In Part 4 of this series on Wynns Coonawarra Black Label Cabernet we reviewed the tasting notes of vintages between 1954 – 1975.
Look for years you have in your cellar.
Now how did the vintages 1976 -1996 stack up? Refer to the notes of vintages you have in your cellar. Scores are out of 100.
1976
Coonarwarra’s first Jimmy Watson Trophy and hence wine of considerable renown. The nose is perfumed, with floral and lavender bath salt hints. The palate follows with more fleshy, cedary, truffley notes. Very soft tannins, reasonable length. Good acidity behind it. Another wine that continued to improve in the glass. 95
1977
The one disappointing vintage from the back half of the decade. The first time those green, herbaceous, capsicum characters dominated, Also a little earthiness. Not a happy wine. Some oak poking through, no great length, and a sour-nettle note on the finish. Past
1978
A vintage, like a few that follow, that should have been ideal, but sadly had that was green, lean, and mean. It is a wine that must surely have had more promise than it has achieved. Some noticeable oak elbows through, along with hints of chocolate, coffee, and cedar. Fine tannins, but no real length. One could expect a little more from a 40-year-old Coonawarra Cab from a good year. Past
1979
Welcome to the Green Machine. Herbaceous, lean capsicum notes, tomato leaf. No real complexity or length. Fades away. A wine of its time. Past
1980
A horrible nose: green peas, herbaceous notes, asparagus, but it is a wine in a holding pattern and seems likely to remain so for many years. One feels that there might be some attractive characters underneath that are attempting to emerge but have little chance of doing so. An abrupt, hard finish. Past
1981
Some dry herbals, and certainly it offers less of that extreme green of the previous few wines. A little lean and un forthcoming. Some dark fruits as well. It is a little hollow in the middle and a bit grippy on the finish. Tannins do protrude. Nicest thing one can say is that this is better than the 1980. 86
1982
This is the New World, and we have left the green doldrums in our wake. So much more attractive. Cassis, chocolate, hints of mint, classic Coonawarra. A little tomato- bush note, but it does no more than add complexity. A supple, creamy texture. Excellent balance and intensity. A lovely wine that got better in the glass. 95
1983
The dreaded ”biblical vintage”: fires, floods, tornadoes and general pestilence, A wine, that should never have been as good as it is. A slightly austere and unforgiving style, with a firm texture, dark fruits, and an oyster-shell character, grippy tannins, indeed, a little too firm all around.One feels that it will exist in this state for many more years. It is drinkable, but not in the pleasure-giving style of the 1982. 88
1984
This, is the return of the herbals. Just when you thought it was safe to go back to your glass…Asparagus, vegetal, and green notes. Possibly some more pleasurable flavors within, but why bother trying to find them? Too difficult. Disappointing lack of length. This could have, should have, been so much better. Past
1985
An immediate impression of mild chocolate, followed by raisin, prune and Christmas cake. Plenty of expressive dark fruits on the nose. Focus and length. The acidity has become slightly pokey, but overall not bad for a 30-year-old wine. 90
1986
A wine from a much-lauded vintage. There was lots to like. Some herbal, nettle characters came through early. It still had bags of life and was quite fresh, with generosity and weight. Cedar, choc, truffle notes, but just a little too much of the herbals had taken over. Fine acidity, a little grip, and decent length, though perhaps not the extent it once offered, and it fell away. A little mint crept in at the finish. Certainly a very good and thoroughly enjoyable wine. 92
1987
An ordinary year and a wine I really disliked. Oxidation? VA? Some dark berry and earthy, cedary notes but a sour, horrible, and hard palate. Excessive mint notes. Past
1988
After a couple of disappointments, this was one of the great wines. An absolute cracker. Dark berries, black cherries. Choc-mint notes, cassis, truffles. Seamless, elegant, intensive, and with great length. Impressive complexity and fine balance, the finish lingering with intent. 96
1989
If any wine of this decade (along with the ’83) had a right to struggle, this was it. A very poor year, yet the wine far surpasses the vintage. Black olives, cloves, blood-pudding notes, spices, some oak, but it is all neatly tied up. There is plenty of acidity, and one wonders if it will retain balance. 90
1990
If any decade should have sent the blood rushing, this must surely be it. Many famous vintages throughout, perhaps none more so than this one. The decade also features two “doubles “ – 1990 and 1991, 1998 and 1999, and there has always been much debate about which of each pair was the superior year. This had some gamey animal-hide notes, a little mint lingering, oriental spices, cloves, black olives and dark chocolate. Quite dense. Powerful. Very fine tannins and neatly balanced. A beautiful, elegant Cabernet. 94
1991
As mentioned, the best of this extensive tasting. Coffee bean, mint chocolate, soy sauce. Elegance personified. Perfumed, seamless, intense, balanced, and complex. The silkiest of tannins and good acidity. A complete wine. Very, very long finish. Immaculately placed for future glory. Surely one of the great Coonawarra Cabernets. 98
1992
How do you follow that pair? Sadly, with a cold and unhappy vintage. Licorice, herbal notes, furry skin characters. A burly, slightly clunky style, without much length and not really in balance. Pleasant flavors but not enough to save it. 87
1993
Dry herbs, florals, a foresty note, but a pleasing ripeness. Notable acidity here. Firm tannins. It has a foursquare structure, though it seems to have yielded a little in the time between events. A solid effort that will be around for many years. One we probably have not seen the best of yet. 89
1994
Black fruits, dark chocolate notes. Firm, solid, with good intensity. Some oak. A mid-length wine. A good, not great, Black Label, but it appears to have time ahead. The winemaking team noted that it had been a favorite in its youth, but it was not showing quite so well these days. 88
1995
With coffee and liquorice, it looks poised for a long life. A slightly smoky note and perhaps a little much emphasis on the oak. Fine now and should last, drunk fairly soon. 91
1996 (bottle and magnum)
A near-legendary vintage. Conventional wisdom suggests that after 20 years the magnum should be the preferred option. It was a fascinating comparison. The bottle opened nicely, with lovely aromas, not as deep and brooding as some of the preceding wines and with more red fruit than many others. Florals and spices emerged in a beautifully balanced wine. Silky tannins, fine acidity, and serous complexity. A cracker. 96
The magnum was far more muted initially. Dry herbs and seemingly a little more rustic. Built for the long haul. Naturally, very similar to the bottle, but not as generous or approachable today. Time in the glass helped, and one feels that in another decade, it will be the superior format. 94
How many of theses are in your cellar. Tell us about them.
We conclude this special 6 part series on Wynns Coonawarra and its Black label Cabernet in the next post with the tasting notes between 1997 – 2015.
