Pinotage became a unique South African grape variety when a Professor of viticulture at Stellenbosch University crossed the varieties of Pinot and cinsault (Shiraz). But it took until 1941 until the first Pinotage wine was made. Some international acclaim was made in 1959 and because of that vast plantings were made but alas most struggled with the variety. Two British MW’s visited the Cape in 1976 and declared the variety had no future, so many producers uprooted large plantings of exisiting vines while only a few struggled on. With this brief introduction lets see what I discovered.
Constantia
Our first stop. Constantia is a well-known wine-producing area and one of the oldest in the southern hemisphere. It is home to at least ten vineyards known locally as farms. Groot vineyard was planted in (yes) 1685 but as was explained the terrior is not really suited to Pinotage. However I did taste the 2022 Pinotage which was thin, with sharp tannins and a smelly strawberry taste. no score. My disappointment was noted so a 2012 was opened which was a revelation. Deep red in colour, slightly smokey and still forward with plum and vanilla, spice on the palate and smooth finish. 94/100. A$n/a. 2023 Sauvignon Blanc. As you know I generally can’t stand this style but what a surprise! Unlike the grassy versions from down under this showed gooseberries, peach and kiwi fruit. It was rich with crisp, fresh acidity. Absolutely delightful.93/100. A21.00.
Stark-Conde.
A local friend and sommelier recommended this vineyard as the best producer of Cabernet in the Cape. This organic high altitude vineyard nestled beside a picturesque lake showed their Cabernet Sauvignon range inside an island tasting cabin. Nice start. (apologies for the brochure photo). South African Cabernet Sauvignon show the typical
profile flavours of black currant, cherry, a dust of pepper with hints of cedar and tobacco. The two standouts were 2022 Tree Pines Cabernet. Beautifully textured with a smooth silky structure and floral finish.95/100. A55.00. 2022 Oude Nektar Cabernet. From Stellenbosch’s highest (550m)vineyard. Beautiful aromas cassis, violets and orange. Robust with big gripping tannins, black fruit enhances the length. Not for the faint hearted. 97/100. $67.00
Neil Ellis
Neil Ellis began sourcing grapes in 1984 and now selects from 4 regions, Piekenierskloof, Groenekloof, Stellenbosch and Elgin. Big show with 15 wines for tasting and picking the eyes out was hard.
2020 Bottelary Pinotage. Was totally different to Constantia. Dark plum. young red berries, sharp. But is this pinotage? 88/100. $40.00. 2020 Stellenbosch Cabernet. Another cabernet of intense flavour of black berries, cedar and liquorice. Built to last and needs decanting. 92/100. A28.00. (Bargain). The 2022 Whitehall Chardonnay green fresh apples with cream went down well. 90/00. A35.00
Rustenberg Wines
Its first vintage was in 1781 and now make 20 different wines split into three distinct ranges. I just had to try the 2023 Stellenbosch Chenin Blanc – after all the Cape is renown for this variety. Distinct pineapple and pear finishing quite crisp and fresh. Nondescript. 89/100. A$12.00. 2021 Peter Barlow Cabernet from the Rustenberg site. Outstanding balance of oak which enhanced the fruit aromas and nice weight. Lovely. 90/100. A$68.00.
2022 Stellenbosch John X Merriman from the flagship range. A Bordeaux blend predominantly Cabernet and Merlot. I found plenty of cigar and tobacco through the palate and sour cherry overtones. Lingered and full mouth flavour and was nicely balanced. I was told to wait 15 years for this to blossom. Sorry can’t wait that long. 92/100. A$30.00. Bargain.
L’Avenir Estate
Headed here as it is renowned for its Pinotage and Chenin Blanc. Located on the slopes of the Simonsberg mountains. It is a big show with wine interests worldwide, located beside a lake with plenty of space and facilities for functions.
2022 Provenance Chenin Blanc. A blend from its 3 premium vineyards, straw in colour, peach and melon and crisp citrus finish. Nice. 92/100. A$16.00. 2021 Single Block Chenin Blanc. Generous in flavour that hangs around. Enjoy the toasty overtones if you dare but most agreeable. 91/100. A$45.00. 2022 Provenance Pinotage. Light in colour, dominated with cherries and soft everywhere. 88/100. A$18.00. 2022 Horizon Pinotage. Vines are trellised very low to the ground to develop thicker skins. Those cherries (again) dominated in a dusty, bitter flavour. 87/100. A$22.00. 2020 Single Block Pinotage. Deep colour. full of flavour, excellent balance through the palate. Nice oak and hints of spice. Loved it. 94/100. A$70.00. I must also say the 2023 Single Block Glenrose had Provence all over it. Brown onion skin colour, strawberries and raspberries made this a great Rose. 92/100. A$30.00.
Lanzerac Wine Estate
Home of the first bottled Pinotage in the world and combines a hotel with a wine estate. Spread over expansive grounds with magnificent vista, this is another big show – well most are. In 2017 a fire burnt down the main operations but is now bigger with a spa, hotel, restaurant and deli. But what of the wines?
2023 Pinotage Rose. Free run juice with pronounced perfume, rose petals and crushed strawberries. Not my bag. 89/100. $11.00. 2021 Pinotage. Deep colour and rich chocolate, with caramel and was juicy. Again a different slant on Pinotage. 90/100.S24.00. 2o20 Cabernet Sauvignon had hints of cocoa, but was also big, bold and spicy. Drink now style. 90/100. A$24.00.
Ernie Els Wines
Worth the visit just for the panoramic views of Cape Town and Table Mountain to the left, Stellenbosch and Helderberg mountains to the right plus a top class restaurant for lunch on the open deck. Only got to try two wines with lunch – the 2023 Big Easy Chenin Blanc a light and crisp, apple, pears, refreshing and uncomplicated. 92/100. A$14.50. And the 2022 Major Series Cabernet Sauvignon. Plenty of plum lurking with nice tannins with cassis and blackcurrant. Big and bold. 94/100. A$30.00.
Winemaker Elsa du Plessis shows her Pinotage.
Beyerskloof
The Queen of Pinotage generously showed me 5 wines, the best, from 4 ranges. 2022 Beyerskloof Pinotage. Deep ruby red with strong red berries and plum notes. Drinking well but not complex. 89/100. AS12.00. 2022 Reserve Pinotage. Dark red, toasty with excellent balance and a nice juicy after taste. 93/100. A$22.00. Bargain. 2022 Winemakers Reserve Pinotage. Complex, soft on the palate, nice balance and after taste gentle cherries and plum. 94/100. A$35.00. 2022 Kriekbult Pinotage. Nice aromas of red berries. Another with fine balance and lingering mouth feel. 90/100. A$50.00. 2022 Traildust Cape Blend of 33% Pinot Noir. 34% Pinotage and 33% Cinsaut. Again the trend of cherries and plum continue but this had a commercial feel about it being nondescript. 89/100. A$22.00. Chatting to Elsa there is no doubt she is passionate about Pinotage and its future having a consistent profile.
Kanonkop Wine Estate
Known in the Cape as the first growth wineyard. 2021 Paul Sauer Blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Full bodied as the depth of flavour offered by these 3 grapes shines through. Spent 24 months in new French oak before 12 months in the bottle before release. Black current notes and cigar box result in firm tannins and a lingering finish. Delicious. 95/100. A$90.00 and worth it. They heavily promote magnums all the way to Salmanazar (9 litres). Refer to pix.
Blaauwklippen
Located at the foothills of the Stellenbosch mountains the estate covers 115 acres. You can find accomodation, a market, bike path, gym and vineyards and wine. Twelve varieties in fact which have been planted since 1682. A Sauvignon Blanc 86/100 was cut grass, a Rose 84/100 tannic, lacked fruit, Zinfandel 86/100 sulphur, Cabernet 89/100 very sweet berries and finished dry. 2018 DBK Bordeaux Blend. Classic Bordeaux blend, full bodied, cigar box, plum and chocolate and excellent length but was green on the finish which spoilt the experience. 88/100. A$31.00. 2024 Chenin Blanc. Peach and lemon and even pineapple gave a tasty finish. 90/100. A$13.00. Reverted to a selection of 2 gins which with local tonic water made up for the visit.
Conclusion
I found the Pinotage a very mixed bag and lacked consistency in profile which made it hard to determine’ what is pinotage’? Conversely Chenin Blanc which is the most widely grown grape in SA basically varied between sweet and dry and could all be distinguished with its flavours of Granny Smith apple, pear and tropical fruit.
The Cape Dutch architecture and history of many of the winery estates was interesting in itself and the visas from them breathtaking and to the equal of any region in the world.
I recommend this destination for any bucket list.
Frebch oakand
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