TheWineCommander

In part 3 of this special 6 part series on Wynn’s Black label Cabernet we traced the vineyard production across the decades.  

Now in part 4 here are the tasting notes 1954 – 1975. Score out of 100 follow each of the tasting notes of each vintage. 

Look for years you have in your cellar.

1954
This had been a revelation at the 50th tasting and proved so again at the 60th anniversary  even though it is now coming to the end of its life. Very mature yet with some depth.  Beef stock and dusty earth notes with the palate, even exhibiting a little chocolate.  It did fade rather quickly in the glass, but while it was with us, amazing old wine.  89

1955  (Cabernet/Shiraz)
One of the duds of the tasting.  Deep color, but after that, dull, short, and seemingly impacted by a substandard cork. Past.

1956  (Cabernet/Shiraz)
A complete and complex wine.  Dark fruits, spices, light chocolate dusting.  Fine tannin’s and offering ideal balance for such an old wine.  There is good length, but at the very end, a slight stewed/sour-fruit note and even a hint of mint.  90

1957
Opening with a delightfully alluring aroma, gentle florals, choc-mint and earthy notes.  Reasonable length, with quite fine tannins, but it did not maintain the very intensity throughout and did fade.  88

1958
Dark colors with a brown/teak edge.  This is a traditional old-fashioned Aussie-style red, a touch porty.  Chocolate and hazelnut notes.  Some plushness, but it did become tough going and a little chunky. Nose promised more than the palate delivered.  88

1959
This was not just the wine of the decade but one of the best at the 60th vertical. Dry herbs, animal hides, red fruits, though  past any primary characters.  A lovely dusty, smokey note.  Some sweetness remains on the palate, which moves to chocolate and coffee characters.  Still offers power and length.  97

1960
It drank well at the earlier 50th tasting but really shone here.  Lovely aromas, a mature wine but very much alive.  A refined, elegant style, and one with complexity. Choc/cherry notes, tobacco leaf, dry herbs.  A very, very long finish, during which it maintained its intensity.  Glorious stuff.  93

1962
First impression was that it did not have quite the same class as 1960, but with time in the glass it became more and more intriguing.  Earth, forest notes, handfuls of dirt, dry vegetation, old cigars and animal skins.  Good length  to a slightly puckering finish.  94

1964
Quite fleshy and generous.  There is mint here.  Dry herbs, prunes, oriental spices, and a stone-fruit character more akin to Cote Rotie.  Over time,  peaches-and-apricot character emerged. Maintained both its intensity and its elegance. But anyone blessed with a bottle, drink it shortly after opening and you will be delighted.  90

1965
There is a degree of plushness here, with notes of bananas, smokiness, stewed plums.  It is too short, falling over quite quickly, but before then it shows no real varietal or regional character, it drinks nicely.  Just don’t wait around. 86

1966 (magnum)
Mature rim surrounds dark red hues.  Cassis, dark berry notes, spices, hints of dark chocolate.  All rather thrilling.  This is an impeccably balanced wine, completely comfortable.  Good length and grip. It continued to improve in the glass for a considerable period. 96

1967
Appealing coffee-bean notes, dark fruits, and complexity.  Nicely balanced and well focused.  It opens with good length and intensity and, drunk immediately, would definitely impress.  But with time in the glass, it did start to fade rather quickly. 90

1968
Some lovely truffley, fungal notes, a hint of mint, coffee beans, roast meats, an aroma one might encounter the moment you step through the door of your favorite delicatessen.  Balance, yes, but what impresses is the real elegance of the wine. Impressive length.  A wine that, despite its age, would seem to have a future. 95

1969 Cabernet Hermitage
This wine was the forerunner to the Red Stripe red, and while the ’68 may have transformed opinions of it, not so here.  Both were tired, a touch of oxidation.  There were some dark, raisiny notes, dark chocolate, but it faded quickly.  No finish.  82

1970
A wine that comes across as mature in every way. And  she does not have long.  Some cloves, fungal notes, meaty touches.  This is pleasant at best.  87

1971
A vintage famous for producing one of the all-time great Granges, and it seems quality was wide spread that year.  A wine that shone at both the 50^th and 60^th tastings.  Depth of color, seamless, plush, and firmly balanced.  Cassis and cigar box  notes.  Concentration, power, and a real future.  94

 1972
A curious wine –  all over the place.  Soy sauce, mushrooms, sarsaparilla, even a caramel note.  Some grip but a hot finish.  Some appealing flavors, but not the requisite balance.  87

1973
Inevitably, some wines were going to be well past their best, and this was one of them.  Comfortable as old slippers and quite mature, but a softer style that faded a little too quickly. Forgettable.  Past 

1974
This brings to a close a trio of vintages that were considered undistinguished at best.  This wine lacked focus.  An older and slightly dilute wine that drifted away before one had much of a chance to get to know it. Finishes with a slight vegetal note,  Past

1975
The 1970’s took a turn for the better with this vintage. Mature color and with aromas of boot leather and oriental spices.  Christmas cake, tobacco leaf, a hint of chocolate, and some cigar-box notes.  Seamless, with good concentration.  A lovely, seemingly creamy texture.  Fine tannins. Impressive wine that got better and better.  94

 In part 5 review the tasting notes of vintages 1976 – 1997.

In part 2 we looked at the early history of Wynns Coonawarra Estate. In this segment we review the vineyard across the decades.

PART 3.

The 1950s  Not only was 1954 the first vintage, but it was also the year that the Johnson Vineyard was planted, now the oldest-surviving Cabernet vineyard in Coonawarra.

The ‘50s were tough going – only one other winery and not a single wine labelled Coonawarra, until Wynns adopted the region’s name.  Ian Hickinbotham, the first winemaker described the region at the time as “the stink of failure”.  In those days, much of the transport was still by bullocks.

Vintage extended for a longer period back then (thank climate change), meaning that with a single picking, a mix of unripe, ripe, and overripe grapes arrived at the winery.  Picking is much more selective these days. The early Wynns winemakers were some of the first winemakers in the world to understand malolactic fermentation.  (Ray Beckwith at Penfold’s was arguably the first).  It has often been said that without Beckwith, there would never have been Grange.)

There were some good vintages in the ‘50s – 1954, 1955, and 1959 especially, although both times the ’55 fell well short.  1957 was the coldest growing season in 60 years. 1954 showed superbly on both occasions, while 1959 was sublime at the 60^th, far better than a decade earlier. In part 4 you can check out the tasting notes of these wines tasted in 2018.

The 1960s   Neither 1961 (frost) nor 1963 (wet) were made, though interestingly, Mildara’s Coonawarra Cabernet from 1963 is a legendary wine that had been nicknamed “Peppermint Patty.” The decade was warmer than the ‘50s but cooler than subsequent decades.  It was a decade when Wynns took the opportunity to buy as much vineyard land as they could – there were still only the two wineries in the district.  There was still no electricity at the winery.  1968 is thought to be the first vintage to see the use of American oak.  At the time, the best years were considered to be 1960, 1966 and 1967.

What was curious about this decade was that at the tasting, (see part 4), these wines changed far more in glass than those from either the ‘50s or 70’s.

The 1970s  This was the wettest decade of the lot, and Wynns was working with only young vineyards, because much of the land purchased during the expansion of the ‘60s was coming into production.  Wynns now had 214 ha (530 acres) of which 42 percent was Cabernet.  Far too many wines were decidedly green. Show judges had seen plenty of green Bordeaux around this time and, for reasons best known to themselves, decided this must be the future, and so grapes were often picked while unripe, herbaceous being the order of the day.

Leafy canopies, with the onset of mechanical harvesting in 1974, did not help.  Machine pruning followed in 1979.  A white-wine boom meant much of the famed terra rossa was grafted over to whites – at this time, 50 percent of it was planted to Riesling. In the winery, stainless-steel fermenting tanks had arrived, and puncheons were used for aging.  Small oak was not introduced until 1985, thanks to it’s winemaker at that time John Wade.  One ray of sunshine was the 1976 winning the Jimmy Watson Trophy, the first time a Coonawarra wine achieved the feat.  1970, 1971, 1975, 1976, and 1978 were all considered good years.

The 1980s  Things were improving as many vines started reaching maturity.  Wynns purchased another 200 ha (500 acres), while Penfold’s purchased Wynns (and they have formed part of the corporate dance through a series of owners ever since).  A visit by UK Masters of Wine  considered to have such a positive impact on the UK market for Australian wineries, took place in 1985, helping to give the region an international focus.

Use of smaller barrels and barrel fermentation increased, and much greater emphasis was placed on pH.  This was the decade when Wynns finally got serious about viticulture.  1980, 1986, and 1988 were considered the top years.  1982 was special as well, and even the “biblical year” of 1983 performed admirably – biblical due to pretty much everything being thrown at it, notably horrendous bushfires, tornadoes, and floods.

 The 1990s  The pendulum had swung, and the demand was for more full-bodied reds – indeed, Sue Hodder who took over in 1993 noticed that when she first took over from Douglas, she felt obligated to make monsters.  Not really Coonawarra’s thing, but winemakers did their best to comply.  Wynns purchased another 300 ha (750 acres) in 1993 and, by 1996, boasted 1,275 ha (3,150 acres) which 428 ha (1,050 acres) were Cabernet.

The 1998 label

Winery capacity was increased to the extent that they could store 2,000 barrels and had capacity for 3,400 tons on skins.  Yields varied between 3 and 6-7 tons per hectare.  Sue believes four to six is ideal.  In the early part of the decade, some American oak was still being used.  By the end, between 20 percent and 25 percent of the wine saw new oak barrels.  Peter Douglas would argue that 1990 was the vintage of the century, though plenty would make that claim for 1991. 1996, 1998, and 1999 were all superb too.  1995 was considered the least good year of the decade, but even it has more than outperformed the hype.

By 1998, Wynns was producing 80,000 cases of Black Label Cabernet, though that number has decreased in recent years, depending on the vintage.  Unfortunately, Wynns is a little less forthcoming with some information than they once were – a sign of the times?

The 2000s and on  Much of the work done during this period has been in the vineyards, and it showed in the wines, with this bracket the finest of the tasting. (I will feature the tasting notes on the 2000’s in part 6). Balance is the key, and it is what the team seeks, with the proviso that “vintage trumps everything.”  Much work has been done on the characters derived from individual vineyards, not least with the release of the Single Vineyard Series, which varies from year to year, depending on vineyard performance.  The average age of vines is around 30 years.

There were some numerous good vintages throughout this period, or perhaps work in the vineyard and winery have simply meant that poor ones are far less likely to slip through.  In days gone by, one suspects they would never have attempted a wine from the horrible 2011, but they actually made an amazing release.  The best? 2004, ’06, ’08, ’10, ’12, ’14, and finally cracking the even-year curse, 2015.

Black Label remains Wynns most important wine and surely the most important wine from Coonawarra. I believe many would argue it is the most important Cabernet in Australia.  It is also a serious contender for best bargain to be found anywhere.  Recommended retail in Australia is A$45, but can be picked up at liquor chains for under $30 per bottle.

.The winemakers
1951-53 Ian Hickinbotham
1954-58 Norm Walker
1961-68 Jock Redman
1971-77 Ken Ward
1978-85 John Wade
1986-97 Peter Douglas
1989-95 Peter Bissell
1993-present Sue Hodder
1998-present Sarah Pidgeon

 In part 4 we start the tasting notes of Wynns Black Label between  1954 – 1975 I hope you have some of these gems in your cellar!  

If you do then these are the ultimate tasting notes done in 2018.

In part one of this special series we looked at the early history of Coonawarra. In this post we briefly look at the early history of Wynn’s Coonawarra Estate.  

PART TWO

When 21-year-old Shlomo Weintraub fled Russian-occupied Poland for Australia, just before World War 1, it is doubtful anyone could have guessed how important he would be to the Australian wine industry.  If the name Redman is a nice coincidence for a winemaker, Shlomo was even more blessed: Weintraub is the German word for wine grape.  Shortly after arriving, however, Shlomo changed his name to Samuel Wynn, apparently not realizing that wynn was an Old English word for wine.

Fast-forward many years, and we find Samuel running a wine bar in Melbourne, where he regularly served Coonawarra red – purchased via Woodley’s, who bottled some of the Redmans’ wine under the St Adele label and sold the rest on to customers – so he knew the region’s potential.

Samual Wynn aged 28

The media-friendly story was that Samuel, purchased the Estate to save the iconic buildings and vineyards, but  Patricia Wynn, the widow of David Wynn, Samuel’s son (yet another to make an extraordinary contribution to the development of the region), believes that is not so.

Patricia claimed that Samuel was strongly opposed to the purchase and that it was David who was the driving force: “Sammy was violently against it.  David had a will of iron, and he fought his father tooth and nail.  He was convinced of the future of wine in Coonawarra.”

The fact that David immediately took over the reins supports this.  Straightaway he appointed another famous name in Australian wine making, Ian Hickingbotham, as winemaker/manager.

Ian’s view of David’s decision to purchase the estate was that it was “courageous,” though at the time he did have to fly to Melbourne to help convince David to buy it.

David also received a telegram from his father: “Admire your courage.”  Len Evans described David as “the man who really put Coonawarra on the map. Ian, in his book Australian Plonky, suggests that the David/Samuel debate may have been more about price with David upping the offer without consulting Samuel.

Ian describes his innovative wine making in some depth in the book, as well as including anecdotes such as the local agent describing a stockman’s dinner with a a horse’s hoof protruding from the pot.

The first Wynns wine was a 1952 claret, again Shiraz, made with no electricity, rather a basic generator, and steam-driven pumps.  Pruning was done by Ian’s mates from the local footy club.  This was the time when the famous label was designed by Richard Beck.  Norm Walker, yet another luminary in the Aussie wine firmament, took over in 1954 and made the first Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet, from 7 tons purchased from local growers.  The grapes were bought from a local Italian share farming family, who sold Wynns 300 tons but only 7 tons were Cab.

There was also a claret and a Hermitage from that vintage, both likely to be all or mostly Shiraz.  In those days, unfinished wines were the norm for wine shows, and Walker had two batches of his first Cabernet in oak (1000-gallon vats).  Unsure of which way to go, he entered both in the Adelaide show Claret Class, winning first and second prize.

The 1955 and 1956 releases were both blends, 80 percent Cabernet and 20 percent shiraz, before the wine reverted to 100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon – the only exception since then being the 1969, a Cabernet Hermitage.  In those days, the black label was actually white.  It was only in 1965 that the move to the traditional black was made.  (It was also with this wine that the label recorded the variety as Cabernet Sauvignon, rather than Cabernet.) 

In part three of this special series lets check out the various eras of Wynn’s Black Label Cabernet production.

In celebration of Wynnsday celebrated on the first Wednesday each year in August, enjoy a six part series tracing the history, the eras and tasting notes on Wynns Coonawarra flagship Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon.

PART ONE

I enjoyed a great article in Wine Spectator magazine about Wynns Coonawarra and agree with them that Wynn’s is without question the most important winery in Coonawarra.   While the John Riddoch Cabernet and Michael Shiraz are supposedly its prestige release,   I believe it is its Black Label Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon that is its most recognised and most loved wine in Australia.

It’s always excellent value, and there can hardly be a serious cellar in Australia without a few vintages tucked away.  It was first made in 1954 and last year saw the 60^th release with the 2015 vintage.  To celebrate the occasion, Wynns held an extraordinary tasting, showing every Black Label ever made — all 60!  They had done a similar exercise to celebrate 50 vintages in 2004. We will look at that in parts 4, 5 and 6 of this special series.

 
But first, in this part lets look at the history of the region itself.
 Coonawarra itself consists some 5,700 ha (14,000 acres). It sits on a long, thin, very, very flat cigar-shaped piece of rich red terra rossa soil. It is one of the very few wine regions on the world that is not, specifically a tourist destination. You go to Coonawarra to taste the wines. It is also cold (or “cool to moderate”). The climate is actually quite similar to that of Bordeaux – just a little warmer and with less rain during the growing season.

It is the terra rossa soil that has made the region famous.  The strip, a little under 30 km long and 2 km wide, is ideally suited to Cabernet. The soil sits on a bed of porous limestone, which assists with winter drainage and summer moisture retention. Located in the very southeastern part of South Australia, it is nearly equal distance between Melbourne and Adelaide.

In 1852, a young Scot named John Riddoch traveled to the goldfields of Victoria.  He soon realised that there was far more money to be made in providing goods and services to the miners.  Within a decade, he had left the goldfields with his profits and purchased a large sheep property near Penola in South Australia, called Yallum Estate.

Wool prices in America were booming, but Riddoch had always believed his property was suitable for more than sheep. In 1890 he formed the Penola Fruit Company.  The following year, Riddoch had 400 ha (1000 acres) of the property surveyed into blocks of between 10 ha and 50 ha (25-125 acres) and he planted his first vines.  He planted mostly Shiraz with some Cabernet. He later added a little Malbec and some Pinot Noir.

1895 saw the first Coonawarra vintage, just over 8,000 litres. Riddoch wanted to make a statement with his winery, so in 1897 he had built what has become one of the most iconic sights in Australia – the unmistakable treble-gabled limestone cellars that have since adorned the label of many hundreds of thousands Wynns labels and still stand proudly as a symbol of the region. (see left).

At the time, they were intended to hold around 350,000 litres. Bizarrely, the vines in front of them were not Cabernet; they are not even red.  Rather, they were Pedro Ximenez, planted in 1917, an era when table wines had fallen out of favour.  Vintage in 1897 was around 90,000 litres.

Riddoch suggested the town change its name to Coonawarra, and the company did as well, becoming Coonawarra Fruit and Vine Growers’ Association.  Things were going well, and the leading local wine-growing magazine of the day reported that “Coonawarra claret is now being drunk throughout the district and it has ousted other brands.”  Sample consignments were sent to the UK.  The following year, Riddoch employed a full-time winemaker, Ewen McBain, who had graduated from Roseworthy College, established in 1883.

The tide turned a few years later. Riddoch passed away in 1901. Federation meant the removal of trade barriers between the colonies, now states.  Other regions, better known and long established were more competitive.  Coonawarra’s isolation has always been a problem when trying to attract workers and it was even worse back then.  The one positive for the region was that in 1901, a 14 year-old boy named Bill Redman started working at the winery.

Various wars did not help Coonawarra’s labour plight.  Desperate for a solution, Riddoch’s executors did the only thing they could:  they turned the extensive stock of fine but ultimately unsalable wine into brandy.  The distillery’s chimney still stands next to the winery today.

Chateau Tanunda, from the Barossa Valley, purchased the place to continue the distillation.  They, in turn, were taken over in 1921 by Milne & Co.  Until the mid-1940’s, almost all the grapes went to distillation, but not before a grape glut in the 1930’s led to a scheme whereby the government offered growers a subsidy to rip up their vines and convert their property into dairy farms.  By the end of the decade, only 240 ha (600 acres) of vines remained.

One winery from the region was attempting to hold the fort during this period —Woodley’s St Adele Claret— which was enjoyed both domestically and overseas, but a valiant search of the label would have told the drinkers of the day nothing at all about its origins.  Coonawarra was not mentioned.  Woodley’s played an important role in the region’s revival, much more so than most wine lovers might realise, for it was a man from Woodley’s who was to turn around the fortunes of Wynns and Coonawarra as a whole.

Tony Nelson, an Austrian-trained winemaker (his name having been anglicised), worked at Woodley’s winery in the foothills of the Adelaide Hills from 1940.  In 1946, for 9000 pounds he purchased the old Riddoch winery and accompanying 55 ha (136 acres) or more and renamed them Chateau Comaum.

The Redmans continued to work their own vineyards and winery but also assisted Nelson, producing the only table made wine in Coonawarra –  Redman’s Shiraz, mostly purchased in bulk by Woodley’s.  Finally, in 1951, they left to concentrate on their own wines (at the neatly names Rouge Homme winery), and Nelson was forced to put the property back on the market.

And so, in 1951, for the price of 22,000 pounds, the Melbourne-based wine merchant S.Wynn & Co purchased the old winery, cellars, distillery, 54 ha (133 acres) of vines, and 90 ha (222 acres) of pasture.  Australian wine would be forever changed.  At this time, Wynnes Coonawarra Estate (the first Australian winery to use the term “estate”), as it became known, was the only winery in the region other than the small operation at Rouge Homme.

In part two of this series lets look at the early history of Wynns Coonawarra Estate

Have you ever wondered just what it takes to become a Master of Wine – the highest accolade that can be achieved for those aspiring a career in the wine industry?

Well, over 160 students sat the theory and practical exams from 5 June to 8 June in London, San Francisco and Sydney. Over the four days students had three 12-wine blind tasting practical papers and five theory papers on the subjects of viticulture; vinification and pre-bottling procedures; handling of wines; the business of wine; and contemporary issues.

The first step is the stage 1 assessment, a one-day examination comprising a 12-wine blind tasting exam in the morning and a theory exam in the afternoon.

Students sat the stage 1 assessment on 4 June. Students can only progress to stage 2 of the MW study programme by successfully passing this assessment. The practical and theory exams form the second stage of the MW study programme. 

 Those who successfully pass the stage 2 theory and practical examinations progress to stage 3. This final stage of the MW study programme is the research paper.

The research paper forms the third part of the MW examination, and is written only after students have passed the theory and practical papers.

Candidates are able to propose wine-related topics from any area of the sciences, arts, humanities, social sciences or any other discipline. Candidates also have the freedom to choose the way that they explore their topic, as long as it enables them to provide a rigorous interpretation of the subject and to make a contribution to the understanding of the world of wine.

As these are written exam papers, I cannot understandably publish them under the rules of the Masters of Wine.

For your interest I can the reveal the practical and theory exam papers for 2018.

I have included the full list of wines which were blind or provided in conjunction with the exam papers.

                                              STAGE 1 ASSESSMENT 2018
THEORY PAPER
(TWO questions to be answered, ONE from Section A and ONE from Section B)
Section A
Paper 3
1. What factors should influence the choice of wine closures?
Section B
Paper 4
2. What matters more to consumers in today’s wine market; brand, varietal or appellation?
Paper 2
3. Examine the importance of temperature control at different stages for the vinification of red wine.

PRACTICAL PAPER
QUESTION 1
Wines 1-3 all come from the same country.
For all three wines:
a) Identify the country of origin. (15 marks)
For each wine:
b) Identify the region of origin as closely as possible. (3 x 8 marks)
c) Comment on the method of production, focusing on those elements that help determine the style of the wine. (3 x 12 marks)
QUESTION 2
Wines 4-7 all come from the same country and are made from different single grape varieties.
For all four wines:
a) Identify the country of origin. (20 marks)
For each wine:
b) Identify the origin as closely as possible, and the grape variety. (4 x 10 marks)
c) Comment on quality within the context of the region of origin. (4 x 8 marks)
d) Assess and describe the level of acidity. (4 x 2 marks)
QUESTION 3
Wines 8-10 are all made from the same grape variety but come from different countries.
For all three wines:
a) Identify the grape variety. (15 marks)
For each wine:
b) Identify the origin as closely as possible, commenting on how climate has affected the wine’s style. (3 x 10 marks)
c) Comment on commercial position. (3 x 7 marks)
d) Assess and describe the tannins. (3 x 3 marks)
QUESTION 4
Wines 11-12 come from the same region of origin and are made from the same grape variety.
For both wines:
a) Identify the grape variety and origin(s) as closely as possible. (24 marks)
For each wine:
b) Comment on maturity. (2 x 5 marks)
c) Comment on style. (2 x 4 marks)
d) State the level of residual sugar (g/l) and level of alcohol (% abv). (2 x 4 marks)

The blind wine lineup for this Stage were: 
1. Prosecco, Casa Vinicola Zonin S.p.A. San Leo, NV, Veneto, Italy 11%
2. Franciacorta, Berlucchi ’61 Brut Nature, 2009, Italy 12.5%
3. Lambrusco, Pruno Nero Dry Cleto Chiarli Modena, NV, Emilia Romagna Italy, 11%
4. Viura, Marques de Murrieta Capellania Blanco Reserva, 2013, Rioja, Spain 14%
5. Pale Cream Sherry Croft Original, Jerez, Spain 17.5%
6. Albariño, Pazo Senorans, 2016, Rías Baixas, Spain 13%
7. Chardonnay, Chivite Colección 125 Blanco 125 Special Edition, 2015, Navarra, Spain 13.5%
8. Joël and Clarisse Taluau-Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil l’expression, Cabernet Franc, 2016, Loire,
France 12.5%
9. Raats Family Cabernet Franc, 2015, Stellenbosch, South Africa 14%
10.Tabali Vetas Blancas Cabernet Franc, 2015, Limari Valley, Chile 14.5%
11. Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume, 2009, Rochefort sur Loire, France 13%
12. Domaine Vincent Careme, Le Clos, 2015, Vouvray, France 13%

                                             MASTER OF WINE EXAMINATION 2018
Practical Paper 1
Question 1
Wines 1-4 are all made from the same single grape variety.
With reference to all four wines:
a) Identify the grape variety. (20 marks)
For each wine:
b) Identify the origin as closely as possible. (4 x 10 marks)
c) Discuss quality with reference to winemaking techniques used. (4 x 10 marks)
Question 2
Wines 5-10 are all made from different single varieties and are from different countries.
For each wine:
a) Identify the grape variety. (6 x 7 marks)
b) Identify the origin as closely as possible. (6 x 8 marks)
c) Discuss quality with reference to winemaking techniques used. (6 x 10 marks)
Question 3
Wines 11-12 are made from the same single grape variety.
With reference to both wines:
a) Identify the grape variety. (10 marks)
For each wine:
b) Identify the origin as closely as possible. (2 x 8 marks)
c) Comment on wine making, quality and state of maturity. (2 x 12 marks)

The blind wine lineup for the practical Stage were: 
1. Chardonnay, Yellowtail 2017 South East Australia 13%
2. Chablis, Grand Cru Les Preuses, Domaine William Fèvre 2012 Burgundy, France 12.5%
3. Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay, Shafer Vineyards 2015 Napa Valley, California, USA 14.9%
4. Hunting Hill Chardonnay, Kumeu River 2015 Auckland, New Zealand 14%
5. Semillon, Lovedale, Mount Pleasant 2011 Hunter Valley, Australia 10%
6. Viña Gravonia, Lopez de Heredia Viña Tondonia 2007 Rioja, Spain 12.5%
7. Ried Lamm, 1, Gruner Veltliner, Schloss Gobelsburg 2016 Kamptal, Austria 13.5%
8. La Rocca, Soave Classico, Pieropan 2015 Veneto, Italy 13%
9. Old Vine Chenin Blanc, Raats 2017 Stellenbosch, South Africa 13.5%
10. Torrontés, Susanna Balbo 2016 Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina 13%
11. Kiedrich Gräfenberg, Riesling Trocken GG, Robert Weil 2016 Rheingau, Germany 13%
12. Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhof Riesling Auslese, Karthäuserhofberg 2007 Mosel, Germany 9%

Practical Paper 2
Question 1
Wines 1-5 all come from classic Western European origins.
For each wine:
a) Identify the origin as closely as possible making reference to the grape variety(ies) used. (5 x 10 marks)
b) Discuss quality within the context of the region of origin. (5 x 8 marks)
c) What has the winemaker done to maximise quality and regional typicity during the
wine making process? (5 x 7 marks)
Question 2
Wines 6-8 are made from the same single grape variety.
With reference to all three wines:
a) Identify the grape variety. (15 marks).
For each wine:
b) Identify the origin as closely as possible. (3 x 10 marks)
c) Discuss quality with reference to winemaking techniques used. (3 x 10 marks)
Question 3
Wines 9 and 10 are made from the same single grape variety and come from the same region.
With reference to both wines:
a) Identify the grape variety and origin, as closely as possible. (20 marks).
For each wine:
b) Discuss the wine’s quality within the context of the region of origin. (2 x 8 marks)
c) Comment on the winemaking techniques used. (2 x 7 marks)
Question 4
Wines 11 and 12 come from the Americas.
For each wine:
a) Identify the grape variety(ies) used. (2 x 5 marks)
b) Identify the origin as closely as possible. (2 x 10 marks)
c) Discuss quality in relation to the region of origin. (2 x 10 marks)

The blind wine lineup for this Stage were: 
1. Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Lupi di Serene, Podere Le Ripi 2011 Tuscany, Italy 14.5%
2. Chambolle Musigny, Domaine Roumier 2014 Burgundy, France 13%
3. Côte Rôtie, La Landonne, Delas Frères 2012 N. Rhône, France 13.5%
4. Château Clos de Sarpe 2000 Saint Emilion, Bordeaux, France 13.5%
5. Baron de Ley, Gran Reserva 2011 Rioja, Spain 14%
6. Pinot Noir, Du MOL, 2015 Russian River Valley, California USA 14.1%
7. Pinot Noir, Felton Road 2016 Bannockburn, Central Otago, New Zealand 13.5%
8. Pinot Noir Reserve, Argyle 2015 Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA 14.1%
9. Syrah, Te Mata Estate 2016 Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand 12.5%
10. Syrah, Homage, Trinity Hill 2014 Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand 13.5%
11. Zinfandel, Old Vines, Ravenswood 2014 Lodi, California 14.5%
12. Cabernet Sauvignon, Viñedo Chadwick 2014 Puente Alto, Maipo, Chile 13.5%

Practical Paper 3
Question 1
Wines 1-6 are presented as pairs, 1 and 2, 3 and 4, and 5 and 6. Each pair is made by a different single producer.
For each pair:
a) Identify the origin, as closely as possible. (3 x 10 marks)
b) Comment on the key wine making techniques used. (3 x 12 marks)
c) Identify the vintage(s) and consider its/their key characteristics. (3 x 10 marks)
d) Discuss the quality and maturity of the wines. (3 x 18 marks)
Question 2
Wines 7-9 all come from the same country.
For each wine:
a) Identify the origin as closely as possible making reference to the grape variety(ies) used. (3 x 10 marks)
b) Discuss the quality in the context of the region of origin. (3 x 10 marks)
c) Comment on maturity. (3 x 5 marks)
Question 3
Wine 10-12 come from different countries and different single grape varieties (minimum 90%) that are associated with the Rhône Valley.
For each wine:
a) Identify the predominant grape variety used. (3 x 5 marks)
b) Identify the origin as closely as possible. (3 x 8 marks)
c) Comment on the style, quality and commercial potential. (3 x 12)

The blind wine lineup for this Stage were: 
1. Dom Pérignon, Moët & Chandon 1999 Champagne, France 12.5%
2. Dom Pérignon, Moët & Chandon 2009 Champagne, France 12.5%
3. Château Coutet 2002 Sauternes-Barsac, Bordeaux, France 14%
4. Château Coutet 2013 Sauternes-Barsac, Bordeaux, France 13.5%
5. Taylor’s Vintage 1985 Douro, Portugal 20.5%
6. Taylor’s Vintage 2009 Douro, Portugal 20.5%
7. Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 2010 Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France 14%
8. Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc, Domaine Bousquet des Papes 2014 Rhône, France 13.5%
9. Saint-Romain, Sous le Château, Olivier Leflaive 2015 Burgundy, France 13%
10. Cinsault, Bechthold Vineyard, Birichino 2016 Lodi, California, USA 12.5%
11. La Garnacha de Mustiguillo, Toni Sarrión 2015 El Terrerazo, La Mancha, Spain 14%
12. Bandol, Château de Pibarnon 2013 Provence, France 14%

Theory papers
THEORY PAPER 1 – Viticulture
THREE questions to be answered, ONE from Section A and TWO from Section B.
Section A
1. Many wine regions can produce wines at a wide range of price points. Referencing at least two of such regions, compare and contrast methods of managing vineyards for high priced wines and low priced wines.
2. Referencing at least three wine regions, discuss how climate change is influencing grape growers’ viticultural practices.
Section B
3. Identify the most important trunk diseases in vineyards around the world. How can they be best controlled and managed?
4. Is the use of cover crops worthwhile in viticulture?
5. What is the role of pruning when managing an established vineyard?
6. Old vines have a mystique to them. What are the practical challenges and solutions to maintaining vineyards of old vines?

THEORY PAPER 2 – Vinification and Pre-bottling Procedures
THREE questions to be answered, ONE from Section A and TWO from Section B.
Section A
1. Examine the advantages and disadvantages of deliberate stem inclusion, or additions, during the wine making process.
2. Compare and contrast wine making techniques for “high end” and “entry level” Chardonnay in at least two regions.
Section B
3. Write concise notes on four of the following
– Lysozyme
– Mannoprotein
– CMC – Carboxymethyl cellulose
– Copper sulphate
– Ascorbic acid
– YAN – Yeast assimilable nitrogen
4. What are the critical wine making considerations for a producer of inexpensive off-dry still white wines?
5. Which wine making decisions affect the ageing potential of a finished wine?
6. How and to what extent can a winemaker influence the textural profile of a wine?

THEORY PAPER 3 – Handling of Wines
Answer TWO questions from the FOUR listed below
1. How does a laboratory analysis of a wine help the quality control manager make decisions at bottling?
2. Describe the options available for bulk transport of wine. What are the risks and benefits for each option?
3. What technical factors influence the choice of a closure for wine bottles?
4. Detail the advantages and disadvantages of the following methods of clarifying a wine:
a. Earth filtration
b. Pad filtration
c. Membrane filtration
d. Crossflow filtration

THEORY PAPER 4 – THE BUSINESS OF WINE
THREE questions to be answered, ONE from Section A and TWO from Section B.
Section A
1. What have been the most important changes in global wine supply and demand in the past three years and what are their implications?
2. What are the advantages and disadvantages of private-label wines for wineries, distributors and retailers?
Section B
3. How important are environmental credentials in marketing wine?
4. Where are direct to consumer wine sales increasing and why?
5. There has been a great deal of innovation in packaging design and formats in other alcoholic beverage categories. Why has the wine industry been slow to follow suit? Should it follow?
6. Evaluate the extent to which scarcity/rarity is a positive attribute in wine marketing.

THEORY PAPER 5 – CONTEMPORARY ISSUES
TWO questions to be answered, ONE from Section A and ONE from Section B.
Section A
1. Can wine be considered a social good?
2. How can the wine industry attract new consumers?
Section B
3. If a global disease were destroying all known grape varieties and you had the chance to preserve only two varieties – one white and one black – for humanity, which would you choose to save, and why?
4. Is elitism an inherent problem in the world of wine?
5. Do wine consumers need wine experts?

 SO THERE YOU ARE.  HOW DID YOU FARE? 

Let me know!