Grange Hermitage record sale and more

A a full set of Penfolds Grange has just sold for a world record $294,320 at auction in South Australia. The winning bid broke the previous world record of $260,300 set in August.

The set comprises one bottle from every year since the first Grange vintage in 1951 to the most recent vintage of 2013, released this year and included a bottle from 1986 signed by winemaker Max Schubert. 
Widely considered Australia’s greatest wine, Penfolds Grange is a significant collectors’ item for investors and wine buffs and even at the world-record price the set may prove a bargain — in 2004 a single bottle of the 1951 vintage reportedly sold for $50,000.
But while the 62 vintages of Grange averaged a heady $4747 a bottle you will probably never be lucky enough to try the Burgundy that just broke the record for the most expensive case of wine (12 bottles) ever sold at auction. A 1978 Romanée-Conti  went for $633,901 in Hong Kong. That works out to an astounding $52,825 per bottle, or $8,804 per glass, at six glasses to the bottle.
Eat your heart out Penfolds!

Baileys of Glenrowan sold
Since it was founded in 1870 by the Bailey family the winery has changed hands on numerious occasions. Remember the great Bailey Black Label shiraz’s of the 1970’s
Ohhhh the memories!
Treasury Wine Estates has announced it has sold Baileys to the Casella Family Brands better known for it’s YellowTail brand.
Oh Dear!

The facts of drinking on board your aircraft
I recall many years ago flying to HongKong I sat beside James Halliday who only sipped champagne. I asked him why only champers and he explained that a wine mid-flight tastes different to being on the ground due to a number of factors. “I need to keep my palate in order” he added.
The vibrations of the plane and the pressurised cabin could both seriously alter the flavour of your wine mid flight.
According to Roy Moorfield the cabin atmosphere is about 40 per cent more dry in a good airline and it can be much more dryer in other airlines.
It dries out the follicles in your nose that goes to your olfactory gland and that’s where you get the sense of smell. And what you smell affects what you taste. Your nose isn’t as good as it could be on board; it’s not smelling as well as it could be and that affects the wine. It dulls it somewhat.
The cabin also emphasises bitterness of wine as well,
As well as the conditions inside the cabin, the micro-vibrations of the aircraft stresses wine and changes its flavour. Or more specifically disrupts the careful balance of acidity, tannins and fruit.
You don’t feel the vibrations in your seats because your seats are made to be comfortable, but when the plane vibrates it shakes up the wine.
And the wine has flavour molecules and those flavour molecules are either very tight and withstand it, or it pulls them apart slightly and the wine becomes quite dull. So you have the effect of the fruits being reduced and that exposes the acidity and the tannin.
Some varietals fare better than others. Have you ever noticed how often you’re offered chardonnay on a flight, this is why.
On the other hand pinot noir is very difficult, because it’s very fragile.  And don’t be annoyed if your red is served cold on board. Red wines are loaded on the plane with the [refrigerated] white wines.
If you get a red wine and pour it in the glass and it’s too cold leave it for a few minutes because the planes atmosphere along with the temperature will warm up quite quickly. There is no point swilling your wine on a plane. Because the air is being exchanged so quickly (at least it is on a good airline) you just need to let it sit there and it’s done the job for you. Over-swilling fatigues the wine and causes it to taste flat.
Finally if you bring wine home in the hold it won’t taste the same as you raved about it at the overseas cellar door. However it will come right after 6 months or more if you let it sit.
Cheers!

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Tempranillo bargain buy for Christmas

My love affair with Spanish grape varieties continues….
I have stumbled across a real bargain for you! First lets understand the grape variety.
Tempranillo, a high quality red wine grape is grown all over Spain except in the hot south and is regarded as Spain’s noble grape. Its spiritual home is in Rioja where it constitutes around 70% of most red blends.
Tempranillo based wines tend to have a spicy, herbal, tobacco-like character accompanied by ripe strawberry and red cherry fruits. It produces fresh, vibrantly fruit driven flavours meant for drinking young. However tempranillo really comes into its own when oak aged, as with the top Riojas where its flavours seem to harmonise perfectly with both French and American oak, producing rich, powerful and concentrated wines which can be extraordinarily long-lived.

In Australia tempranillo is taking off. There is no doubt about that.
Some of our regions having the greatest success with it are Adelaide Hills, McLaren Vale, Heathcote and Margaret River. VinoDiversity magazine says the area of Australian vineyards planted in tempranillo is increasing steadily. In 2000 only 41 hectares were planted of the variety bot by 2010 the area had grown to 476 hectares with over 300 producers making wine from the variety.
Tempranillo I find is like ‘pinot noir on steroids’. It has all the fragrance and perfume of pinot, plus a bit more mid-palate flesh, colour and tannin. I love its beautiful cherry and raspberry fruit and savoury finish without the alcohol kick. It’s so pretty in its youth, but develops complexity quite quickly in the bottle.
I tasted a line-up of eight tempranillos from Spain and Australia – all under $30 per bottle. All were decanted. All are available.
2013 Sonsierra Crianza, Rioja
2013 Rocland Estate Chocolate Box, Barossa
2017 Angoves Alternatus, McLaren Vale
2015 Elefante El Valiente, Castilla La Mancha, Spain
2010 Marques de Carano Reserva, Aragon, Spain
2014 Harcourt Valley Limited Edition, Bendigo
2007 Anciano Reserva, Valdepeñas, Spain
2011 Marques de Murrieta Reserva, Rioja
This was a mixed bag probably as the Spanish wines were cheap imports and thus at the lower range of the quality style that tempranillos can exhibit. Some were shockers. The best were as follows:
2017 Angoves Alternatus, McLaren Vale $22.00 Wine Commander rating 18/20
Bright, although relatively light, crimson-purple. A lifted nose of dark cherries, raspberries and sandalwood. The palate has luscious cherry flavours, delicate spice and delicious soft tannins. Have it with Spanish styled food or rich meat dishes. Under priced.

2014 Harcourt Valley Limited Edition, Bendigo $23.00
WC 19/20
A new release from Harcourt Valley. Made from fruit sourced from the Camelback Vineyard in Heathcote. Won a gold medal at the Melbourne International Wine Challenge!  Fantastic value and should be on the table!
Summary: If you haven’t tried this grape variety before don’t stand still. Rush the Harcourt Valley wine. Absolutely a great bargain. Enjoy.

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The top Cabernet Sauvignons in Australia

The 2017 results for the second Halliday Australian Cabernet Challenge have been released. The competition was judged in conjunction with the Langton’s Margaret River Wine Show held earlier in November.
31 regions submitted cabernets and all vintages were eligible and judged anonymously by region in a blind tasting. An incredible 362 cabernets were submitted and all are currently available.
Wines achieving a Gold score of 95 points and over were selected to determine the best of region wine, then each regional winner was judged again for the Trophy.

Trophy Winner
Mandoon Estate Research Station Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

Best of Region

Coonawarra – St Hugo Vetus Purum Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Geographe – Smallwater Estate Rob’s Block Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Great Southern – Forest Hill Vineyard Block 5 Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Hilltops – McWilliam’s Wines Reserve 660 Hilltops Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Margaret River – Mandoon Estate Research Station Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
McLaren Vale – Serafino Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Orange – Tamburlaine Reserve Orange Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
Wrattonbully – Pepper Tree ‘Block 21A’ Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Yarra Valley – De Bortoli Wines Melba Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

Summary: I know many of you are skeptical of James’s scoring since his tasting panel rarely give a wine score under 90 but this selection does has Halliday’s stamp over it.
Mandoon Estate is a flash show established in 2010 and now has an art gallery, cellar door,   brewery, restaurant, function rooms, beer garden and 32 luxury rooms. Well worth a visit.
The cabernet has intense character of cassis and violets with subtle nuances of spicy, cedar oak. The flavours of blackcurrant are dense and concentrated. Ripe tannins and fine oak add great length and balance. This is a rich but complex wine with terrific intensity.
If you have a favourite cabernet region seek out the trophy winner. You will not be disappointed.

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Prestigious NZ wine award trophies announced

Marlborough Chardonnay cleans up!

The 2016 Isabel Chardonnay Marlborough has won the prestigious Air New Zealand Champion Wine of the Show trophy, as well as the Rabobank Champion Chardonnay trophy.
The second highest accolade of the evening, the O-I New Zealand Reserve Wine of the Show trophy, went to the 2016 Dashwood Pinot Noir Marlborough.  Foley Family Wines,   with the Dashwood pinot also won the JF Hillebrand New Zealand Champion Pinot Noir trophy.
There were more than 1300 entries at what is New Zealand’s most prestigious wine show. The domination of trophy winning wines from Marlborough was a major surprise and highlight. Hawkes Bay and Central Otago were awarded only a total of 3 trophies from the 17 gongs handed out. Central Otago pinots (such as the boutique Two Degrees pinot noir), which traditionally dominate the pinot noir category missed out on the big one.
According to the 16 person judging panel (including 3 international and also 2 MW’s) these are the currently the best in New Zealand.

Go, go and buy!

Air New Zealand Champion Wine of the Show
Isabel Chardonnay Marlborough 2016
O-I New Zealand Reserve Wine of the Show
Dashwood Pinot Noir Marlborough 2016
JF Hillebrand New Zealand Champion Pinot Noir
Dashwood Pinot Noir Marlborough 2016
Label and Litho Limited Champion Sauvignon Blanc
Goldwater Sauvignon Blanc Wairau Valley Marlborough 2017
Rabobank Champion Chardonnay
Isabel Chardonnay Marlborough 2016
Dish Magazine Champion Open Red Wine
Dashwood Pinot Noir Marlborough 2016
Bayleys Real Estate Champion Merlot, Cabernet and Blends
Villa Maria Cellar Selection Organic Merlot Hawke’s Bay 2016
Fruitfed Supplies Champion Syrah
Coopers Creek Reserve Syrah Hawke’s Bay 2016
Guala Closures New Zealand Champion Pinot Gris
Saddleback Pinot Gris Central Otago 2017
New World Champion Open White Wine
Goldwater Sauvignon Blanc Wairau Valley Marlborough 2017
New Zealand Winegrowers Champion Sweet Wine
Forrest Botrytised Riesling Marlborough 2016
Plant & Food Research Champion Riesling
Mount Riley Riesling Marlborough 2017
Quay Connect Champion Other White Styles
Nautilus Albariño Marlborough 2017
Riedel New Zealand Champion Gewürztraminer
Lawson’s Dry Hills Gewürztraminer Marlborough 2016
WineWorks Champion Sparkling Wine
Aotea by the Seifried Family Méthode Traditionnelle Nelson NV
New Zealand Winegrowers Champion Exhibition White or Sparkling Wine
Isabel Wild Barrique Chardonnay Marlborough 2016
New Holland Agriculture Champion Exhibition Red Wine
Falcon Ridge Estate Syrah Nelson 2016

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Pinot Noir – 3 makers to watch for

I recently tried the following assorted pinot noirs which were from various years.  They  varied quite considerably due to age and location but may give you an idea which labels to keep an eye on. Remember, particularly from boutique wineries the quality may vary from year to year and also among other things the climatic conditions will effect the vintage
Short tasting notes are as follows:

2016 TOLLEY ELITE  PINOT NOIR,  ADELAIDE HILLS
Light in colour – a young wine with a full mouth feel but a lightweight finish
Wine Commander rating 14/20

2015 HODDLES CREEK ESTATE, YARRA VALLEY
Again light in colour. Hot red fruit cherries with just a hint of savoury overtones. Short finish.
WC rating 13.5 /20

2014 POOLES ROCK PREMIERE PINOT NOIR,  TASMANIA   
Savoury nose, with dark red brick colour,  Full bodied with black fruit and savoury characters. A long dry finish, well balanced and will improve with age
WC rating 18/20

2013 HELENS HILL RANGE VIEW RESERVE SINGLE CLONE PINOT NOIR, YARRA VALLEY
Nice savoury flavour profile but fruit overpowered by tannin. Very very dry finish.
WC rating  13.5/20

1999 MOUNT MARY VINEYARDS PINOT NOIR (MAGNUM), YARRA VALLEY
Red to brown in colour with aged nose. Surprisingly good fruit with soft tannins and a long finish. Magnificent condition for 18 year pinot but in a magnum. Breath 1 hour.
WC rating 17/20

2012 PARINGA ESTATE PINOT NOIR, MORNINGTON PENINSULA
Hot sweet fruit and bright cherry in colour .needs more time.
WC rating 15/20

 

2012 STICKS VINEYARD SELECT PINOT, YARRA VALLEY
This single vineyard wine was still closed on the nose. Somewhat tannic through the mid palate but has good length and great finish. This wine would benefit from being decanted.
WC Rating  15/20

2002 BANNOCKBURN STUART PINOT NOIR,  GEELONG
Colour ruby/brown. Was decanted before serving.
Restrained nose with not much fruit. However this wine had good flavours on the palate with a lingering finish. No need for further cellaring. Drink now!
WC rating 16/20

2011 PARADIGM HILL L’AMI SAGE PINOT NOIR, MORNINGTON PENINSULA
Red to brown in colour. hot fruit, nose and red cherry flavour. Easily pick it as a typical   Mornington  Peninsula  wine.
WC rating 14/20

2008 WEDGETAIL ESTATE RESERVE PINOT NOIR, YARRA VALLEY
Light red brick colour. Jammy hot fruit flavour with slightly sour finish.
WC rating 14/20

2013 INGRAM RD  PINOT NOIR, YARRA VALLEY
Savoury complex nose. Dark red colour. Red berry fruit palate. Short finish
WC rating 14/20

Summary:  This random tasting has not changed my view that the best reliable pinot noir regions in  Australasia remain the cool climate areas of Tasmania and Central Otago in NZ.

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