Wynns Black label Cabernet tasting notes 1998 – 2016 part 6

In part 5 of this series, the tasting notes of vintages between 1976 – 1996 were posted. In this final segment I hope you have a vintage between 1998 – 2015. If so, this and previous  tasting notes in part’ s 4 and 5 will be an invaluable guide when to drink. (scores are out of 100).

Look for years you have in your cellar.

1998
What a wine!  Beautifully perfumed, florals, mint/choc notes.  Black cherries.  Balanced, complex, supple, and seamless. This is a complete wine that is drinking exquisitely at the moment but has a long future ahead of it.  Endless finesse. What a cracker! 97

1999
After such a stunner, the ’99 had much to live up to.  It did well but was not in the same class.  A little more advanced than the ’98, offering truffles and a smoky note.  Tobacco leaf and dark fruits.  A little more forward than perhaps expected, but drinking well at the moment. 93

2000
At first glance, this does seem a little more of a low-key style, but it has everything you’d want.  Some complexity, with its animal skin, dark berry, and warm earth tones.  Fungal and beef-stock characters emerge on the palate.  Seemed more advanced than many of the 90’s.  Good length, though it could possibly benefit from a fraction more intensity on the finish.   Overall one to enjoy.  92

2001
Florals and a little leafiness.  Cassis, spices, and tobacco leaf.   A classic Cabernet profile.  Are we moving away from the 90’s here with fuller-bodied and more powerful wines?  If so, it’s a direction that suits Coonawarra Cabernet.  More elegant, and a lovely flick of aniseed on the end.  93

2002
A very cool vintage saw the return of that leafiness but some black-olive and cocoa notes too.  Quite austere, and it did fade quite quickly.  Attractive but unable fully to overcome the vintage. 88

2003
Another vintage where a little more could have been expected.  Riper, but it lacks the definition of the best.  Some black jellybean notes.  Soft and supple tannins, quite fine.  Dark berries and those appealing cocoa flavors as well.  It faded a little, which came as a bit of a surprise.  88

2004
This was the first wine that gave the impressions of youth.  A hint of blackberries and animal-skin notes.  The move to more medium-bodied, elegant wines does seem to have allowed some of that dry herb character to emerge, but it is kept well in check here.  Good complexity and balance.  Fine tannins and, the pick of the decade so far.  An exciting future.  95

2005
A more approachable and easy-to-drink style than many at this stage.  Soft and slightly broader on the opening.  Not the formal structure offered by the better wines; it might not be classical in style, but it is drinking nicely.  Silky tannins.  With time in the glass, more of the herbal notes emerged, and the finish became a little harder.  89

2006
This really did give the impression of being a young wine, notwithstanding having a decade under its belt.  Lovely black-cherry notes and some fresh kid leather.  Seamless and finely balanced. but one kept coming back to the impeccable balance.  Really good length and a future as exciting as any.  Stunning stuff, one of the best of all.  97

2007
A surprise.  It was the supple texture of this wine that made one sit up and take notice.  Leather and herbs, but black fruits dominate. Think of really rich chocolate icing on a chocolate mud cake.  Good acidity. A wine that lingers well.  92

2008
A fantastic vintage. An array of flavors, notably dark fruits, but there is a whiff of raspberries swirling around in there as well.  Oak is evident, but it is integrating very well.  Cigar-box and mulberry notes.  Lots of tannins, but they melt away.  Balance and impressive length, with coiled power underneath. One for the future,  96

2009
A meaty note here, with a slightly dry, dusty character.  Mulberries and cherries.  Some aniseed.  Fine tannins, this is mid-length at best, and in the glass it faded a little earlier than expected.  88

2010
Another magic vintage; another magic wine.  Hints of purple.  It is still, not surprisingly, a little backward and closed but powerful, intense and one for the ages.  The flavors are all black!  Blackberries, black cherries, and black jellybeans.  Some leather and dry herbs and oak still evident.  The purity of the fruit is compelling.  Silky tannins and a very, very long finish.  96

2011
In decades past, there probably wouldn’t have been a Black Label, but a little was made this year.  Much lighter and more dilute, with some raspberry, spice and soy evident.  Pokey acidity and a little firm on the finish, but better than it had had any right to be. Avoid.  88

2012
The even years do it again.  Another stellar vintage and a wine to match.  Reds and purples in the color.  Very expressive nose.  Beautifully aromatic.  Cassis and cedar, dark chocolate and old leather.  Good acidity, all components well balanced.  A powerful Cabernet, set for a long and thrilling life.  95

2013
Color is again full of reds and purples.  Flavors roll through plums, chocolate cake, leather and dark berries.  Still plenty of oak evident.  Deceptive amount of tannins. Needs a lot of time and a wine that, while showing considerable promise, one would expect to show even better in 10 years time. 95

2014
Color of purples and blacks.  Bright fruit aroma, with mulberries to the fore.  Black cherries and chocolate. An exuberant style that is still extremely youthful.  A seamless supple texture and those silky tannins that are such a hallmark of the better Black Labels.  Very fine, very long.  This promises greatness.  95

2015
A world-class bargain.  Black fruits here, chocolate, blackberries, and violets.  Still very young.  It is not as expressive as the 2014, still tight and coiled, but it is seamless, and the oak is already showing considerable integration.  Very fine tannins and striking length.  Lingers nicely. Will be a star.  95

2016
Medium deep crimson. Beautiful blackcurrant, black plum aromas with violet, dark cherry aromas and underlying toasty oak nuances. Superb cassis, black plum flavours, inky textures., vanilla oak complexity and vinosity. A brilliant wine with all the hallmarks of a great vintage and reflecting the Coonawarra terroir at its best. says  Andrew Caillard MW. 96

I hope you enjoyed this special 6 part series on Coonawarra and Wynns Coonawarra Black label Cabernet. My grateful thanks to Ken Gargett, the  Wine Spectator and Wynns tasting panels.

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