Violent hail storms ravage Bordeaux

If you are visiting Bordeaux this winter be aware that many winemakers have just lost 100% of their harvest.

Violent hailstorms ravaged parts of the famous wine region in south western France last Saturday causing major damage in hundreds of vineyards with thousands of hectares of vines destroyed.

This catastrophe is just a year after the Bordeaux region suffered one of its worst harvests in history with a production fall of 39 percent last year due to late frosts, which lead to a jump in prices.

The hail first hit the south of the region last Saturday at midday, affecting the Pessac-Leognan region and the south of Medoc, home to some of the region’s most famous chateaux.

It then traveled and devastated vineyards of Cotes de Bourg and Cotes de Blaye on the right bank of the Gironde river and, further east, in the Gensac and Pessac-sur-Dordogne.

The vineyard of Cognac was also hit by hail. An initial figure of 10,000 hectares (24,710 acres) were affected out of a total 70,000 hectares. They had also been affected by frosts last year.

The figures, still being up scaled show that between 500 and more than 1,000 wine growers have been affected with a area hit of 1,000 hectares in the Medoc, between 4,000 and 5,000 hectares for Cote de Blaye and Cote de Bourg and about 1,000 hectares in the vicinity of Gensac.

There are 112,000 hectares of vines in the entire Bordeaux region, the second-largest wine producing region in France after Languedoc Roussillon.

Last year France’s total production had fallen to a record low due to a series of poor weather incidents including spring frosts, drought and storms that affected most of the main growing regions including Bordeaux and Champagne.

Bordeaux wine prices rose 16 percent in the first six months of the 2017/18 season so unless you bought on indent expect more price rises from this already expensive region.

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Spotlight on Central Otago pinot noir

More than 2 million Australians visited Queenstown in the last 12 months – more than any other destination in New Zealand. While there most have a glass or two of Central Otago pinot noir.
Pinotfiles who enjoy the pinots of Sonoma, Oregon or Burgundy must now be convinced that true value lies with the region of Central Otago.
Most will know that the country’s greatest contribution to the world of wine is their infamous sauvignon blanc, but pinot noir has been making large strides in quality and recognition over the past 20 years.
Central Otago lies on the southern end of New Zealand’s South Island. The region boasts the most southerly wine region in the world, just south of the 45th parallel, the threshold for growing grapes in both the northern and southern hemispheres.
It also has the country’s only continental climate – defined by greater daily and seasonal temperature fluctuations. In some instances, the difference between daytime highs and nighttime lows can reach 55 degrees. What makes this region viable is how dry and long the days are. This far south, the sun is out a long time, which leads to ripe fruit. Conversely, the cool, dry nights help the grapes retain acidity. The resulting wines display depth, concentration and high-toned, vibrant acidity.
Vineyards this far south need to be on north-facing hillsides. It satisfys  the vines’ thirst for sunny mornings. Hillside vineyards receive more direct sun than vineyards on the valley floor. Also, valley floors tend to pool cold air at night and make vines more susceptible to frost. An exception to this is the multi winning trophy Two Degrees vineyard in the sub region of Queensberry located between Cromwell and Wanaka. Here it lies between on one side, the Pisa mountain range and on a gradient of 2 degrees the raging Clutha River. The Clutha is the second longest river in NZ and the longest in the South Island. Because of this unique location the cool mountain air is sucked over the vineyard by the river so Two Degrees does not get frosts but benefits from very sub cool nights and hot days frost free..
The second most important aspect is drainage. Rainfall drains away from hillside vines and won’t pool below the soil’s surface and drown the roots. Vines thrive when they are thirsty and searching for water, not when they have an endless supply.  On the other hand Two Degrees location is on volcanic and river loam and gravel so it’s vines go deep searching for volcanic springs. Central Otago actually receives on average just 20 inches of rain annually, half of what Burgundy, France, receives.
Within Central Otago, there are more than 20 sub-appellations, each vying to become the best. Pinot gris, chardonnay and riesling are also planted there, and thanks to their cold-hearty nature, they also do well. However these other varietals make up less than 15 percent of Central Otago’s wine. It is clear that like sauvignon blanc up north, Central Otago is officially New Zealand’s pinot noir headquarters..
In terms of style, these wines are typically darker in fruit profile than Oregon and Burgundy, yet lighter and lower in alcohol than California. All things considered, these wines do not fetch the more expensive prices of California, Oregon or Burgundy. They begin at NZ$20, which is a great starting point.

For more information and price on Two Degrees pinot noir email: info@winecommander.net

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Four Sauternes to think about

I was privileged to be invited to a line up of Sauternes hosted by The Savage Club one of Melbourne’s leading private business clubs. A group of 20 assessed a selection of wines that included four French Sauternes.

BACKGROUND 
The area of  Sauternes is a small region located on the left bank of the Garonne 40 kms south-east of Bordeaux. (refer map below). This area is crossed by the Ciron, a small tributary of the Garonne. The Sauternes appellation extends approximately on 1956 hectares (Barsac included) and on the territory of five towns: Sauternes (416 ha), Bommes, Fargues, Preignac and Barsac.
The wines of Sauternes are gilded, sweet, but also fine and delicate. Their bouquet develops very well with ageing, becoming rich and complex, with crystallized orange, hazel nut and honey notes. It is the botrytis or noble rot treatment of Sauterne wines which result in its taste and unique flavours.

  Sauternes Wine Map by Wine Folly
Noble Rot
Botrytis or ‘noble rot’, is a beneficial mold that grows on ripe wine grapes in the vineyard under specific climatic conditions. The mold dehydrates the grapes, leaving them shriveled and raisin like and concentrates the sugars and flavours. Wines made from these berries have a rich, complex, honeyed character and are often high in residual sugar. Botrytis contributes the unique, concentrated flavors in such wines as Rieslings from Germany, Sauternes from Bordeaux, Aszú from Hungary’s Tokay district and an assortment of late-harvest wines from other regions including Australia and New Zealand.

TASTING NOTES
2013 Filhot 2nd G C C 1855 Sauterne
The Château Filhot was founded in 1709 by Romain de Filhot and is now owned and managed by one of his descendants: Count Henri de Vaucelles.
The estate covers an area of 350 hectares with 62 hectares of vineyard all along the south of the Sauternes village in the Sauternes appellation.
I found this 2nd growth Sauterne (classified in 1855) light, bright and not too tight with minimum density. The easy drinking Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blend showed a profile of apricot, vanilla and sweet, candied, oranges. This is a good sweet upfront wine to serve as an aperitif which it was. A$40.00. 375 ml. WC 16/20

2005 Chateau Coutet Sauternes
Traced back to 1643, Château Coutet is one of the oldest vineyards in the Sauternes wine region. Standing over its main courtyard, are a number of towers believed to originate from the late 13th Century.
It is also home to the longest Sauternes vat room with a 110-metre long cellar that houses more than 860 barrels, arranged into four single, parallel lines. It is a big show!
This wine exhibited a gorgeous coppery colour which opened to a rich, full concentrated nose of apricot, orange pith and honey. The palate was very rich and concentrated typical of beautiful botrytis treatment.  It had power and freshness with a beautiful powerful finish. I understand that this was one of Barsac’s great vintages. A$80.00 375 ml. WC 19/20

2011 Chateau Doisy-Vedrines
Chateau Doisy-Védrines’s 27 hectares of vineyards are situated on the highest plateau in Barsac and are planted with 80% Sémillon, 15% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% Muscadelle. By   Sauternes standards the yields are very low. The Chateau produces one of the richest and most full-bodied wines in Barsac and needs at least 5 years bottle ageing and the best vintages will keep for up to 25 years.
I enjoyed the distinctive honeysuckle and orange overtones in this one. Yummm. The finish continued to linger on showing a nice orange sweet finish and superb acidity. A75.00. 375 ml. WC 17/20.

1989 Chateau Suduiraut Sauternes
Suduiraut is undeniably one of the great estates of Sauternes. It is just down the road from Chateau Yquem and abutts Yquem’s vineyards on the north. Suduiraut is one of the great wines of Sauternes. For example, the 1990, 1989, 1988, 1982, 1976, 1967, and 1959 are outstanding. It’s very rich, luscious flavours are often confused with Chateau Yquem.
This was a rich amber golden colour, with a complex and deep, mature nose, peaches and cream, slightly dry, but rich and powerful. At its peak. A$170.00 375 ml. W C 18/20

Summary
It was great to settle down and try some lovely Sauternes but it is a pity that people just do not seem to buy French Sauternes anymore. Aficionados excepted but it’s the price coupled with a lack of understanding of the appellation system in France and knowledge of the various Chateaus that I think deters people.
Putting that aside Australia and New Zealand do present some lovely late picked value wines that you will enjoy. Some of my favourites are the well known De Bortoli Noble One Semillon $24.00, Tim Adams Botrytis Riesling $25, Margan Botrytis Semillon $22, or my favourite Miranda Golden Botrytis blend $18.00.
In NZ look out for the Giesen ‘The Brothers’ late harvest Sau Blanc $30.00, or the Forest Wairau Valley Noble Riesling $50.00..
What do you think?

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Wines of South Africa tasting

It is not very often that I have the opportunity to assess wines from South Africa. This selection from Swartland and Western Cape were interesting – that is all I can really say.  One thing I did learn was 30% of all vines planted in SA are Chenin Blanc and SA has the biggest planting of this variety in the world. Also 95% of SA wines are produced within a 150 km radius of Cape Town. But its whats in the bottle. Lets find out.

2017 Badenhorst “Secateurs’ Chenin Blanc (Swartland)
Chenin Blanc needs a warm climate to flourish. The aromas were flinty with honey, orange blossom and white stone fruit notes. Rich, ripe and tropical but also fresh and clean to keep it all balanced. $24.50. WC 17/20.

2016 Alheit Vineyards ‘Cartology’ Chenin Semillon (Western Cape)
A spicy, complex, naturally fermented blend of Chenin with 11% Semillon, showing stony minerality and notes of aniseed and honey. The finish is long and refreshing. Needs time and improved greatly after 30 mins in the glass. $65.00. WC 17/20.

2017 Wightam Gouws & Clarke Pinotage (Swartland)
On the nose, cherry and strawberry, herbs and spice. The palate was lightweight (alcohol is 12%) dry on the back palate, sweet up front, stalkey with rhubarb overtones. $27.50. WC 14/20.

2016 David & Nadia Pinotage (Swartland)
Darker in colour, but sour sweet dry finish, fruit disappears quickly on the back palate, nice cherry overtones though.  Tasted OK after opening out. $44.00. WC 15/20.

 

2016 David & Nadia Grenache (Swartland)
Very pale and  sweet, almost strawberry jam, on the nose. A bit of spice but sour fruit. Totally away from an Australian Grenache style. $66.00. WC 13/20

2015 Badenhorst Family Red (Swartland)
A blend consisting’52% Shiraz, 21% Grenache, 18% Cinsault, 9% Tinta Barocca. Dark colour with consistent hue. Plenty of                                                                                       grunt but not fruit explosion despite a modest alcohol of 13% and in need of a year or three to settle down. $55.00. WC 16/20.
PS: I was interested reading the back label which exclaimed:
“Don’t drink and walk on the road you may be killed”

2016 Alheit Flotsam & Jetsam Cinsault
A grape variety that has been in SA for a long tome. Made from 40 year vines on sandy soils. Fresh in colour. juicy and bright. Not a serious wine showing predominately spice, Stinky nose.$29.00 WC 14/20.

Summary
I don’t want to upset you but I just could not get into the Pinotage wines presented. The treatment of this variety continues on a long and winding road to quality. The Chenin Blanc and Chenin blend were delightful but the price point delivers much better value from the Loire Valley and Australia. All were far too expensive for what you got!

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Two bargain reds BUY NOW!

I want to introduce you to two absolute bargain buys that represent real value for money with extraordinary quality.

2016 Aradon Rioja Tempramillo Garnacha
This rich unmistakable Spanish Rioja has those unmistakable fine soft tannins of Tempranillo with flavours that fill the mouth with fleshy ripe dark berry fruit and plum. It is balanced by more earthy savoury notes. It is a fabulous match to hearty casseroles and spicy sausages. 13.5%
It is a real steal at just $10 per bottle of $8.99 by the case. WC 18.5/20.
BUY NOW. Vintage Cellars, First Choice

 

2015 Serafino Cabernet Sauvignon
Trophy – Best Cabernet – McLaren Vale Wine Show 2017
Trophy – Best Icon Wine – McLaren Vale Wine Show 2016
Best McLaren Vale Cabernet – Cabernet Challenge 2017
Top 100 Wine – Sydney International Wine Show 2018
Ten Gold medals from all over the place.
This is unbelievable. Deep colour, cedar, violet and blackberry aromas with a high note of fresh herbs, the palate rich with soft tannins. Full bodied and not for the faint hearted. Will bring you right back to this beautiful grape variety. Great value. Drinks well now but will cellar to 20+ years.  An outstanding multiple gold-medal cabernet. 14.5%.
A real bargain for $23.00 per bottle.  WC 19/20
BUY NOW. CloudWines or almost every where.

Enjoy

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