I recently was fortunate to enjoy a challenge tasting of Burgundy verses Barolo. Three flights and a bonus Barolo were poured each consisting the classic grape varieties of Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir.
First lets broadly refresh ourselves of these two varieties.
Pinot noir is the premium red wine grape of Burgundy It is now found in all manner of vineyards, from western Germany and northern Italy to Chile, South Africa, Australia and, perhaps most notably, California, Oregon and New Zealand.
It causes more discussion and dispute than any other grape variety – most of which centres around finding and describing the variety’s “true” expression. Examples from northern Italy are undeniably different from those made on the other side of the world.
My favourite region is Central Otago in NZ where they have intense fruit explosion and a long lingering balanced finish on the palate. But you cannot deny the softer beautiful perfumed Burgundian style – if you can afford them. Certainly most Australian pinots are grossly over priced. I guess to pay for the flash cellar doors they possess.
Yet from most countries they are all unmistakably, unquestionably pinot noir. It takes a great deal of care and skill to make pinot perform The results vary wildly from watery, acidic candy water to some of the richest, most intensely perfumed wines on earth. This elusive perfection has earned the variety obsessive adoration from wine lovers all over the world.
Barolo is a traditional hillside village in the rolling hills of Piedmont, north western Italy. Nebbiolo is the name of the grape that Barolos and Barbarescos are made from. Though small amounts of Nebbiolo are grown all over the world, it’s mostly found in the Piedmont region. Within Piedmont are two wine-producing zones called Barolo and Barbaresco, Both are made from the Nebbiolo grape. A wine may be labeled as a Nebbiolo if it’s made in a region outside Barolo and Barbaresco that permits varietal labeling.
Nebbiolo and the wines of Barolo and Barbaresco are distinguished by their strong tannins, high acidity and distinctive nose. (refer to my earlier blog on Italian grape varieties). The wines can be a highly tannic and have a reputation for aging well. Barolo is the more massive, tannic and rich of the two, while Barbaresco is more elegant and approachable.
Barolo requires wines be stored for 3 years before release, whereas Barbaresco only requires 2 years. This could be because of the high tannins in Barolo that require the wine to age longer before being put on the market. Aging does more than just reduce tannins though, it also changes the way the fruit flavours taste in a wine. Barolo is released after 3 years, Barolo Riserva 5 years, Barbaresco 2 years and Barbaresco Riserva 4 years. Always double check the year on the label. Barolo is the king of the Nebbiolo variety!
NOW LETS LOOK AT THE CHALLENGE FINDINGS.
(All are readily available and start from $25 per bottle)
2013 Domaine Collotte ‘Les Boivins’ Marsannay
Marsannay is the most northern appellation of the Cote de Nuits sub-region of Burgundy. Encompassing the villages of Marsanny-la-Cote, Chenove and Couchey, the communal appellation is unique in Burgundy for covering red, white and rose wine. This wine was from 45 year old vines located higher on the slope. It was ruby red in colour and slightly closed with cherries, petals and vanilla peeping through. It finished clean and soft but did open out after a good shake up.
Wine Commander score 17.5 out of 20
2014 G.D. Vajra, Langhe Rosso (Nebbiolo)
Typical Piemontese characters and everyday affordability will make Vajra’s Langhe Rosso wines an excellent entry to the Barolos style.
It is a blend predominately Nebbiolo with Dolcetto, and Barbera, Medium ruby in colour and slightly deeper than the 2013 above. Complex nose of stone fruit, nice cherry overtones and was long and balanced. Yumm.
WC 18/20
2009 Drouhin Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru
Chambolle-Musigny is a tiny commune in the Cote de Nuits sub-region of Burgundy. It has a population of fewer than 400. The village produces almost exclusively red wines from Pinot Noir.
The colour was slightly brown to the rim, and had a typical French Burgundy nose which cleared after 10 mins or so. Good balance and a smooth finish. Long after taste, with notes of cherry, mushroom and forest floor, Best so far. WC 19/20
2012 Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco Docg
Trellised on steep slopes halfway up the hill dominating the principal valley of Barolo lie this precious jewel from the 15th century. A tiny production of 400 cases. Deep red garnet colour to the rim, A bouquet with traces of licorice and tobacco. A full flavored, full-bodied and elegant wine. Cherries and chocolate.This will go for 20 years.
WC 19.5. Sensational.
2007 Mongeard Mugneret Grand Cru Clos De Vougeot
Clos de Vougeot is one of the most famous grand cru vineyards in Burgundy. It is the largest grand cru site in the Cote de Nuits region, covering 50 hectares of land. Clos de Vougeot is is divided into 100 different parcels owned by more than 80 different producers. and the wines made here vary considerably in character and quality. This wine was selected from the very best plots. I found a pure bright deep red colour with slight browning on the edge. truly stunning. Forest floor, mushrooms and leather on the nose and the finish revealed the complex nature of Burgundy – all that is good with Pinot noir. Very expressive.
WC 19.5/20
2005 Conterno Romirasco Barolo DOCG
This 2005 Barolo embodies everything a great Barolo should be. It has awesome density and richness showing plum, dried fruit and a long palate that lingers on the back. Make no mistake, this is a big robust, heavy weight wine that will last another 15 – 20 years. It actually comes across as exceedingly young and remember some bottle age is essential in order to enjoy a Barolo at its very finest.
WC 19.5/20
1997 Vajra Barolo Bricco Delle Viole DOCG
Intense deep blood red. Complex yet slightly tight closed nose showing mushroom and dark cherries. Bit of licorice here too. Finished with firm but integrated tannins, persistent fruit and excellent long lingering finish. Go another 10 years.
WC 19.5/20
Summary
A very interesting exercise. It proves to get the best Burgundy’s you must pay a much higher price than the ones tasted here. By contrast you can pick up an excellent regional Nebbiolo starting from around $22. Dal Zotto Wines in the King Valley is a good place to start your Nebbiolo experience. But the best Nebbiolo will always come from Barolo.
Drink plenty of good wine in 2018 and experiment with different grape varieties! Enjoy.
