REVIEW. The wines of the Granite Belt

The Granite Belt wine region is one of Australia’s most interesting and distinctive wine regions centred around Stanthorpe and Ballandean about 2.5 hours south west of Brisbane and 4.5 hours from the Sunshine Coast. It is one of Australia’s highest cool wine regions up to 1000 metres above sea level giving it a cooler climate than the rest of Queensland and as such blessed or dogged with 4 distinctive seasons.

Warm sunny days and cool nights are combined with granite derived soils which are often sandy and well drained. That combination allows grapes to ripen while retaining good natural acidity. What makes it more interesting is producers make quite a few alternative varieties that you do not find grouped elsewhere in Australia. There are 52 wineries and 151 vineyards. It is very rural with many of the cellar doors at the end of dirt roads with old fashioned cellar doors to host.

And now to the wines.

VIEW WINE ( by Sancerre Estate)

Named due to the great vista over the vineyard and rolling hills in the distance. Great comfortable accommodation consisting two cottages with ensuite  and a house which sleeps six people. It’s  location allows easy access to other vineyards. Recommended.

2024 Alvarinho.
First cuttings of this variety was in 2015. Deep lemon colour soft palette slightly acidic with overtones of pineapple. Really enjoyed this. BARGAIN. $36.00. 90/100.

2022 Reserve Gros Manseng. Nose a bit pungent and finished sweet, complex, overtones grapefruit and nectarine which overpowered through the palate and finished rich and oily. $36.00. 86/100.

2024 Sauvignon Blanc. Barrel fermented but pleasing to taste no cut grass or granny Smith overtones. Quite pleasant.  Butterscotch and vanilla flavour.$36.00. 89/100

2024 Shiraz.These vines  were planted in the late 80s. Owners Brad and Stacey Allen took over the vineyard in 2018. This example had distinct pepper overtones on the back palate with hints of blueberry and plum but finished just a little short. Nice purple colour and matured in 50% French and 40% American oak $45.00. 89/100. 2024 Merlot Stewed fruit finish. Acidic up front and short through the palate. Hard to find the licorice and blackcurrant $38.00. 87/100 points.

CLEVER KID WINES (Formally Just Reds)

A very small boutique winery specialising exclusively in red wines. This tasting punched above its weight for a planting of just 7.5 acres of which 3.5 are under Shiraz. Luke Jordon, the winemaker said  he was about to plant 6 white wine varieties. Mind you Nathan, the other owner are together known in the region as “the Clever Kids” hence the name. Good luck fellas on the venture, breaking away from what you are good at!

2024 Shiraz. Nicely balanced, rich and spicy hints of pepper showing a delicate expression of cool climate Shiraz. BARGAIN. $28.00. 90/100. 2024 Merlot. Smooth, well balanced and showing cherry characteristics leading to a smooth lingering finish. BARGAIN. $25.00.91/100.  2024 Tannat. Deep dark colour. Big, bold and strong mouth drying tannins featuring rich blackberry and dark plums. Some spice too. Food wine, plus 7 years. Yum. BARGAIN. $32.00. 93/100.

SYMPHONY HILLS WINES

What makes this vineyard particularly interesting is their willingness to experiment. They initially planted more than 40 grape varieties instead of mainstream varieties. The first vintage was in 2002. If you like unusual varieties this is your sort of cellar door. Winemaker Abraham de Klerk previously worked in Italy and Bordeaux. They also make an Amphora range in hand made terracotta vessels. They were quick to mention Barack Obama and the British royal couple tasted their wines while in Queensland.

2025 Fino. Clear colour with slight peach, but that’s all. $45.00. 88/100. 2023 Shiraz had deep purpling colour, fresh, clean, nice plum, spice and hints of pepper. This vintage was blended with Barossa fruit and it shows.  BARGAIN. $45.00. 94/100. 2023 Durif. Yes, they do make this variety in the region. This had distinct violets on the nose but sharp though the palate and finished extremely dry. $45.00. 85/100. 2023 Reserve Pinot Noir. This probably reflects how difficult it is to make Pinot in this region, more suitable to white varieties. Pink colour, thin, light style loaded with strawberries. $95.00. 88/100.

BALANCING HEART VINEYARD

One of the more interesting visits because if you like alternative grape varieties then this is your bag. It is what distinguishes this vineyard from others. Winemaker Mike Hayes was has a 40 year long history in wine and grew up in the area. There were 15 wines to choose from. As you enter you are greeted by a large lake which makes this an ideal venue of picnics and the kids. On the food side my pizza has a thick and doughy base. Avoid.

Pick of the bunch were 2022 Verdejo a Spanish  variety. Nice deep yellow in colour, full of flavour, rich with citrus and stone fruits, balanced palate. $44.00. 92/100.

2024 Pecorino. A white wine variety from the Marche region of Central Italy. Smooth, distinct fresh apples, pears, was mouth watering loaded with flavour. BARGAIN. $45.00. 93/10

 

2023 Rock shiraz was slightly bitter, finished short and dry $44.00 but the 2022 Carmenere was a delight. Deep colour with layers of dark fruits, hint of licorice and palate that lingers.$95.00. 95/100.

 

PYRAMIDS ROAD WINES

Winemaker Warren and wife Sue have been enjoying a labour of love for 27 years on this small 3 hector vineyard. They handle every aspect themselves from growing the grapes, making the wine, bottling, labelling and managing the cellar door. The 8 wines on show are in limited quantities of 190 cases or less. Warren buys much of his production from other growers. Very well priced and there were some gems among the tasting.

2025 Mourvedre from local cuttings has loads of savoury spice, soft approachable tannins, full long flavours, was juicy and will develop well. BARGAIN. $45.00. 94/100.

2024 Bernies Blend of Shiraz, Cabernet and Merlot was picked late and had juicy flavoursome fruit through the palate. The grapes were co fermented with 10% of the grapes added as whole bunches. $50.00. 92/100.

2023 Merlot. Made from 3 rows of fruit and Warren says it was his best ever Merlot year. Full of cherries and plum. Nice. $30.00. 92/100.

SAVINA LANE

Now this is a classy modern cellar door with well made estate grown and structured wines among a portfolio of 8 varieties. The whites were delicious, almost made to a commercial palate but were distinctive in profile. Best to join the Inner Circle Members Club for a reduced price and quarterly delivery.

A 2024 Fiano had ripe pear, with hints of sone fruit and ginger. Restained nose and was fresh and clean. $44.00. 90/100. 2023 Manseng Petit Mignon ( variety originated from the Pyrenees region of SW France) had butterscotch leaping out and finished with crisp acidity. $45.00. 89/100.

2023 Graciano Lady of Spain. Indigenous to Spains Rioja region and beautifully made showing spice, black pepper and integrated soft tannins which left a slightly dry finish. $58.00. 91/100.

2018 Old Vine Shiraz was the highlight of the tasting and indeed the BEST wine tasted on my 3 day trip. Made from 70 year old vines, it consisted dark chocolate, cinnamon, spice and raspberries. Alcohol 14%. Finished with a long and balanced palate. Now this wine would stand high against the best from other States. You need to ask for it from under the counter at the cellar door. Well worth the purchase. $99.00. 98/100.

 

BALLANDEAN ESTATE 

A huge portfolio of 24 wines with grape varieties of fermented fiano, malvasia, miscuglio, semillon,  sweet white wines, even  malbec and durif among the selection. Two wines excelled. 2024 Opera Block Shiraz. Was deep black in colour, with plum and spice, an intense complex wine with a palate of red fruits and pepper. $44.00. 89/100.

However the standout was  2024 Saperav. Colour, dark centre with purpling to the edges, an intense nose, rich, with lovely flavour and balance but a little bitter on the finish. It will take time for this to develop.$65.00. 88/100. Too much perfume on the 2024 Nebbiolo and the 2024 Durif 13.5%, was loaded with chocolate and needs heaps of time. Both $44.00. 88/100.

GOLDEN GROVE

Began as a fruit growing property in 1946 by Jan and Ray Costanzo’s parents. Jan and Ray are passionate and proud of their well priced wines. And so they should be, as across the selection they are very, good. Of particular interest were the reds.

2025 Nero d’Avola, from 20 year vines and a trophy winner at the Royal Q’land Wine Show. Very purple colour with a palate of delicious flavours of ripe cherries and raspberries. 14%. BARGAIN. $35.00. 92/100.

The 2025 Barbera, 2024 Malbec and 2022 Mourvèdre all rated 90/100 at $40.00. A 2025 Grenache was no slouch either. Quite floral and light in colour but smooth and well integrated. $65.00. 92/100.

2022 Durif, 14.5% stood tall as well. Dense black colour, big, bold rich dark fruits, 100% American oak made to last 10-20 years. BARGAIN. $40.00. 95/100.

THE CHURCH

The Church is a local wine hub dedicated to showing the regions smaller producers under one roof. It is set within a beautifully restored heritage church with guided tastings hosted by a different winemaker each week. On my visit Lachlan Searle from Squished Berry held court. His 2023 Manseng, a white grape variety from South Western France was delightful showing butterscotch and grapefruit. Rich in flavour and a BARGAIN at $36.00. 92/100.

The 2026 Montepulciano had a bright ruby colour with a forest floor nose. Much too early as the fruit was somewhat pungent and finished dry. Lachlan admitted that he had added oak chips to bring forward the oak treatment. N/A. There are specific regulations about adding oak chips in France and here. An individual French appellation prohibits it but allows it in non appellation wines. In Aust, yes, but on the label it usually says, ‘in oak’. No one is the wiser.

CONCLUSION

The region makes some excellent wines but I was told, it is a difficult place to grow grapes consistently. This is due to a highly unpredictable climate with its altitude bringing spring frosts, unpredictable rainfall and cold conditions at the beginning and end of the growing season. So a superb vintage can be followed by a very poor one.

I found the region was too reliant on alternative varieties  –  possibly a strength and weakness. For decades Queensland wine did not have a particularly strong reputation but as you can read it is making solid progress. So long as they stick to what they are good at.

Please follow and like us:
This entry was posted in Wine tastings. Bookmark the permalink.

Leave a Reply