspberries. 14%. BARGAIN. $35.00. 92/100.

The 2025 Barbera, 2024 Malbec and 2022 Mourvèdre all rated 90/100 at $40.00. A 2025 Grenache was no slouch either. Quite floral and light in colour but smooth and well integrated. $65.00. 92/100.

2022 Durif, 14.5% stood tall as well. Dense black colour, big, bold rich dark fruits, 100% American oak made to last 10-20 years. BARGAIN. $40.00. 95/100.

THE CHURCH

The Church is a local wine hub dedicated to showing the regions smaller producers under one roof. It is set within a beautifully restored heritage church with guided tastings hosted by a different winemaker each week. On my visit Lachlan Searle from Squished Berry held court. His 2023 Manseng, a white grape variety from South Western France was delightful showing butterscotch and grapefruit. Rich in flavour and a BARGAIN at $36.00. 92/100.

The 2026 Montepulciano had a bright ruby colour with a forest floor nose. Much too early as the fruit was somewhat pungent and finished dry. Lachlan admitted that he had added oak chips to bring forward the oak treatment. N/A. There are specific regulations about adding oak chips in France and here. An individual French appellation prohibits it but allows it in non appellation wines. In Aust, yes, but on the label it usually says, ‘in oak’. No one is the wiser.

CONCLUSION

The region makes some excellent wines but I was told, it is a difficult place to grow grapes consistently. This is due to a highly unpredictable climate with its altitude bringing spring frosts, unpredictable rainfall and cold conditions at the beginning and end of the growing season. So a superb vintage can be followed by a very poor one.

I found the region was too reliant on alternative varieties  –  possibly a strength and weakness. For decades Queensland wine did not have a particularly strong reputation but as you can read it is making solid progress. So long as they stick to what they are good at.

Posted in Wine tastings | Leave a comment

International Pinot Noir Day

Posted on August 18, 2025 by The Wine Commander
It may have passed you by but 18 August was International Pinot Noir Day,  It is particularly celebrated in New Zealand as the world continues to drink more and more Kiwi Pinot.

Wine Titles reports that as consumer preferences shift toward lighter and fresher wine styles, the New Zealand wine industry is celebrating the country’s leading red wine export.

International Pinot Day  honoured this delicate yet intense grape that has found a home away from home in New Zealand. First planted in the Wairarapa region of New Zealand’s North Island back in 1883, it wasn’t until 1987 that Pinot Noir was first commercially bottled.

Still considered the new kid on the block due to its rapid rise to fame, New Zealand Pinot Noir is now the country’s top red wine variety and the second-most exported wine after Sauvignon Blanc, and now has over 1.5 million cases exported annually.

“Research shows that New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc drinkers are more likely than average to also drink Pinot Noir, especially those consumers that already associate New Zealand wines with purity, freshness, and quality – all values that New Zealand Pinot Noir shares,” said Charlotte Read, general manager of brand at New Zealand Winegrowers.

“With a consumer shift towards fresher, chillable styles, Pinot Noir’s natural acidity and lower tannin make it ideal for modern, global cuisine. When it comes to food pairing and entertaining, New Zealand Pinot Noir is a wonderful choice as it is so versatile – it’s light enough for fish or chicken but will also complement richer red meats.”

Richard Hemming MW, who attended Pinot Noir New Zealand in February, wrote, “New Zealand Pinot Noir will always, incontrovertibly, not be Burgundy. And that is its greatest strength! Whatever your Pinot preference, there are great examples in all styles to discover here, showcasing the magic and diversity of New Zealand.”

Pinot Noir is now among the top five most-searched red varietals, and demand continues to grow. Wine-Searcher data shows global Pinot Noir search interest jumped from 10.5% to 15.5% of total search market share, and within New Zealand wine searches, Pinot Noir held 32.4% interest in 2024, second only to Sauvignon Blanc at 35%.

As the name suggests, Pinot Noir is derived from the French words for pine and black. In New Zealand it is predominantly grown in the cooler southern regions, including Wairarapa, Marlborough, Nelson, North Canterbury, Central Otago, Waitaki Valley, and cooler sub-regions of Hawke’s Bay.

With all that in mind I urge you to look for and enjoy New Zealand Pinot Noir particularly from Central Otago and Martinborough. Support boutique producers not mainstream exporters which are those found in liquor chains and supermarkets.

Enjoy.

Posted in Features, Wine News | Leave a comment

Wines of McLaren Vale

Posted on October 21, 2024 by The Wine Commander

I had the pleasure to revisit the McLaren Vale region of South Australia and visit a number of smaller producers – after all that’s where gems can be found.

The first settlers to the region included a Charles Hewitt who established Oxenberry Farm in 1839. It remains a working vineyard with a restaurant which had a varied and interesting menu. Worth a stop over.

Changers are a foot in McLaren Vale with Fiano on everyone’s lips. Almost all makers in the Vale are dabbling in the variety attempting to perfect it and come up with a local style. Grenache, the work horse of McLaren Vale which never disappoints is now a shining light.

So, lets start the visitations:

Inkwell Wines

One of Australia’s first regenerative organic certified vineyards with an objective to become  net negative carbon producers. Dudley and Irina Brown (pictured) are passionate about their wine which is all hand picked. Interesting there were two Primitivo’s. 2021 Infidels Primitivo very perfumed nose. with very ripe fruit 89/100 $32.00. 2021 Road to Joy Shiraz Primitivo. 85% primitivo and 15% shiraz was big through the palate of plum, blackberry and was quite savoury. 89/100 $30.00. 2021 Pressure Drop Cabernet exhibited a fruit explosion of cherry, coconut with a smooth finish. Great structure. Bargain 94/100. $40.00

Pirramimma

Generations of the Johnson family have nurtured this vineyard since 1892 and now Geoff Johnson with more than 50 vintages at Pirramimma has bought out the family and now has sole ownership.

Geoff (pictured right) pioneered the Petit Verdot grape variety in Australia and also introduced Tannat to the Vale. Better known for its Stocks hill range it was the Petit Verdot I put to the test. The 2018 Ironside Petit Verdot had dark fruit of  red currents and blackberry. Powerful body with delightful tannins. 95/100. $70.00. 2020 ACI Icon Blend Cabernet Petit Verdot. Wow! Palate rich and powerful, hint of French oak, cassis, plum and cedar. 96/100. $95.00. The 2020 White Label Petit Verdot was dark but I found it dirty 89/100. $40.00. The 2020 Ironside Low Trellis Shiraz. A monster, intense nose, toffee, spice. 95/100. $70.00.

Serafino

A big commercial show spotting 30 wines over 14 different varieties from six owned vineyards. But all well priced. 2024 Bellissimo Fiano. Lemon and citrus throughout, but crisp, clean and rounded. One of the better Vale examples. 90/100. Bargain. $25.00.  2022 Black label Reserve Grenache. Crammed with cherry, plum and blackberry but soft treatment. Nice. 92/100. $38.00. 2022 Black Label GSM. (Grenache, Shiraz and Mataro). Sweet and peppery with ripe berries with good length. 90/100. $30.00. 2019 Sharktooth Shiraz. Big powerful nose of dark fruit, chocolate and vanilla up front. Yum. 95/100. $65.00.

Bekkers

This was the find of my trip. Winemakers Emmanuelle and partner Toby Bekker were in France where Emmanuelle does a vintage each year and were not available. However I did get to try: 2022 McLaren Vale Grenache. Medium bodied and succulent. great texture, length, flavours and tannins. 97/100. $85.00. 2022 McLaren Vale Syrah Grenache. Bigger than the straight Grenache with hints of pepper and liquorice, long finish, beautiful blend. 96/100. $85.00. 2021 McLaren Vale Syrah. Jumps out of the glass, dark, spicy, with great intensity. Based on a French Rhone style I was told and finishes smooth. A winner. 98/100. Well worth $120.00. 2021 Clarendon Syrah showed dense black fruit, lots of power, fine tannins and elegant. Wonderful cool climate shiraz. 99/100. $295.00. OK these are expensive but well worth the pleasure they bring. All strongly recommended.

Hugh Hamilton

They have got a big reputation for producing the Georgian grape Saperavi. It is a dark skinned grape variety, with intense colour and  marked acidity. It is mostly found in the cooler climates of continental Europe but Hans Herzog Estate in Marlborough, NZ produce an outstanding example. It is also grown in Victoria with mixed results.

2022 The oddball Saperavi. A unique flavour of liquorice, aniseed, chocolate and other black fruits. 93/100. $60.00. 2021 Black Ops Shiraz Saperavi. 14.9%. Almost pitch black in the glass, blackberry, hints of pepper, spice, a ripper with great mouth feel and delicious. Bargain. 94/100. $40.00. 2024 The Loose Cannon Fiano. Peaches, lemon and pears. Crisp and clean. Nice. 92/100. $24.00. 2023 The Disrupter Grenache. Big fruit explosion through the palate all cherries and was too fruity for me. 89/100. $32.00.

Kay Brothers

I have been a mailing list customer for more than 20 years and have stayed on the property, so it was a delight to catch up with Colin Kay again and newly appointed CEO Elspeth Kay who hosted. Their timeless labels reflects their timeless style. 2024 Fiano. Stone fruits and citrus with peach.90/100. $22.00. 2021 Basket Press Grenache. Intense nose of rose petals, strawberry and raspberries, smooth. 93/100. $28.00. 2021 Griffons Key Grenache. Serious show here with rose petals, dark cherries, hint of spice and rich flavour. 93/100. $60.00. 2021 Cuthbert Cabernet. 14.5%. Last made in 2011 and a Halliday top 100 wine, this was the standout of the tasting for me. Bold, with loads of plum, blackberry and cassis with hint of oak and chocolate. 96/100. $45.00. 2021 Hillside Shiraz. Chocolate, blackberries and plum scream out with hints of pepper and oak. 96/100. $49.00. 2021 Block 6 Shiraz. Full bodied, liquorice and the usual suspects of chocolate, blackberry, plum fruit, vanilla, hints of pepper. At least 10 year window. 97/100. $125.00. At this price there is quality for price elsewhere. Keep for 10-15 years and decant.

Olivers Taranga

The testing room was very busy and with limited time my hostess did not allow me to make a full assessment of the many wines available. I can report the Estate Fiano, Chico Rose, Mencia, Grenache, Vermentino all scored less that 89/100. Bottles open too long?

However the 2024 Falanghina a new white Italian grape variety to Australia was quite approachable. Nutty, with hints of nectarine, lemon and sweet tang to finish. 90/100. $35.00. The 2022 RW Bush Vines Grenache was light, and quite floral but juicy raspberries dominated. Succulent and easy drinking. 93/100. $75.00.

Dandelion Vineyards

A relatively young Vale vineyard founded in 2007 which selects fruit from five regions for its large range of 27 wines. All wines were at 20% off. Sifting through them 2024 Honeypot Barossa Roussanne had pronounced citrus nose, lots of lemon overpowering which faded quickly. 88/100. $22.00.

2023 Twilight of Adelaide Chardonnay. Perfumed nose and showing orange and apricot with restrained oak. 89/100. $22.00. I switched to the superior Firehawk Farm range, 2023 Firehawk Tree of McLaren Grenache which was far more exciting. Quite fruity, with plum, red fruit with vanilla finish but smooth through the palate. 94/100. $95.00. 2022 Firehawk of McLaren Shiraz. Nice oak treatment, with vanilla, tobacco, blackberry and plum. Typical regional shiraz. 95/100. $48.00.

Bondar Wines

In 2014 Andre and Selina Bondar purchased the old Rayner Vineyard and with it, old 1950 Shiraz and Grenache vines. Since then they have added more bush vine Grenache, Mataro, Carignan, Touriga and Sagrantino.

The wines are reasonably priced and attractive as they concentrate on the lesser known McLaren Vale plantings. However I opted for the older planted vines. 2022 Higher Springs Grenache. Ripe black fruit was quite fruity with raspberry and cherries dominating. Nevertheless was smooth and nice soft tannins to round off. 93/100. $75.00. 2022 Clarendon Shiraz sourced from the rich Hickinbotham vineyard in Clarendon which is revered in the region. Blueberries, spice, great length, hint of pepper. perfumed and smooth. Nice. 95/100. $75.00.

Noon 

There are few places where there is a waiting list to buy and a waiting list to go on the waiting list such is the quality and these extraordinary low priced and quality wines. The partnership of Drew and Rae Noon continued the family business from 1996 and only make full bodied reds from small vineyard blocks. They do everything on the vineyard themselves down to personally hand picking the bush Grenache.  They are passionate and are not price driven rather to make wine for  enjoyment.

They only open on two weekends of the year and queues form before the cellar door opens. Being a long term customer I was very privileged they allowed me to join them for a tasting. 2023 Eclipse. A blend of 90% Grenache, 6% Shiraz and 4% Graciano. Wow what a wine. Loaded with plum, chocolate, liquorice, gentle oak and spice. Bargain. 98/100. $30.00. 2023 Reserve Cabernet. Aromas of blackcurrants and cedar, has great depth, length and elegance, rich through the palate. 97/100. $30.00. 2023 M2M (Minute to Midnight). Their own own Langhorne Creek grapes were struggling to reach full ripeness so they joined forces with two friends to make this luscious blend of Langhorne Creek Shiraz. It is big, bold, dark and handsome. 92/100. $25.00. I urge you to seek all these out!  Get on the waiting list! Their commitment to quality is such that due to the unusually cool and extended growing season the 2023 Reserve Shiraz was not made as it did not meet their exacting quality standards.

Aphelion Wines

Wine making team of Rob Mack and wife Louise launched Aphelion in 2015. Prior to launching the winery Rob took research trips to California, Oregon, Italy, South Africa, NZ and Italy working at many vineyards and now has realised his dream.

In a first for me the tasting was conducted off the back of his ute with his Welkin vineyard looking on. Young vines need time to develop so most of the cheaper ($28.00) Welkin Range can be found in pubs and some restaurants. 2022 Brini Single Site Grenache. Bright and fresh hint of red fruit, quite fruity but savoury and good length. 92/100. $90.00. 2020 Affinity GSM. Dark in colour, earthy plum and charcoal. Not my style. 89/100. $40.00. 2021 Emergent Mataro. Bright red colour with big cherry flavours, perfume and plum leap out. 90/100. $42.00. 2022 Hickinbotham Single Site Grenache. Another gem from the Clarendon Hickinbotham site. Plenty of drive and length, raspberry, plum, cherry and mint tang linger. 95/100. $90.00.Keep an eye on this producer and the price which is on the higher side of value.

Hugo Wines

The original estate was purchased in 1860 and since then has remained in the family with Will Hugo and Renae Hirsch as current winemakers. The 50 acre vineyard is one of the most eastern in McLaren Vale and being 175 metres above sea level produce cooler sub climate wines.

Winemaker Will Hugo

2024 Fiano. Absolutely delightful with grapefruit, ripe bananas on nose which carries through with clean crisp dry finish. 94/100. $25.00. Bargain. 2022 Johnny Block Shiraz. Fruit for this wine is destined for the Reserve Shiraz but spends less time on oak and displayed more fruit characters. 89/100. $40.00. 2021 Reserve Shiraz. Juicy black current and plums, rich cherries and chocolate, hint of spice upfront. 94/100. $55.00. 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon. From the coolest part of the vineyard which resulted in a longer ripening period. Medium bodied, blackberries, toffee, cassis. dominate a nice balanced palate. 92/100. $28.00. Bargain.

A winery worth following and the best value for money.

Conclusion

Fiano is an emerging varietal in the region but still a work in progress. Everyone is having a crack at it and a regional style will eventually emerge.  Grenache is indeed the work horse and is producing wines the are earthy, savoury with great fruit treatment. The best region in Australia for Grenache. Whereas only 7% Grenache is grown in McLaren Vale 55% is under Shiraz. Its unique regional characteristics of blackberry, raspberry, blackcurrants and liquorice with hints of pepper and spice continue to please consumers worldwide.

Let me know your thoughts on this McLaren Vale blog by responding in the comments section on this page. Enjoy.

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Pinotage Odyssey in Stellenbosch

Posted on October 7, 2024 by The Wine Commander

Pinotage became a unique South African grape variety when a Professor of viticulture at Stellenbosch University crossed the varieties of Pinot and cinsault (Shiraz). But it took until 1941 until the first Pinotage wine was made. Some international acclaim was made in 1959 and because of that vast plantings were made but alas most struggled with the variety. Two British MW’s visited the Cape in 1976 and declared the variety had no future, so many producers uprooted large plantings of exisiting vines while only a few struggled on. With this brief introduction lets see what I discovered.

Constantia 

Our first stop. Constantia is a well-known wine-producing area and one of the oldest in the southern hemisphere. It is home to at least ten vineyards known locally as farms. Groot vineyard was planted in (yes) 1685 but as was explained the terrior is not really suited to Pinotage. However I did taste the 2022  Pinotage which was thin, with sharp tannins and a smelly strawberry taste. no score. My disappointment was noted so a 2012 was opened which was a revelation. Deep red in colour, slightly smokey and still forward with plum and vanilla, spice on the palate and smooth finish. 94/100. A$n/a. 2023 Sauvignon Blanc. As you know I generally can’t stand this style but what a surprise! Unlike the grassy versions from down under this showed gooseberries, peach and kiwi fruit. It was rich with crisp, fresh acidity. Absolutely delightful.93/100. A21.00.

Stark-Conde. 

A local friend and  sommelier recommended this vineyard as the best producer of Cabernet in the Cape. This organic high altitude vineyard nestled beside a picturesque lake showed their Cabernet Sauvignon range inside an island tasting cabin. Nice start. (apologies for the brochure photo). South African Cabernet Sauvignon show the typical

profile flavours of black currant, cherry, a dust of pepper with hints of cedar and tobacco. The two standouts were 2022 Tree Pines Cabernet. Beautifully textured with a smooth silky structure and floral finish.95/100. A55.00. 2022 Oude Nektar Cabernet. From Stellenbosch’s highest (550m)vineyard. Beautiful aromas cassis, violets and orange. Robust with big gripping tannins, black fruit enhances the length. Not for the faint hearted. 97/100. $67.00

Neil Ellis

Neil Ellis began sourcing grapes in 1984 and now selects from 4 regions, Piekenierskloof, Groenekloof, Stellenbosch and Elgin. Big show with 15 wines for tasting and picking the eyes out was hard.

2020 Bottelary Pinotage. Was totally different to Constantia. Dark plum. young red berries, sharp. But is this pinotage? 88/100.  $40.00.  2020 Stellenbosch Cabernet. Another cabernet of intense flavour of black berries, cedar and liquorice. Built to last and needs decanting. 92/100. A28.00. (Bargain). The 2022 Whitehall Chardonnay green fresh apples with cream went down well. 90/00. A35.00

Rustenberg Wines

Its first vintage was in 1781 and now make 20 different wines split into three distinct ranges. I just had to try the 2023 Stellenbosch Chenin Blanc – after all the Cape is renown for this variety. Distinct pineapple and pear finishing quite crisp and fresh. Nondescript. 89/100. A$12.00. 2021 Peter Barlow Cabernet from the Rustenberg site. Outstanding balance of oak which enhanced the fruit aromas and nice weight. Lovely. 90/100. A$68.00.2022  Stellenbosch John X Merriman from the flagship range. A Bordeaux blend predominantly Cabernet and Merlot. I found plenty of cigar and tobacco through the palate and sour cherry overtones. Lingered and full mouth flavour and was nicely balanced. I was told to wait 15 years for this to blossom. Sorry can’t wait that long. 92/100. A$30.00. Bargain.

L’Avenir Estate

Headed here as it is renowned for its Pinotage and Chenin Blanc. Located on the slopes of the Simonsberg mountains. It is a big show with wine interests worldwide, located beside a lake with plenty of space and facilities for functions.

2022 Provenance Chenin Blanc. A blend from its 3 premium vineyards, straw in colour, peach and melon and crisp citrus finish. Nice. 92/100. A$16.00. 2021 Single Block Chenin Blanc. Generous in flavour that hangs around. Enjoy the toasty overtones if you dare but most agreeable. 91/100. A$45.00. 2022 Provenance Pinotage. Light in colour, dominated with cherries and soft everywhere. 88/100. A$18.00. 2022 Horizon Pinotage. Vines are trellised very low to the ground to develop thicker skins. Those cherries (again) dominated in a dusty, bitter flavour. 87/100. A$22.00. 2020 Single Block Pinotage. Deep colour. full of flavour, excellent balance through the palate. Nice oak and hints of spice. Loved it. 94/100. A$70.00. I must also say the 2023 Single Block Glenrose had Provence all over it. Brown onion skin colour,  strawberries and raspberries made this a great Rose. 92/100. A$30.00.

Lanzerac Wine Estate

Home of the first bottled Pinotage in the world and combines a hotel with a wine estate.  Spread over expansive grounds with magnificent vista, this is another big show – well most are. In 2017 a fire burnt down the main operations but is now bigger with a spa, hotel, restaurant and deli. But what of the wines?

 2023 Pinotage Rose. Free run juice with pronounced perfume, rose petals and crushed strawberries. Not my bag. 89/100. $11.00. 2021 Pinotage. Deep colour and rich chocolate, with caramel and was juicy. Again a different slant on Pinotage. 90/100.S24.00. 2o20 Cabernet Sauvignon had hints of cocoa, but was also big, bold and spicy. Drink now style. 90/100. A$24.00.

 Ernie Els Wines

Worth the visit just for the panoramic views of Cape Town and Table Mountain to the left, Stellenbosch and Helderberg mountains to the right plus a top class restaurant for lunch on the open deck. Only got to try two wines with lunch – the 2023 Big Easy Chenin Blanc a light and crisp, apple, pears, refreshing  and uncomplicated. 92/100. A$14.50. And the 2022 Major Series Cabernet Sauvignon. Plenty of plum lurking with nice tannins with cassis and blackcurrant. Big and bold. 94/100. A$30.00.

Winemaker Elsa du Plessis shows her Pinotage.

Beyerskloof

The Queen of Pinotage generously showed me 5 wines, the best, from 4 ranges. 2022 Beyerskloof Pinotage. Deep ruby red with strong red berries and plum notes. Drinking well but not complex. 89/100. AS12.00.  2022 Reserve Pinotage. Dark red, toasty with excellent balance and a nice juicy after taste. 93/100. A$22.00. Bargain. 2022 Winemakers Reserve Pinotage. Complex, soft on the palate, nice balance and after taste gentle cherries and plum. 94/100. A$35.00. 2022 Kriekbult Pinotage. Nice aromas of red berries. Another with fine balance and lingering mouth feel. 90/100. A$50.00. 2022 Traildust Cape Blend of 33% Pinot Noir. 34% Pinotage and 33% Cinsaut. Again the trend of cherries and plum continue but this had a commercial feel about it being nondescript. 89/100. A$22.00. Chatting to Elsa there is no doubt she is passionate about Pinotage and its future having a consistent profile.

Kanonkop Wine Estate

Known in the Cape as the first growth wineyard. 2021 Paul Sauer Blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Full bodied as the  depth of flavour offered by these 3 grapes shines through. Spent 24 months in new French oak before 12 months in the bottle before release. Black current notes and cigar box result in firm tannins and a lingering finish. Delicious. 95/100. A$90.00 and worth it. They heavily promote magnums all the way to Salmanazar (9 litres). Refer to pix.

Photo of macaroons

Blaauwklippen 

Located at the foothills of the Stellenbosch mountains the estate covers 115 acres. You can find accomodation, a market, bike path, gym and vineyards and wine. Twelve varieties in fact which have been planted since 1682. A Sauvignon Blanc 86/100 was cut grass, a Rose 84/100 tannic, lacked fruit, Zinfandel 86/100 sulphur, Cabernet 89/100 very sweet berries and finished dry. 2018 DBK Bordeaux Blend. Classic Bordeaux blend, full bodied, cigar box, plum and chocolate and excellent length but was green on the finish which spoilt the experience. 88/100. A$31.00. 2024 Chenin Blanc. Peach and lemon and even pineapple gave a tasty finish. 90/100. A$13.00. Reverted to a selection of 2 gins which with local tonic water made up for the visit.

Conclusion

I found the Pinotage a very mixed bag and lacked consistency in profile which made it hard to determine’ what is pinotage’? Conversely Chenin Blanc which is the most widely grown grape in SA basically varied between sweet and dry and could all be distinguished with its flavours of Granny Smith apple, pear and tropical fruit.

The Cape Dutch architecture and history of many of the winery estates  was interesting in itself and the visas from them breathtaking and to the equal of any region in the world.

I recommend this destination for any bucket list.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Frebch oakand

h

 

 

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Retropective Wynns Black Label tasting

Posted on May 27, 2024 by The Wine Commander

The annual release of Wynns Coonawarra wines known as Wynnsday is officially Wednesday 5th June, 2024. However I was privileged to a preview of three of their icon wines with Wynns Senior Winemaker, Sue Hodder (left) as part of a retrospective Black Label tasting arranged by Melbourne’s Wine Table at the Danish Club recently.

Sue said that, “the 2022 vintage was a high-quality year without any obvious climate change impacts, so this presented a fabulous opportunity for my team to truly bring our creative winemaking style to the fore”.

She explained that the 2024 Wynnsday Collection is one of the best range of wines that have been released in her time at Wynns. “In over three decades at Wynns, I have seen some very fine wines produced, but this year’s release are well and truly amongst the best” she said in presenting three of the new release wines.

Wynns Messenger Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2021  A classically styled single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, refined and brooding, with beautifully loaded  blackcurrant, mint and perfumed aromas with a firm backbone of French oak. The palate is long with   fine tannins underpinning the fruit which shows superb length through the palate. 97/100. $80

Wynns Black Label ‘Old Vines’ Shiraz 2022

Calm, elegant, restrained and assured nose. Black and green olive nuances edge to spiced licorice. Thick swathes of dark berry and plum fruit. Creamy oak and a little dried peel. Full, yet structured and elegant. Cool climate dark fruit with savoury etching. Acid is refreshing and cleansing while the tannins exquisitely knit. Oak spice like a deft touch of seasoning. Superb now, with a fine track record of ageing so well. 91/100. $45

Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 

Wynns Black Label Cabernet is a true icon of Australian wine. First produced in 1954, it has a reputation for ageing gracefully and displaying excellent varietal and regional characteristics. Sue said that the wine is produced from only the top quality 20 to 25% of Cabernet Sauvignon fruit grown in their terra rossa vineyards. It is a favourite in auction circles and is one of Australia’s most collectable wines.

The tasting retrospectively then started. Please bear in mind these wines with the exception of the 2022 came from private cellars. The to be released 2022 was deep purple, clean, loaded with fruit dominated with plum and blackberry aromas and a hint of mint and chocolate. Frankly don’t bother drinking this now as it will need 6 – 8 yers to integrate. 10 years plus. 95/100. $45.

 1990  Black Label. Developed complex nose of dried fruit, blood red in colour, dry finish, soft through the palate, still drinking well but finished short as you would expect. Drink now. 90/100.  1998 Black Label. Nice deep dark purple colour. Still going strong with slightly closed nose, good length, rich complex palate of cassis, vanilla, and hints of dark berries and savoury. Retains good length too. Outstanding. 98/100. The 1999 Black label vintage was touted to be better than 98 but this bottle disappointed. The nose was volatile.

It may have benefited with a couple of hours in a decanter but initially it lacked palate depth and the tell tale signs of blackberry and eucalyptus were missing. There are better examples of the 99 out there. 88/100.

2006 Black label. Sue explained this was the beginning of a new era of Wynns winemaking. A cooler year, the nose was slightly closed but fruit was well structured in the classic Wynns style. Concentrated dark fruits and mint, it was smooth, long and well balanced. A ripper. Plus 3 years.  97/100. 2010 Black label. Sue said this was a bad year.but was a lovely deep colour. Plum and red berries on the nose. Good weight through the middle although this drifted away. Great drinking now.95/100. 2012 Black label. Full complex nose of blackberries and liquorice which descended through the palate. Big bold and robust red, drinking well now but will continue over the next 5 years. A wonderful example of this consistently great linage of Black Labels. 95/100. 2013 Black label. “This was wine that disappeared under the radar’, Sue explained. “It was a late bloomer and needs plenty of time to open out”, she said. This bottle was rich with dark fruits and a hint of toffee, well balanced and nice acidity up front. Loved it. 95/100.

2015 Black label. Perfumed nose with deep blood red colour. Full flavour black current, plum and liquorice. Nice long finish. Plus 6. 94/100. 2016 Black Label. From a dry drought year. Has plenty of work to peak in front of it Big, bold and complex ripe fruit with obvious tannin and a hint of aniseed. Chewy. Loved it plus 10. 97/100. 2019 Black label. Dense colour of vivid purple hue. Bursting with rich. chewy fruit. Complex and full and developing beautifully. Outstanding. 98/100.

In Conclusion.

There is no doubt Wynns flagship ‘peoples’ Cabernet rightly deserves its place as the most popular and consistent in its stable. The messenger was absolutely delightful and the best in this line up were the 1998, 2006, 2016 and 2019 Black label. Enjoy.

Posted in Features, Wine tastings | Leave a comment