Oregon Pinot noir and the Willamette Valley

There are six sub regions in the Willamette Valley AVA’s. (American Viticultural Areas). Chehalem Mountain, Dundee Hills, Eola-Amity Hills, McMinaville, Ribbon Ridge, and Yamhill Carlton. I managed to cover all the AVA’ s during a 2 week visit.

The Willamette Valley is a 240 km long valley just 30 mins south of Portland, Oregon. Surrounded by 3 major mountain rangers and a chain of lower hills it is 70 kms from the Pacific ocean. Subsequently the valley has cool wet winters, and warm dry summers. The temperate climate combined with the ocean influences, combined with old volcanic and sedimentary seabed deposits with gravel and silt, provide excellent drainage, similar to the quality wines made in Central Otago, NZ.

To cover the AVA’s we stayed in two locations – Allisons Inn and Spa in Newberg (exceptional quality hotel with first class food and wine) and Chehalem Ridge B & B located up a windy mountain with lovely views. The hostess Kristin, I found, was often rude, uncooperative, antagonistic, inhospitable, and cantankerous and was straight out of Faulty Towers but not funny! Not a good choice.

THE WINERIES

BELL’s UP. Smallest of the 700 vineyards scattered throughout the valley. Dave the winemaker sources his grapes from micro growers north of the valley. Every wine was named after a piece of classical music – nice, but it’s what in the bottle that counts! Dave admitted he is still learning his trade.

Meet Dave at ‘Bells Up’ the smallest of the 700 vineyards in the Willamette Valley.

At VIDON in the Chehalem Mts, winemakers Don and Dave showed us a delightful 2012 pinot. The 2014 scored 94 in Wine Spectator. Matt Hunter winemaker at at J CHRISTOPHER at Chehalem AVA provided great 2008 and 2014 pinots. One of the few wineries making Sauvignon Blanc based on the Sancerre style. Not bad either. ARAMENTA vineyard at Ribbon Ridge AVA is a family farm converted to a winery in 2002. Specialised in small run individual single clone runs. Dan at UTOPIA  vineyard – also Ribbon Ridge makes only 200 cases of pinot, Chardonnay, and a lovely dry Rose. Good value.

Simple but inviting at Patrica Green.

PATRICIA GREEN  is another quality Ribbon Ridge producer. A blender using many local growers across all the AVA’s. Sadly Patty who showed us her wines died suddenly recently after suffering a fall. Lovely lady. BERGSTROM wines. A lot of hype, “you must visit without fail”. Sorry, but this was an expensive show with pinots starting at US$90 – $250. Better quality and value elsewhere.

BEAUX FRERES vineyard was the highlight in the valley for quality elegant pinots that we tasted. But, all were priced US$75 up. Standouts here were the Upper Terrace and Valley vineyard pinots. Silky and vibrant with dark purple colour, black currents, full bodied and made for 10 years plus. Pity we can’t get them in Aust or NZ. SOKOL BLOSSER at Dundee AVA.  Emille – with the delightful front of house title of ‘Event Captain ‘- entertained us in a very flash architecturally designed tasting room with a deck to boot overlooking a spectacular view of the valley. It past muster on the pinots with the 2015 Peach Tree Block US$80 the pick.

Best view in Dundee Hills from White Rose Estate

WHITE ROSE ESTATE in Dundee Hills had a very pokey dark tasting room but made up for it with probably the best view of the valley. There was a coach drop area for tourists to snap merrily away. Unfortunately the wine was way short of the view in quality. WINDERLEA vineyard, Dundee Hills. Scottish John, who had a title to rival mine called himself “lead tasting room ambassador” showed us an excellent 2015 pinot blanc and chardonnay. But with 10 different straight cloned pinots it was overload. I didn’t know if I was coming or going. Fortunately the last visit of the day!

Scottish John – lead tasting room ambassador’

Mo Ayoub at his AYOUB vineyard, Dundee Hills – now what a super salesman this bloke is. Showed his 6 pinots on his kitchen table. The 2015 estate pinot scored 94pts with Wine Spectacular magazine. Appointment only and beware the hard sell. Starts at US $55.

Mo Ayoub. Sells pinot from his his kitchen table.

EMINENT DOMAINE vineyard has a flash multi million dollar tasting room. Another great flight of 4 pinots each of a different clone. Affordable average price point of US$45.  We were hosted at NATIVE FLORA in Yamhill by Denise, President of the  Dundee Hills Wine Association. She showed us her wines in her secluded house, hidden away up in the Dundee hills. Her 5 wines poured under Coravin were restrained and of a higher acid style.

The vineyard at Colene Clements. Excellent examples of pinot noir.

COLENE CLEMENTS, Yamhill. Right up with Beaux Freres in quality. The 2015 Victoria pinot was sensational. A tasting here will cost you US$10 each and a premium flight US$50 per head! Four beautifully made pinots and highly rated in the US.

SUMMARY

I found the area covered a variety of styles, from light fruit driven wines to more concentrated examples from older vines. These displayed intense fruit flavours, earthy mushroom notes, fine grain tannins and acidity. Much more fleshy than Burgundy pinots and more along the Central Otago style.

The cost of the wines is comparable to Aust and NZ but US$40 upwards. The sad part is that it is difficult to access the very best of Oregon  pinots in Aust or NZ. The US unit cost, state laws, marketing, transport, storage and distribution costs among others means that on the shelf it is just too expensive when compared to Tasmanian and Central Otago products. I concentrated on the smaller producers – most were accessible by appointment only. Most places hit you with a tasting fee which can cost you US$10 per head.

Wonderful 2 weeks!

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Puglia region and tasting notes

It seems that Italian and Sicilian wines are the flavour of the month. It’s no wonder as the quality has improved 10 fold since the ones I first  tried 12 years or so ago. The price point is also a bonus – similar to buying a Bordeaux for under 10 euros in the local French supermarket. But I digress.

Puglia is a long, thin wine region in the far south-eastern corner of the ‘boot’ of  Italy and is a prolific source of mostly red wine. It has three rough viticultural areas: Foggia in the north, Bari and Taranto in the middle and Brindisi and Lecce in the south. However the ‘true’ Puglia is found in the south, below the Brindisi area.

Wines are made from grape varieties almost unique to the area. In the north the popular grapes are those used all over central and northern Italy (such as Sangiovese and Montepulciano). The mostly full-blooded Puglian grapes are Negroamaro and Primitivo while Verdeca is the only salient example among the whites.

Primitivo is a robust, powerful wine known locally as mirr test (hard wine). Negroamaro is more widespread and defines the red wines of the majority of southern Puglia’s DOCs. Puglia has concentrated, inky reds which to my mind rival the best from Australia and South America.

These wines I tasted from the highly respected and credentialed Cantine San Marzano estate are a great example of Puglia’s quality.

Tramari Rosato 2016 $17.50
National Award – Gambero Rosso Berebene 2018
Gold & Best in Class – Los Angeles International Wine Competition 2017
Gold – Challenge International du Vin 2017
Gold – Berliner Wein Trophy Winter Tasting   2017.

Light red hue, creamy, hints of strawberry and melon. Very dry. Made from free run primitivo juice. Serve chilled. Buy.
Wine Commander rating 18.5/20

Edda Bianco Chardonnay Moscatello Fiano 2016 $38.00

  • 95/100 – Luca Maroni
  • Double Gold & Italian White Wine of the Year – Melbourne Wine Competition 2017.
  • China Gold 2017.
  • Various Golds.
  • Consists 80% chardonnay 15% wild moscato 5% fiano. 3rd vintage, spent 6 months in new oak, then blended with the chardonnay tank fermented. Hints of melon, manderin and herbs. A nice crisp sharp sweet palate with an acidic finish. WC 15/20

 

Talò Negroamaro 2015 $21,00

  • 93/100 – Luca Maroni
  • Gold – Challenge International du Vin 2017
  • 4 other golds at European wine shows

6 months french oak. Very deep red colour, Great nose of cherries and chocolate with hints of spice. Very tannic.  2nd label. Definitely a food wine say with a ragu. WC 17/20

Cinquanta +1 Negroamaro Primitivo NV $35.00

  • 98/100 – Luca Maroni
  • Red Award – Merano Wine Award 2016
  • Gold – Challenge International du Vin 2017
  • 9 other golds at various international wine shows.

A blend of 2 vintages (unusual) to celebrate 50th year of the winery.  nice vanilla and toffee, fresh and clean. Drink with roast beef.
WC 16/20

Sessantanni Primitivo 2014 $48.00
98/100 – Luca Maroni

  • Double Gold & Italian Wine of the Year – China Wine & Spirits Awards 2017
  • Gold – Asia Wine Trophy 2017.

30% 0f grapes slightly dried. Deep colour, rich sweet aroma of plums almost fruit cake. Great fruit with little oak  overtones on the nose.  Finishes with vanilla up front. Nice. 
WC 18.5/20

 

11 Filari Dolce Naturale 2015 $33.50
A dessert wine. Deep red, with sweet almost porty overtones. Little residual sugar makes it too porty for me. Avoid.
WC 12/20

Summary: If you see wines from Puglia, particularly consisting  Negroamaro and Primitivo grape varieties give them a crack. These grape varieties provide robust but subtle wine and must not be ignored.  The Tramari Rosato 2016 at $17.50 is a definite BUY.

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Ullage in wine bottles

 


The term ullage is used to describe the amount of headspace between the bottle closure and the liquid inside a wine bottle. But how important is this and what does it mean for the condition of the wine?

The ullage, or headspace, is one of the key things that you should look for, particularly in more mature vintages. If you buy from auction houses, for example, you should pay close attention to ullage as part of  your assessment of the wine’s condition.

It is the best guide you have to the condition of a bottle of wine, especially if you don’t know for certain how it’s been stored. The ullage level can give you a few clues about the wine before you have the opportunity to open the bottle.

OLDER BOTTLES

The fill level of the wine (along with seepage, colour and signs of  tampering with the label) should be the first thing you must check when buying older bottles.

I’d usually discuss with my guest if the level looks particularly low, and suggest that it would be best to open and taste the wine before agreeing to consume it.

In a restaurant it’s a risk that’s worth taking, because invariably they will open another bottle if the first is not right.

If the fill level is low, it suggests that air has been seeping into the bottle, which would cause the wine to oxidise.

You should look at it as a marker of how well the wine’s been stored, as lower fill levels (in the bottle neck) and seepage usually point to heat exposure and poor storage.

It is often the age of the wine that will determine whether ullage is of concern. A bottle naturally evaporates very slowly through the permeable cork, so it is only expected that a 40 year old bottle will be less full than a current vintage of the same wine.

In short, the ullage level will give you a few clues about your wine before you have the opportunity to open it.

For instance, a bottle of Bordeaux (shape) with ullage down at the ‘low shoulder’ (where the curvature from the neck becomes the body of the bottle) is risky. I would only purchase it if the wine or label is exceptionally rare or interesting.

 

‘Top shoulder’ is normal for any wine 10 years or older, while ‘mid-shoulder’ isn’t abnormal for a 20 to 30 year-old wine.

Ullage in Burgundy (Pinot shape) bottles is measured in centimetres, because of the bottle shape. The condition and drinkability from Burgundy bottles is less affected by ullage than its equivalent Bordeaux

An idea is if you are buying an expensive older bottle of wine in a shop (10 years old or more), line up all the available bottles and choose the bottle with the highest fill, just to be safe.

But remember, this is not a foolproof method.

What I have discussed is not a totally reliable measure of condition. Because you do sometimes come across old bottles with a very low fill that have remained in good nick.

Like most aspects of a wine, the clues can only be confirmed once the wine is tasted, but it’s certainly a help by analysing its condition first.

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How to store wine in the fridge

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Kiwis lodge wine complaint against Canada

New Zealand has confirmed it will join Australia in a World Trade Organisation complaint against Canada over allegedly “arbitrary and disadvantageous” treatment of wine imports.

Talks have broken down after Canada’s stance on the sale of imported wine in the country’s grocery stores.

Kiwi exporters are likely to face the same barriers as Australia by denying access to the lucrative $7 billion Canadian wine market.

“Our industry’s doing incredibly well, especially into the United States, and Canada’s obviously a close neighbour so it would be fantastic to have more of an equal opportunity into that market,” a spokesman said.

Protectionism has “ramped up” in recent years in Canada led by the various provinces.

Australia’s formal “request for consultations” to the WTO argues a range of distribution, licensing and sales measures, including product mark-ups, market access and listing policies, may discriminate “either directly or indirectly” against imported wine.

In the Canadian province of British Columbia, only the province’s wine can be sold on regular grocery store shelves, while imports can only be sold “through a so-called ‘store within a store’’.

New Zealand exporters will face the same barriers as the Aussies.

So why am I telling you all this?

Well after spending two weeks late last year visiting  the Okanagan Valley wine region  (Special Post to come) I can’t blame them keeping the NZ and Australian wines at bay. The local wines are mostly akin to Penfolds  ‘Rawsons Retreat’  and Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc!

In short, if our quality export wines were available in Canada no would buy the local product. The $7 billion Canadian wine market would be protected!

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