Puglia region and tasting notes

Posted on February 20, 2018 by The Wine Commander

It seems that Italian and Sicilian wines are the flavour of the month. It’s no wonder as the quality has improved 10 fold since the ones I first  tried 12 years or so ago. The price point is also a bonus – similar to buying a Bordeaux for under 10 euros in the local French supermarket. But I digress.

Puglia is a long, thin wine region in the far south-eastern corner of the ‘boot’ of  Italy and is a prolific source of mostly red wine. It has three rough viticultural areas: Foggia in the north, Bari and Taranto in the middle and Brindisi and Lecce in the south. However the ‘true’ Puglia is found in the south, below the Brindisi area.

Wines are made from grape varieties almost unique to the area. In the north the popular grapes are those used all over central and northern Italy (such as Sangiovese and Montepulciano). The mostly full-blooded Puglian grapes are Negroamaro and Primitivo while Verdeca is the only salient example among the whites.

Primitivo is a robust, powerful wine known locally as mirr test (hard wine). Negroamaro is more widespread and defines the red wines of the majority of southern Puglia’s DOCs. Puglia has concentrated, inky reds which to my mind rival the best from Australia and South America.

These wines I tasted from the highly respected and credentialed Cantine San Marzano estate are a great example of Puglia’s quality.

Tramari Rosato 2016 $17.50
National Award – Gambero Rosso Berebene 2018
Gold & Best in Class – Los Angeles International Wine Competition 2017
Gold – Challenge International du Vin 2017
Gold – Berliner Wein Trophy Winter Tasting   2017.

Light red hue, creamy, hints of strawberry and melon. Very dry. Made from free run primitivo juice. Serve chilled. Buy.
Wine Commander rating 18.5/20

Edda Bianco Chardonnay Moscatello Fiano 2016 $38.00

  • 95/100 – Luca Maroni
  • Double Gold & Italian White Wine of the Year – Melbourne Wine Competition 2017.
  • China Gold 2017.
  • Various Golds.
  • Consists 80% chardonnay 15% wild moscato 5% fiano. 3rd vintage, spent 6 months in new oak, then blended with the chardonnay tank fermented. Hints of melon, manderin and herbs. A nice crisp sharp sweet palate with an acidic finish. WC 15/20

 

Talò Negroamaro 2015 $21,00

  • 93/100 – Luca Maroni
  • Gold – Challenge International du Vin 2017
  • 4 other golds at European wine shows

6 months french oak. Very deep red colour, Great nose of cherries and chocolate with hints of spice. Very tannic.  2nd label. Definitely a food wine say with a ragu. WC 17/20

Cinquanta +1 Negroamaro Primitivo NV $35.00

  • 98/100 – Luca Maroni
  • Red Award – Merano Wine Award 2016
  • Gold – Challenge International du Vin 2017
  • 9 other golds at various international wine shows.

A blend of 2 vintages (unusual) to celebrate 50th year of the winery.  nice vanilla and toffee, fresh and clean. Drink with roast beef.
WC 16/20

Sessantanni Primitivo 2014 $48.00
98/100 – Luca Maroni

  • Double Gold & Italian Wine of the Year – China Wine & Spirits Awards 2017
  • Gold – Asia Wine Trophy 2017.

30% 0f grapes slightly dried. Deep colour, rich sweet aroma of plums almost fruit cake. Great fruit with little oak  overtones on the nose.  Finishes with vanilla up front. Nice. 
WC 18.5/20

 

11 Filari Dolce Naturale 2015 $33.50
A dessert wine. Deep red, with sweet almost porty overtones. Little residual sugar makes it too porty for me. Avoid.
WC 12/20

Summary: If you see wines from Puglia, particularly consisting  Negroamaro and Primitivo grape varieties give them a crack. These grape varieties provide robust but subtle wine and must not be ignored.  The Tramari Rosato 2016 at $17.50 is a definite BUY.

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Ullage in wine bottles

Posted on February 8, 2018 by The Wine Commander

 


The term ullage is used to describe the amount of headspace between the bottle closure and the liquid inside a wine bottle. But how important is this and what does it mean for the condition of the wine?

The ullage, or headspace, is one of the key things that you should look for, particularly in more mature vintages. If you buy from auction houses, for example, you should pay close attention to ullage as part of  your assessment of the wine’s condition.

It is the best guide you have to the condition of a bottle of wine, especially if you don’t know for certain how it’s been stored. The ullage level can give you a few clues about the wine before you have the opportunity to open the bottle.

OLDER BOTTLES

The fill level of the wine (along with seepage, colour and signs of  tampering with the label) should be the first thing you must check when buying older bottles.

I’d usually discuss with my guest if the level looks particularly low, and suggest that it would be best to open and taste the wine before agreeing to consume it.

In a restaurant it’s a risk that’s worth taking, because invariably they will open another bottle if the first is not right.

If the fill level is low, it suggests that air has been seeping into the bottle, which would cause the wine to oxidise.

You should look at it as a marker of how well the wine’s been stored, as lower fill levels (in the bottle neck) and seepage usually point to heat exposure and poor storage.

It is often the age of the wine that will determine whether ullage is of concern. A bottle naturally evaporates very slowly through the permeable cork, so it is only expected that a 40 year old bottle will be less full than a current vintage of the same wine.

In short, the ullage level will give you a few clues about your wine before you have the opportunity to open it.

For instance, a bottle of Bordeaux (shape) with ullage down at the ‘low shoulder’ (where the curvature from the neck becomes the body of the bottle) is risky. I would only purchase it if the wine or label is exceptionally rare or interesting.

 

‘Top shoulder’ is normal for any wine 10 years or older, while ‘mid-shoulder’ isn’t abnormal for a 20 to 30 year-old wine.

Ullage in Burgundy (Pinot shape) bottles is measured in centimetres, because of the bottle shape. The condition and drinkability from Burgundy bottles is less affected by ullage than its equivalent Bordeaux

An idea is if you are buying an expensive older bottle of wine in a shop (10 years old or more), line up all the available bottles and choose the bottle with the highest fill, just to be safe.

But remember, this is not a foolproof method.

What I have discussed is not a totally reliable measure of condition. Because you do sometimes come across old bottles with a very low fill that have remained in good nick.

Like most aspects of a wine, the clues can only be confirmed once the wine is tasted, but it’s certainly a help by analysing its condition first.

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How to store wine in the fridge

Posted on January 30, 2018 by The Wine Commander

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Kiwis lodge wine complaint against Canada

Posted on January 20, 2018 by The Wine Commander

New Zealand has confirmed it will join Australia in a World Trade Organisation complaint against Canada over allegedly “arbitrary and disadvantageous” treatment of wine imports.

Talks have broken down after Canada’s stance on the sale of imported wine in the country’s grocery stores.

Kiwi exporters are likely to face the same barriers as Australia by denying access to the lucrative $7 billion Canadian wine market.

“Our industry’s doing incredibly well, especially into the United States, and Canada’s obviously a close neighbour so it would be fantastic to have more of an equal opportunity into that market,” a spokesman said.

Protectionism has “ramped up” in recent years in Canada led by the various provinces.

Australia’s formal “request for consultations” to the WTO argues a range of distribution, licensing and sales measures, including product mark-ups, market access and listing policies, may discriminate “either directly or indirectly” against imported wine.

In the Canadian province of British Columbia, only the province’s wine can be sold on regular grocery store shelves, while imports can only be sold “through a so-called ‘store within a store’’.

New Zealand exporters will face the same barriers as the Aussies.

So why am I telling you all this?

Well after spending two weeks late last year visiting  the Okanagan Valley wine region  (Special Post to come) I can’t blame them keeping the NZ and Australian wines at bay. The local wines are mostly akin to Penfolds  ‘Rawsons Retreat’  and Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc!

In short, if our quality export wines were available in Canada no would buy the local product. The $7 billion Canadian wine market would be protected!

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Burgundy v Barolo tasting

Posted on December 30, 2017 by The Wine Commander

I recently was fortunate to enjoy a challenge tasting of Burgundy verses Barolo. Three flights and a bonus Barolo were poured each consisting the classic grape varieties of Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir. 

First lets broadly refresh ourselves of these two varieties.
Pinot noir is the premium red wine grape of Burgundy It is now found in all manner of vineyards, from western Germany and northern Italy to Chile, South Africa, Australia and, perhaps most notably, California, Oregon and New Zealand.
It causes more discussion and dispute than any other grape variety – most of which centres around finding and describing the variety’s “true” expression. Examples from northern Italy are undeniably different from those made on the other side of the world.
My favourite region is Central Otago in NZ where they have intense fruit explosion and a long lingering balanced finish on the palate. But you cannot deny the softer beautiful perfumed Burgundian style – if you can afford them. Certainly most Australian pinots are grossly over priced. I guess to pay for the flash cellar doors they possess.
Yet from most countries they are all unmistakably, unquestionably pinot noir. It takes a great deal of care and skill to make pinot perform The results vary wildly from watery, acidic candy water to some of the richest, most intensely perfumed wines on earth. This elusive perfection has earned the variety obsessive adoration from wine lovers all over the world.

Barolo is a traditional hillside village in the rolling hills of Piedmont, north western Italy. Nebbiolo is the name of the grape that Barolos and Barbarescos are made from. Though small amounts of Nebbiolo are grown all over the world, it’s mostly found in the Piedmont region. Within Piedmont are two wine-producing zones called Barolo and Barbaresco, Both are made from the Nebbiolo grape. A wine may be labeled as a Nebbiolo if it’s made in a region outside Barolo and Barbaresco that permits varietal labeling.
Nebbiolo and the wines of Barolo and Barbaresco are distinguished by their strong tannins, high acidity and distinctive nose. (refer to my earlier blog on Italian grape varieties). The wines can be a highly tannic and have a reputation for aging well. Barolo is the more massive, tannic and rich of the two, while Barbaresco is more elegant and approachable.
Barolo requires wines be stored for 3 years before release, whereas Barbaresco only requires 2 years. This could be because of the high tannins in Barolo that require the wine to age longer before being put on the market. Aging does more than just reduce tannins though, it also changes the way the fruit flavours taste in a wine. Barolo is released after 3 years, Barolo Riserva 5 years, Barbaresco 2 years and Barbaresco Riserva 4 years. Always double check the year on the label.  Barolo is the king of the Nebbiolo variety!

NOW LETS LOOK AT THE CHALLENGE FINDINGS.
(All are readily available and start from $25 per bottle)

 2013 Domaine Collotte ‘Les Boivins’ Marsannay
Marsannay is the most northern appellation of the Cote de Nuits sub-region of Burgundy. Encompassing the villages of Marsanny-la-Cote, Chenove and Couchey, the communal appellation is unique in Burgundy for covering red, white and rose wine. This wine was from 45 year old vines located higher on the slope.  It was ruby red in colour and slightly closed with cherries, petals and vanilla peeping through. It finished clean and soft but did open out after a good shake up.
Wine Commander score 17.5 out of 20

2014 G.D. Vajra, Langhe Rosso (Nebbiolo)
Typical Piemontese characters and everyday affordability will make Vajra’s Langhe Rosso wines an excellent entry to the Barolos style. 
It is a blend predominately Nebbiolo with Dolcetto, and Barbera, Medium ruby in colour and slightly deeper than the 2013 above. Complex nose  of stone fruit, nice cherry overtones and was long and balanced. Yumm.
WC 18/20 

 

2009 Drouhin Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru 
Chambolle-Musigny is a tiny commune in the Cote de Nuits sub-region of  Burgundy. It has a population of fewer than 400. The village produces almost exclusively red wines from Pinot Noir.
The  colour was slightly brown to the rim, and had a typical French Burgundy nose which cleared after 10 mins or so.  Good balance and a smooth finish. Long after taste, with notes of cherry, mushroom and forest floor,  Best so far. WC 19/20

 

 2012 Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco Docg

Trellised on steep slopes halfway up the hill dominating the principal valley of Barolo lie this precious jewel from the 15th century. A tiny production of 400 cases. Deep red garnet colour to the rim, A bouquet with traces of licorice and tobacco. A full flavored, full-bodied and elegant wine. Cherries and chocolate.This will go for 20 years.
WC 19.5. Sensational.

                                        2007 Mongeard Mugneret  Grand Cru Clos De Vougeot
Clos de Vougeot is one of the most famous grand cru vineyards in Burgundy. It is the largest grand cru site in the Cote de Nuits region, covering 50 hectares of land. Clos de Vougeot is  is divided into 100 different parcels owned by more than 80 different producers. and the wines made here vary considerably in character and quality. This wine was selected from the very best plots. I found a pure bright deep red colour with slight browning on the edge. truly stunning. Forest floor, mushrooms and leather on the nose and the finish revealed the complex nature of  Burgundy – all that is good with Pinot noir. Very expressive.
WC 19.5/20

2005 Conterno Romirasco Barolo DOCG
 This 2005 Barolo embodies everything a great Barolo should be. It has awesome density and richness showing plum, dried fruit and a long palate that lingers on the back. Make no mistake, this is a big robust, heavy weight wine that will last another 15 – 20 years. It actually comes across as exceedingly young and remember some bottle age is essential in order to enjoy a Barolo at its very finest.
WC 19.5/20

1997 Vajra Barolo Bricco Delle Viole DOCG
Intense deep blood red. Complex yet slightly tight closed nose showing mushroom and dark cherries. Bit of licorice here too. Finished with firm but integrated tannins, persistent fruit and excellent long lingering finish. Go another 10 years.

WC 19.5/20

Summary
A very interesting exercise. It proves to get the best Burgundy’s you must pay a much higher price than the ones tasted here. By contrast you can pick up an excellent regional Nebbiolo starting from around $22. Dal Zotto Wines in the King Valley is a good place to start your Nebbiolo experience. But the best Nebbiolo will always come from Barolo.

Drink plenty of good wine in 2018 and experiment with different grape varieties! Enjoy.

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